Vacuum Advance on Distributor

[dwest999]

I searched the forum and couldn’t find anything on whether or not the vacuum advance on the side of the distributor can be serviced/rebuilt.  I had the one of my Autolite IBR distributor off yesterday.  The arm coming of the advance unit did moved, but not very easily.  I know you can buy a new one but I was hoping I could just service the one I have.  Thank you.

[keithb7]

The vacuum diaphragm can be replaced with a new one. Or is, your issue with the breaker plate, not wanting to rotate?  Either can be replaced fairly easily.  I'd unbolt the vacuum diaphragm and test it for movement. Try spraying some lubricant in side it. Both ends if you can. Pull a vacuum off of it, see it if the arm moves.  Spray some lubricant down in the breaker plate rotate bearing. Does it move easily by hand when you rotate it?

Edited June 13, 2021 by keithb7

[kencombs]

1 hour ago, dwest999 said:

I searched the forum and couldn’t find anything on whether or not the vacuum advance on the side of the distributor can be serviced/rebuilt.  I had the one of my Autolite IBR distributor off yesterday.  The arm coming of the advance unit did moved, but not very easily.  I know you can buy a new one but I was hoping I could just service the one I have.  Thank you.

Why do you believe it needs service?  They are usually a very simple device, and either work or do not.  If it moves when a vacuum source is applied, and doesn't move after the source is removed while plugging the tube it is probably fine.  Or, just check with a timing light.   As to the arm moving but not easily, that is normal.  The vacuum sources must overcome the spring resistance.

[dwest999]

Ken, thanks.  This is my first rodeo on a lot of this stuff and I wasn't sure.  The arm does move.  I don't have the tool (yet) to check it but will be getting one.  The car is still running really rough.  We chased things yesterday and have too spark established.  We think the time is good and dwell is set correctly as it idles ok until you put it under load.  Then the darn think sputters and fumbles... I drained most of the gas from the tank today and although it didn't smell too much like varnish, it also didn't look like it was new.  I also have a carb rebuild kit coming.  Just trying to test and eliminate things along the way.  Thanks again.

[desoto1939]

when rebuilding the carb go get your self two empty egg carboard containers of go to the dollar store and get two bill reminder containers for each day of the week.  Number is slot starting with 1- you have no more slots.

 

As you take the carb apart put the first part in hole 1 and so forth until it is completely apart.  This is important since there are several small ball bearing and each are a different size and they need to go back into the proper holes and can, can not be mixed up.  This way you know which parts goes where by the reveser order of parts.

 

Also go to Harbor Freight get their Sonic liquid vibration cleaner to help clean the parts of the carb. do not put the ball bearing in the cleaner keep them in the appropriate slots in the egg crate box.

 

Take your time it is easy to rebuild a carb.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

[dwest999]

desoto 1939 and Keith, thanks for the tips.  I pulled the distributor to get the number off of it.  It's a Autolite IBR 4001... which is great; however, I can find any more information on the Internet in terms of getting a new cap and rotor (those are the only two things I have replaced in the distributor).  I did also check for movement in vacuum advance (and Keith instructed) and it's moving fine. 

 

At this point I guessing it's a fuel issue.  I did drain the tank the best I could and put 5 fresh gallons in it.  I put the distributor back in at the same location, but now, for some reason the engine turns, but doesn't  want to fire up.  I started it this morning (ugh).  I guess I could check for spark; however, after cranking it hard this morning it did start.  Hummmm....

 

ps - Keith I just watched your latest video and like other follows of your YT channel I feel as if I know you too.  

[desoto1939]

Are you sure the dizzy is an IBR-4001. I looked inmy Autolite catalog that goes from 38-54 and can not see that even listed as a dizzy.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

[DJ194950]

I did a internet search for "autolite IBR distributor" and got several results for you-

 

Just one-

 

https://brillman.com/product/autolite-prestolite-ibr-1016-distributor-rotor/.

 

The the number model does not really matter- just the IBR, has been my past experience on these autolite distributors from several vendors!

 

Maybe some help. ?

