MoparPro repro brake drums

[mburtis]

Found brand new 10 inch brake drums from moparpro and am wondering if anyone has used these that could attest to the quality and fitment. I know I need at least one drum and all 4 probably wouldn't hurt. I found a drum off of a 67 fairlane I think I could make work with some machining and obviously mounting to the old hub. The repro ones are expensive but they are a one piece cast with the hub and would save me a lot of work and time trying to adapt something. Wondering if the quality is up to snuff and they actually fit and function well enough for car I hope to drive a lot. I considered the disk brakes but would really rather keep it original. 

Thanks

[Plymouthy Adams]

how can you keep it original retrofitting other drums....?  I get your your drift....personally I never view these relics to the need to keep them as original.  There are those reporting drums retrofit....as this style carried forth through 1964 in the taper axles and integral hubs to the drums.  The introduction of the flanged axle and the folks retrofitting these drums to the earlier hubs have been done suggest it also possible for the axle it replaced.  it would involve centric alignment be it a machined hub, machined drum or a machined centric ring.  Again, mix and match of two era is not my goal but to move forward always to the better design so I personally have never explored a single bit of this only reporting what others have spoke of doing.

[Los_Control]

IMHO, depends what you want to do with the car .... will it be a concourse restoration and a trailer queen, then by all means go with original drums.

 

Are you going to jump in it and drive it for .... everything? Then I would consider updating the brakes and possibly rear axle so maintenance & parts are easily achieved.

 

You might try making a WTB add here in the classifieds, see if anyone has some decent drums for sale? Many convert to front disk brakes and have the old drums on a shelf.

[Marcel Backs]

I managed to find NOS rear drums on line at a reasonable price and they are still available with a bit of searching. Stick with the NOS since the parts were made with way better quality than the contemporary stuff. Luckily my front ones were in excellent condition. The extra expense on key components like brakes is very much worth it. It is always when possible better to rebuild the old American made component instead of using an offshore repop of questionable reliability and composition. A completely rebuilt stock breaking system works just fine with a good degree of reliability. I have been using stock brakes on my 39 Master 85 for 40 years without fault making sure they are periodically maintained. The only mod I would consider on my D14 would be a dual master cylinder if a bolt on application exists. All the Best! M

[allbizz49]

Throw a Cherokee 8 1/4" in there and buy all the brakes you'll need forever with ease. Especially if you are going to drive it a lot. It's either that or buy expensive parts. I'm all for retrofitting and customizing but making those ford drums work doesn't sound worth doing. Just swap the rear, pretty easy and they can be had cheap. 

[greg g]

PM sent

[poor454]

I have a 49 plymouth Special deluxe. I kept the original drum back brakes. I just went to a local clutch and brake place. They were able to turn the drums and build the shoes to each drum. That could be a option for you.

[James_Douglas]

Although I did in most other respects a concourse restoration of the 1949 Desoto, as evidenced by a 2nd and 3rd place at Hillsborough, I no doubt lost points for the 4 wheel disc + power assist conversion.

 

I just did not want to deal with drums, even though I have a brake shoe arc machine with both heads as well as the Ammco tool...

 

The big deal with disc's on the rear with the taper axles is that you have to machine the parts as a set and keep them that way. New disc and you need to pull the axle and then true the new disc - hub on the taper of the axle. That is why a lot of the aftermarket folks don't do kits for the rear.

 

I know my 1964 Chrysler 300K, both my Hardtop and Convertible had the 11x3 HD drums. Mine were wearing out to 60 thousandths and needed replacing. In 1990 nobody had them. I found that the late 1960's dodge police cars came with that same drum. All cast and not bi-matalic as the stockers are. 

 

If you can get all cast drums, do it. They absorb more heat and going down a hill the brake fade is much less. If I were to run drums on the Desoto's...I would send them to CH Topping in LA and have them drill the vent holes in them.

 

Racing speeds were going up and up just as disc brakes were getting popular. The racers toward the end of the drum era, starting drilling the drums to allow the gases to vent and it made a big difference.  The practice never went mainstream as discs took over.

 

So much fun!  James.

 

[mburtis]

13 minutes ago, James_Douglas said:

Although I did in most other respects a concourse restoration of the 1949 Desoto, as evidenced by a 2nd and 3rd place at Hillsborough, I no doubt lost points for the 4 wheel disc + power assist conversion.

 

I just did not want to deal with drums, even though I have a brake shoe arc machine with both heads as well as the Ammco tool...

 

The big deal with disc's on the rear with the taper axles is that you have to machine the parts as a set and keep them that way. New disc and you need to pull the axle and then true the new disc - hub on the taper of the axle. That is why a lot of the aftermarket folks don't do kits for the rear.

 

I know my 1964 Chrysler 300K, both my Hardtop and Convertible had the 11x3 HD drums. Mine were wearing out to 60 thousandths and needed replacing. In 1990 nobody had them. I found that the late 1960's dodge police cars came with that same drum. All cast and not bi-matalic as the stockers are. 

 

If you can get all cast drums, do it. They absorb more heat and going down a hill the brake fade is much less. If I were to run drums on the Desoto's...I would send them to CH Topping in LA and have them drill the vent holes in them.

 

Racing speeds were going up and up just as disc brakes were getting popular. The racers toward the end of the drum era, starting drilling the drums to allow the gases to vent and it made a big difference.  The practice never went mainstream as discs took over.

 

So much fun!  James.

 

Very interesting thoughts on the all cast drum vs the two piece construction. Hadn't really thought of the heat sink affect. Had been pondering if there would be a strength issue going from steel hub to cast.