waterpump

[johnjnr]

Hi, can you help with my some advice. I am fitting a new water pump on my 40 Dodge Coupe and seem to recall that the water pump bolts need some thread locker on to prevent water coming out of the water jacket ( i think that's what i heard?) Can you advise which bolts on the water pump go into this and need some locker. Also should i use gasket sealant on the block to gasket, gasket to water pump or other advice please.

 

Im a bit of a novice still on MoPAR stuff but learning day by day, especially from all the knowledgeable people on here.

 

I am slowly putting the cooling system and fuel system back together with new parts and hopefully will be able to start the car soon. 

 

[DJ194950]

Sealer on the bolts as they all go into water jackets of the motor.

 

As they are are old I,d suggest something on the thicker side and not thread lockers which are thin.  I do not like silicone sealers with bad luck- others have used them OK.

 

Prefer Permatex brands myself, but?

 

DJ

[Sniper]

Last year I dis a bit of a writeup on that pump you show.

 

http://www.yourolddad.com/cooling-system

 

the backing plate bolts on the pump I used thread locker on, for the pipe plugs as well as the pump to block bolts I used teflon tape.  You could use teflon paste if you choose, but not thread locker on those bolts.

[desoto1939]

On the pump that you are showing the lower left area of the wp is now thicker than the original pump. If you have the factory three studs installed in the front of the engine block you will have to pull the lower left stud becsue of the additional thickness of the newer styled water pump.

 

So do you have three studs that are threaded or only two and then you use the bolt to tightenup the pump where the pump is now thicker.

 

My 39 desoto has all three treaded studs.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[JBNeal]

additional information - internal vs external thermostat bypass for water pump

[Andydodge]

I always work on the premise that any bolts or studs that go into the block should have some sort of thread SEALER on them, also as Rich Hartung mentions compare the thickness of your original pump to the new one and replace any stud/bolt that is not long enough........and a thin wipe of Gasket Goo or similar non hardening gasket/thread sealer on both sides of the pump/block gasket can't do any harm, but a thin wipe is all thats needed..........btw........if you want to ship that extremely nice 1940 Dodge Coupe to me I'll be happy to do it for you............lol.............thats a NICE car........and a D15 to boot....YIPPEE!.............Welcome aboard...........andyd

[72morph]

I had to buy longer bolts ,new pump is thicker,Tractor Supply,no other problems.P12 plymouth. Old bolts were crusty any way.

[johnjnr]

Thanks everyone for your comments so far. I will check the bolts out as a new longer one was supplied as part of the water pump kit, which i got from Mopar Pro. Things can get costly when importing these parts from the US, but that is the only place to get these parts from. Sniper i have your web page saved for reference and quite often see your responses to various questions asked by other members on here. Thanks. Andydodge, sorry mate this one is staying put for now as right hand drive will be perfect for the UK's roads. Just need to put the engine bits back on and see if she starts. Then it'll be the brakes turn for the refurb. At least it will keep me off the streets!! LOL

[Andydodge]

RHD?.........lol.......yep, I can relate to that.......lol.........BTW...what tailights does your car have?.........I'm curious as D15's generally have the Plymouth vertical taillights not the horizontal US D14/D17 Dodge taillights, also the Plymouth bumpers,headlight surrounds, hood & fenders..............the best bits of both brands.....lol.............andyd   

[johnjnr]

18 hours ago, Andydodge said:

RHD?.........lol.......yep, I can relate to that.......lol.........BTW...what tailights does your car have?.........I'm curious as D15's generally have the Plymouth vertical taillights not the horizontal US D14/D17 Dodge taillights, also the Plymouth bumpers,headlight surrounds, hood & fenders..............the best bits of both brands.....lol.............andyd   

 

[johnjnr]

Andy, yes it has the rectangular vertical rear lights, plymouth bumpers and a nice dash that will need a little TLC but nothing major. One thing i will find out soon is how to start it. Since i got the car it hasnt been started and i didnt get any advice from the previous owner (my old uncle). But it will be a learning curve. Keeping as much of it original as i can for now as i want to enjoy it for a while. My son might have other ideas but he will have to wait!!

[Booger]

That is one beautiful dashboard/steering wheel. Art Noveau if you will.

Sniper nails it with the teflon tape,. anything liquid (not gasoline) Rectorseal #5 helps

Edited August 6, 2021 by Booger
speling

[Andydodge]

John.......I just realised that seeing your pic of the cars RHD dash..its the only time I've seen another RHD 1940 Dodge dash apart from that of my car...........well I don't count the 1/2 dozen 1940 Dodges I've pulled apart over the years, the last was in the mid 1980's when I parted out a relatively complete car to supply the front sheet metal for the 1940 Oz Dodge Coupe I had, this sedan also supplied the doors, as Oz coupes were originally made by the Dodge assemblers T J Richards in Adelaide by cutting off the roof & rear 1/4's from a 4dr sedan as follows.......lol......"Hey, Fred......we've got another order for a coupe.......where did you put the English Wheel?".........well thats my fanciful thought as to how the system worked........I bought my Oz 1940 Dodge Coupe in 1969, pulled it apart, sold it in the late 70's to a mate, rebuilt the chassis & suspension for him & installed a 265 Oz Valiant Hemi 6 & 3 speed manual..........he then lost everything except for the bare body shell sitting on the rebuilt chassis so I bought it back and had to get the previously mentioned 4dr sedan to provide everything to make the Coupe basically complete again.......I then installed a Ford 302 Cleveland & C4, 68 Dodge 8 &3/4 rear axle and started to get the car back in one piece........but life interviened and I ended up selling the car to a guy in western sydney in the late 1980's and its not been seen since which is a shame as the Oz 1940 Mopar coupes in both Dodge & Plymouth guise are very rare and as you see quite different to the US versions..............

............anyway enough of my ravings........lol..........  the attached pics are from L to R.....a pic of MY exact car taken before I bought it in 1969 that was included by the editor of the Oz Custom Rodder magazine when doing a feature on Oz Dodges, I didn't take that pic but I know it is my car as the rego plate was the same as was the dented front grille & sheetmetal...........the 2nd pic is the same car in my parents backyard after I'd pulled the car apart..........and the 3rd pics are from the day the car was sold again by me , note the straight centre pillar and the 4dr sedan front doors, also the small golf club door, needed, otherwise it was impossible to reach the front of the boot or trunk, also the dark blue Coupe in this set of pics is a 1940 Plymouth Coupe, that spare tyre is in the stock position as my car had the same arrangement, also note this car as was mine had a front hinged Trunk lid,..this exact car is now a turquoise green/blue colour and the trunk lid has been converted into a dicky or rumble seat with a pair of "aero" screens on the tulip panel for wind protection........this "restored" Plymouth is sometimes referred to as Stock with the rumble seat but I took that blue car pic in 1972 and know that they are one & the same cars............anyway........see what your cars pics have done......lol..........I get verbal diarrhoea...............lol...........regards from Oz......Andy douglas