Engine Identification?

[Marc123]

I have a loader with a Chrysler Spitfire engine with a 25 1/4" long head and a 4.5" stroke as far as I can measure.

The Block has a casting date of 2-17-53.

The head is embossed with the Spitfilre logo, if I means anything the head has |3|3826-2 <DOT> on it.

 

I was thinking it was a Chrysler Industrial 265 engine.

I got the parts manual for the loader.

It says the engine original was a Chrysler Industrial 8A.

Are they the same engine?

[lostviking]

You need to get the numbers stamped into the side of the block, drivers side up near the head in the front.

[JBNeal]

additional information - industrial flatheads

 

Grade 8 head bolts?  That might be a problem ?

[Marc123]

Actually based on my measurements and the industrial engine manual I just got it actually looks like it's a 251. 

 

Why would grade 8 bolts be an issue?

 

The front left pad is BLANK.

There are no ID plates anywhere else on the engine.

The Industrial engine manual says NOT to use the front left stamp numbers as are not representative of the actual build.

It says to use the plate riveted to the right side of the block. I don't have one.

 

This is the manual I just got, it's dated 1960 and is listed as WM-4586

I don't know how or why it differs from the Orange and Yellow 1960 Manual shown in the above thread, 

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

This is the industrial motor I pulled from a 1960 combine. Stamp is on front left. It might be a ‘59 motor though.

[Marc123]

I noticed some of the sample Industrial Data Plates have a 5 digit Serial #.

My Vehicle Data Plate lists the "Motor No." as 58826.

Could that be the same as the Missing Engine data plate Serial #?

Would the serial Number actually tell me anything?

[ggdad1951]

I think I have a copy of the industrial engine manual around as well, I'll see if it is differing dates.

 

Grade 8's are not good in certain applications where they need to be able to stretch and/or move with engine heat cycles, they are a bit more bittle and couldl crack and/or break.  Right part for the right job.

[Marc123]

That's good to know.

I wouldn't do it when replacing bolts on an engine, but I do tend to use grade 8's for everything else I bolt together.

 

Thanks.

[Young Ed]

Also true headbolts have an undercut shank to prevent them from rusting to the head.

[ggdad1951]

I believe I have a version of the industrial engine manual from 1950.

[JBNeal]

8 hours ago, Marc123 said:

...

This is the manual I just got, it's dated 1960 and is listed as WM-4586

I don't know how or why it differs from the Orange and Yellow 1960 Manual shown in the above thread...

might be 12V vs 6V, among other things, such as different parts for later flatheads with higher compression

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

Other than specs, I have often wondered what is the highest cylinder pressure that has actually been measured without mods on any of these engines? The book value ( Massey Ferguson) that I have shows 125-145psi for 1960 ind 265. I measured 135psi cold.

[Marc123]

I have not checked the compression on the engine.

I DID unplug each spark plug and each one slowed the engine slightly and the engine sound changed a bit differently for each cylinder.

It was raining slightly so that made that task a bit more exciting.

 

My only real experience doing compression testing was with Aircraft engines.

I always use a leak-down type tester.

I was told the type that simply has a valve and records the peak pressure reached "Are Only Testing Your Starter and Battery Charge".

I don't know what the consensus here is on that?...

 

With a plane you have to pull each cylinder to absolute TDC, often adjusting it under pressure until It just balances.

If it's not dead on, the prop will spin 1/2 to 1 full rev.

The back side of a prop it actually sharper than the front.

It is actually quite dangerous, It's usually best to do it with two people.

Once you get it all set up, you listen for leaks on the intake, exhaust and inside the crankcase to identify where it's leaking.

 

I presume the same approach would be used on these engines?

 

Marc

[Merle Coggins]

A leak-down test is a good complimentary test for the compression test. A compression test is quicker, and easier, to perform and offers you a good overall picture of the condition of your engine. Once you identify a cylinder with low compression you can perform the leak-down test to identify where that cylinder is loosing compression. With this test you can determine if you have a bad valve, or bad rings/piston, depending on where the air is coming out.