Veemoney Posted March 8, 2022 Report Posted March 8, 2022 Interesting thread and some cool bikes. I like the bars on this one. Never got used to the shifter mount on the lower tube so most times I would just power through without shifting when possible. Quote
LazyK Posted March 9, 2022 Report Posted March 9, 2022 (edited) current road bike. got back in to cycling about 5 years ago after a 30 year hiatus. rode a Peugeot in the 70's and a Fugi in the 80's. Edited March 9, 2022 by LazyK 2 Quote
cheesy Posted March 9, 2022 Report Posted March 9, 2022 16 hours ago, Veemoney said: Interesting thread and some cool bikes. I like the bars on this one. Never got used to the shifter mount on the lower tube so most times I would just power through without shifting when possible. If I had any thumb shifters in my stash, this one would have them. OTOH, I grew up with downtube shifters, starting in the sixties, and can do double shifts with one hand. In my advanced age, though, all my dropped bar bikes would have bar end shifters. They are the catsass for touring. Not a fan of brifters, mostly because they are such a complicated system to do a simple task. Repair parts are almost unobtainium. It's usually replace, not repair. At least it was when I worked in a bike shop. 1 Quote
Veemoney Posted March 9, 2022 Report Posted March 9, 2022 Thumb shifters for me these days. I always enjoyed using the upper more relaxed position when riding the dropped bar bikes. The Schwinn Continental mounted the shifters on the neck making for an easy reach to them. Quote
cheesy Posted March 9, 2022 Report Posted March 9, 2022 2 hours ago, Veemoney said: The Schwinn Continental mounted the shifters on the neck making for an easy reach to them. We used to call those 'nut snaggers' when I worked in a bike shop. ? The top tube 'stick shifters' on Sting Rays had another name. 1 Quote
cheesy Posted March 19, 2022 Report Posted March 19, 2022 Moving right along with the Gitane track bike. Built the front wheel this morning. Finding a correct chain ring for the front will be the next challenge. Quote
cheesy Posted March 26, 2022 Report Posted March 26, 2022 Just about have this ready for that first ride. Just waiting on a nice day to be outdoors to wrap the bars. Quote
cheesy Posted March 26, 2022 Report Posted March 26, 2022 1 hour ago, Veemoney said: Your socks don't match? Yet both are Panaracer Pasela tires. 1 Quote
Ulu Posted March 30, 2022 Report Posted March 30, 2022 I bought this Nishiki for my wife in 1990. it has been a really good bicycle. I am building a little cart for it so she can go to the Savemart 1/2 mile away without taking the car. This is made from bits of a Harbor Freight torch cart that I bought for a utility cart in 2016. 2 Quote
Ulu Posted March 31, 2022 Report Posted March 31, 2022 I have decided that I am going to buy a bicycle for myself, but I don’t know whether I should buy new or used. There are a lot of cheap bicycles out there. Nowadays you can spend $1 million if you have $1 million to spend on a bicycle. I’m looking for something in the less expensive part of that spectrum. I will probably look for something on craigslist and polish it up myself. 1 Quote
cheesy Posted March 31, 2022 Report Posted March 31, 2022 I'd go used. My first choice would be to hit up a local thrift shop. Usually (usually) those bikes are priced to move, but you need to give them a serious once over and factor in new tires, brake pads, and cables. Second choice would be a local bike co-op, if you have one. Bikes there will have been gone through and usually have new tires and bits for a tad more money. Choice 2.5 would be a local bike shop that takes trade ins. I've scored a few nicer bikes that way. CL and police auctions would be my last choices for a used bike. Not saying you can't get a good deal, but the chance of getting screwed or ending up with junk is pretty high. If you want new and are slightly immune to sticker shock(Me in 1981-"It was only $350." My Dad-"Whadyamean, $350? Goddam thing doesn't even have a kickstand."), support your local bicycle shop. I used to wrench in a bike shop and bike set up done right takes time. You usually end up with a lifetime warranty on the frame and a year on components with a free tune after a 30 day break in period. Avoid Wally World and Tar-Jhay like the plague. Their bikes are very poor quality and just slapped together. After that, it's what kind of bike do you want. Though I still will ride a go fast bike, but as I'm closer to 70 than 60 now, I am content to watch the scenery go by on an old British 3 speed. 1 Quote