 

DJ

[knuckleharley]

4 hours ago, desoto1939 said:

when rebuilding the carb go get your self two empty egg carboard containers of go to the dollar store and get two bill reminder containers for each day of the week.  Number is slot starting with 1- you have no more slots.

 

As you take the carb apart put the first part in hole 1 and so forth until it is completely apart.  This is important since there are several small ball bearing and each are a different size and they need to go back into the proper holes and can, can not be mixed up.  This way you know which parts goes where by the reveser order of parts.

 

Also go to Harbor Freight get their Sonic liquid vibration cleaner to help clean the parts of the carb. do not put the ball bearing in the cleaner keep them in the appropriate slots in the egg crate box.

 

Take your time it is easy to rebuild a carb.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

GREAT advise!

 

@Rich Hartung

 

BTW,I SUSPECT you meant to type "two PILL reminder containers."

 

NOBODY likes to be reminded of their bills.

Edited June 14, 2021 by knuckleharley

[dwest999]

Thanks all... I really really appreciate this forum.  It’s a key enabler for me in trying to work on my own stuff.  
 

I found a distributor that supposedly came off an early 60s Dodge which matched the number I have.  That said, it’s helpful to know that IBR = IBR (thanks DJ194950).

 

Dave 

[keithb7]

Keep at it @dwest999 you'll get it sorted eventually.

 

There are several things that can lead to the stumbling engine that does not want to rev up. You  mentioned "under load". Are you saying that if the car is idling away, sitting in neutral, if you blip the throttle, it will rev up fine?  However it will not rev up when driving the car, moving you and the weight of the car, when the engine has a load? Then it won't rev up?

 

I've been chasing an acceleration stumble in my 38 Chrysler engine for a few weeks now. I'm getting closer, however I am not there yet. More work to do to troubleshoot a few more things. I've got too many other distractions and a full time job, to get it addressed in a timely manner. I too will get it sorted, eventually. 

 

Have you done a compression test on your new car car's engine yet? It's a great foundational baseline, that should be done sooner than later. I only say this because I should have done one a while ago on my 38 Chrysler too. Actually, before I forked over the cash to buy it. Lol. 

 

Keith

 

[Wes Flippen]

I had the same issue with my '50 Coronet. Idled smooth as silk. Stumbled under load. Decided I didn't want to be constantly adjusting points and installed a Pertronix unit. That took care of stumbling problems and ran great. (Now I just gotta finish the rebuild that I later decided was in order due to oil blow-by)

[dwest999]

Wow... I tell you this forum is great and I appreciate all of you and your input. 

 

Keith, once we (a buddy of mine is helping me) finally got the car started on Saturday it idled "ok" for about 3 to 4 minutes with the occasional miss.  Then when we increased the acceleration, even when parked, the car stumbled bad and really never came back to how it was idling originally.  We then tried to drive it and the stumbling and missing got even worse.  Later that day I tried to start the car back up and it took about 5 to 6 tries and then finally fired up.  Came back and tried to start it yesterday and it wouldn't start. 

 

Knowing that I had changed everything from I could from the coil to the coil wire to all of the distributor parts (including 2 condensers) I decided to pull the distributor and send it off for rebuild.  I know there's plenty of information on the forum on rebuilding the distributor, but for $200 plus parts I made the call to spend the extra cash.  Hopefully a rebuilt carburetor and distributor will solve my issues.  Wes, at some point I may move to Petronix.  In the meantime I'll tackle the brakes.

 

Oh, I did check compression, 1 = 100, 2 = 100, 3 = 98, 4 = 100, 5 = 92 and 6 = 100.

 

Again, more to come   

[desoto1939]

On 6/13/2021 at 8:12 PM, dwest999 said:

Thanks all... I really really appreciate this forum.  It’s a key enabler for me in trying to work on my own stuff.  
 

I found a distributor that supposedly came off an early 60s Dodge which matched the number I have.  That said, it’s helpful to know that IBR = IBR (thanks DJ194950).

 

Dave 

Send me you home email and then I can send you the page the file is to big to post.

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com