Napa urethane paint question

[Rodney_Hamon]

I purchased rattle can paint and then got a qt as the afterthought for touching up my truck bed. I brushed a little paint on the underneath drip pan and could see it needs thinning. It is a urethane 2:1 basecoat that dries fast. I called Napa and they said I need a reducer. It’s too far to drive to the Napa paint store.  Question is: could I use paint thinner from Ace hardware to reduce/thin this auto paint? I did internet search and it sort of says you can. Anybody try that?

[plymouthcranbrook]

I have used automotive lacquer thinner on acrylic enamel automotive paint. Are you going to spray or brush?  I would try a small amount on similar metal and see what happens.  You will need to figure out how much you need to thin it anyway. That way you will find out if it works without having to strip paint from good parts.

[Marcel Backs]

If you use thinner instead of reducer, it will quite possibly attack what you are painting over and cause lifting at the edges of any bits of the remaining old paint. The recommended reducer is a weaker solvent and regulates paint drying time to ensure proper paint curing. It is less likely to attack anything left over on a freshly prepped surface. Opting for reducer could save you some rework. M

 

[allbizz49]

I would use the correct reducer made for urethane basecoat. Also, you will have to clearcoat it. Base is only for color, offers no protection or shine. Once you get the repaired area covered, you can thin the base more to blend it out. After you are happy with how it looks, clear the entire panel. 

Edited April 16, 2021 by allbizz49

[Rodney_Hamon]

Just as I thought and thanks for the advice. I guess early next week I’ll drive back in to buy reducer and clear coat. Not the time to cut corners 

[Frank Elder]

Make the drive or order online........don’t do second rate work that you will regret in the future, I used to drive 60 miles round trip just to bowl in a league in Texas. I’m curious what your definition of too far is.

[DJ194950]

A friend told me of his first use of a base/clear coat system and had problems because he tried to get the base coat to lay out shiny as he always did with earlier type paints and had all kinds of mottling in the paint.  Why?. the base lays down flat and the clear makes the paint shine. Very different that 1 stage paints!

 

Just a heads up- read the prep and application info sheet- usually easily available online by looking up the brand and type paint-looks for instructions, etc.

 

DJ

[Dave72dt]

You may still get some lifting even with the correct reducer.  The chemicals and solvents in the base mix may not be compatible with those that were in the  rattle cans

[Rodney_Hamon]

All points taken. I live halfway between Albuquerque and Santa Fe in podunk. It’s about 40 or so miles to that Napa store in ABQ. I’m used to it. Used to teach at the UNM for 23 years and drove it everyday and liked it. Retirement is awesome 

[Marcel Backs]

YES!!!!

[Frank Elder]

I wouldn’t use rattle can primer on a bet.........for many years I have rolled or brushed on epoxy primer with great results, I mean you are going to sand it anyway. Better coverage and less waste.

[Marcel Backs]

AS ABOVE! A texture free bed liner properly applied could be the most durable and appealing finish in the long run. The secret to success in this undertaking will be in the quality of the prep work. I have a semigloss protectant applied to the inside of the box on my Tacoma and the finish is extremely tough and abrasion resistant. It still looks good 7 yrs later M

[Rodney_Hamon]

Loving the support of valid info. I do plan on hand application of the paint. The rattle can will be in areas that mostly won’t be seen like the back of the cab and leading edge of the bed etc. I think taking the bed off has taught me a lesson in “body off” possible restoration. A possible repaint in the future by a good body shop sticks in the back of my mind but for now I am happy to arrest rust and clean the decades old grease/dirt off.