T120 Posted March 31, 2022 Report Posted March 31, 2022 Old British 3 Speed, Raleigh Superbe, I bought the bike at a yard sale in town. It was in my price range,($15.), needs new tires and a little TLC. It will provide me with some enjoyable light exercise and save on fuel costs on short trips. ? 2 Quote
Veemoney Posted April 1, 2022 Report Posted April 1, 2022 Ulu, That trailer needs some suspension I think to help the eggs over the bumps but looks like a great start. I made some good buys using CL, FB and Ebaa so I vote used as well. Plenty of folks buy them and after once or twice then they sit in a corner kind of like a treadmill. T120, That is a sweet ride you found. Does it have a generator or battery for the lights? Quote
cheesy Posted April 1, 2022 Report Posted April 1, 2022 3 hours ago, T120 said: Old British 3 Speed, Raleigh Superbe, I bought the bike at a yard sale in town. It was in my price range,($15.), needs new tires and a little TLC. It will provide me with some enjoyable light exercise and save on fuel costs on short trips. ? Wow. My Superbe was $15 but not that nice. Dynohub generator, self adjusting brakes, AND a Presstube rack. Does it have a locking fork? Date will be stamped on either hub. Dates may not match but they'll be close. My Superbe is from 1968. Because the output from the hub generator is only 1.8W, I highly recommend swapping the hard to find incandescent bulbs for LEDs. Down the road, swap out the heavy steel rims for Sun CR-18 aluminum EA3 rims. Just glancing, the rims look like 32 hole in the front and 40 in the rear, which is typical British. The Sun CR-18 rims are exactly the same ERD, so you'd just move the spokes over one at a time instead of relacing. As it looks bone stock, I'd swap out the 18 tooth cog on the rear wheel for at least a 20 tooth cog, preferably a 22. These were always geared too high, which is why they can be found in such nice shape. They were hard to ride. Again, great score. 1 Quote
Ulu Posted April 1, 2022 Report Posted April 1, 2022 13 hours ago, Veemoney said: Ulu, That trailer needs some suspension I think to help the eggs over the bumps but looks like a great start. I’m trying to keep it as light as possible so I will just have to teach my wife how to pack the groceries properly. 1 Quote
Ulu Posted April 1, 2022 Report Posted April 1, 2022 15 hours ago, T120 said: Old British 3 Speed, Raleigh . . . ? my first bicycle was the child’s version of the three speed Raleigh. It was given to me by an Air Force family that had recently returned from England and it was like brand new. I rode that bike one time, and I leaned it up against the garbage cans while I went in the house to take a leak. When I came out the garbage man had crushed it and taken it away in his truck. 1 2 Quote
Ulu Posted April 1, 2022 Report Posted April 1, 2022 (edited) 19 hours ago, cheesy said: I took a look at Wallmart type Chinese bikes a few years back when I was thinking about a bicycle for myself, but did not buy one. I could not believe how poorly built those bicycles were. I have never owned a brand new bicycle in my life, but I have owned used bicycles and ones that I put together, tuned up, refinished, customized, and modified. Because of the fine weather here lots of people buy bicycles. Because of laziness not many people ride them and so there’s a brisk market in used bikes here. I’m sure I will find something without too much trouble because I’m not that picky about what it is. I would certainly prefer the highest quality bicycle. I probably won’t ride it enough to justify that either. Edited April 1, 2022 by Ulu 2 1 Quote
cheesy Posted April 1, 2022 Report Posted April 1, 2022 42 minutes ago, Ulu said: I’m trying to keep it as light as possible so I will just have to teach my wife how to pack the groceries properly. I had two different bike trailers when my kids were little and neither had suspension. The balloon tires provide plenty of that. I built the first from plans in a Mother Earth News magazine in 1981. It wasn't that light but it towed great. I bought a Cannondale Bugger when their butts got too big for the home built. The C'dale also had a removable rain hood to keep the kidlets dry if I was dumb enough to take them out in the rain. Link to the home built. https://www.motherearthnews.com/diy/bicycle-trailer-zmaz81jazraw/ 1 Quote
Veemoney Posted April 1, 2022 Report Posted April 1, 2022 I assumed some rails would be in the plans to contain the load. Was thinking along the lines of a lawn chair cushion or foam at the bottom of the basket area to help absorb the bumps. Could even have plywood cut for the top of the foam if a firm surface is preferred. Another option would be a suspension system from the rails. Those baby trailers I've seen used suspended seats from the rail systems so the children are floating rather than sitting on the solid surface connected to the axle. That helps soften the ride. Think carrying an apple bouncing around in a bucket verses carrying the apple in a suspended sack. Quote
Ulu Posted April 2, 2022 Report Posted April 2, 2022 Yes, I have seen some fancy underslung baby carriages that do what you describe. The roads are very nice and smooth here. I don’t think there’s gonna be any problem with having to go over a bunch of nasty bumps. I changed the tongue completely, once I located a long enough piece of tubing. This actually made the cart slightly heavier but it’s quite a bit sturdier too. I also lit up the torch with a 000 tip, for welding the sub-millimeter tubing. If this was for my car I would’ve used the TIG welder but I didn’t want to waste argon on this. I’m gonna put a little bumper around the back of it for some reflectors, and I’ll probably use a welded-wire basket to hold the groceries. I still have to make the hitch on the bicycle and it’s attachment on the tongue. Then everything will get sanded and painted. 1 Quote
T120 Posted April 2, 2022 Report Posted April 2, 2022 Hi Veemoney, The Raleigh I have is fitted with the "Dynohub" as Cheesy identified. I was not aware of what it was called.The lights seem to work okay . Hi Cheesy, Thank you for information regarding the Raleigh "Superbe", as well as your suggestions on upgrading the the performance of the bicycle...Much appreciated. ? The woman who sold the Raleigh at the yard sale said the bike had belonged to her dad... The bike is in stock condition and while showing it's age, not much use. The treads on the tires are hardly worn,although the sidewalls on the tires are somewhat deteriorated. The bike does have the fork lock,(no key). Decal says,"Cycle must not be ridden with key in lock" The wheels and hubs are in fine shape , with no pitting on the chrome....As per your information,I checked the front hub and it has "England 75" engraved on the hub.The rear hub has Sturmey Archer engraved, I didn't see a date. The frame has a decal "Made In England". also a 20-30 Tubing decal . The serial number engraved on the frame is, NA5255503. I will be turning 80 yrs before this year ends,so this bicycle suits me just fine,and I'm happy to have it...? 2 Quote
cheesy Posted April 2, 2022 Report Posted April 2, 2022 T120-Your serial number decodes as N=Nottingham, A=January, 5=1975, 255503=sequence. This is before the dark times at Raleigh, so a good find. I've tried to stretch the life of old tires but it's not worth the walk home. I don't know how many American Schwinn bikes are in Alberta, but the 26 x 1 3/8 Schwinn tire and the 26 x 1 3/8 EA-3/British tire are not interchangeable. The Schwinn tire is larger in diameter. Don't think that the bearings in the Dynohub are bad because it feels 'notchy'. Though the grease is old, it's the magnets passing over the armature. If you decide to tear into the front hub to clean and regrease the bearings, do not, repeat, do not remove the magnet from the armature. Legend has it that the magnetism will be lost. I don't know if it's actually true, but if I need to clean the 'ook' from the armature, I've always pushed the magnet over a large 3/4" drive socket while removing the armature. Though rare, it's not that unusual to find a rear hub without a date stamp. There was a run of hubs in 1969 that were dated 69 15. Those of us that eat and breathe Sturmey Archer figured the 15th month of the year was something magical but wondered what happened to the 13th and 14th months. A few drops of 10w or 20w motor oil will keep the 3 speed hub clicking away for decades. Just don't use veggie based 3 in 1 oil. The veggie based stuff dries out and gets like superglue. New tires and a grease job will give lots of miles. My 1968. 2 1 Quote
cheesy Posted April 3, 2022 Report Posted April 3, 2022 I forgot about the fork lock key. Those can be had from eBay, just need the code off the lock face. These are the guts of the lock from my bike. Mine didn't have the key, either. A previous owner had hack sawed off the lock pin. I made the replacement, the longer pin, from a drill bit. 2 Quote
keithb7 Posted April 17, 2022 Report Posted April 17, 2022 Ok. I’ll admit. Call me a Monkey’s song. I’m a believer. We are in San Francisco this weekend. Pedal assist bikes. We rented them for the whole day. We covered a lot of ground. They sure are nice. 4 of us. We’re among the converted. 1 Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.