HOME Stretch

[dpollo]

I have had the Jiffy Jet nozzle and tube for years !  Never knew what it was for since my focus has been mostly on Plymouth but I think the 41 had an extra hole.  Other Jiffy Jet items that I have kept are the individual nozzles that go through the cowl.    What do you bet that when I go out to the shop and pull the box where the nozzle has been for 40 years, it will not be there.  Great discussion thread and good luck.  dp

[Frank Elder]

15 hours ago, Conn47D24 said:

Some progress today.

 

Frank, note the gloss white underside of dash.

 

I know it'll payoff !

 

Great idea.

I hate to be a party pooper but why did you paint that small section and not all of the back side?

[Conn47D24]

Frank, two thoughts. Didn't want to take apart what I had done.

 

Looking up all front mounted items will have the white above.

 

Should be clearer.

 

Can't hurt.

 

 

[Conn47D24]

Gauge cluster all set.

 

[Conn47D24]

Speedo cable in with speedometer cable clips.

One more item ready for the dash install.

[Conn47D24]

Before and after.

Original harness,  and one from Rhode Island Wiring that they made for me years ago.

[Conn47D24]

Back at it this New Year. 

Dash is in.

 

Today was the first start with the dash starter Button.

 

Another milestone. 

 

Still need to connect radimeter. And oil gauge line.

 

Few gremlins too.

 

Fuel gauge, it goes up half, and back down.

Slowly up and down, never stops. 

 

Anyone seen this?

[Marcel Backs]

Is it a 2 wire sender and is it an old or new one Conn? BTW another spectacular dash in progress!

Edited January 23, 2021 by Marcel Backs

[Conn47D24]

Marcel,

 

2 wire fuel guage / sending unit.

 

I just noticed one picture the guage is on E and the other about 1/2.

 

That's the slow movement happening while running.

[Marcel Backs]

Mine did the same and was attributed to the sender. When I checked the old one with my multimeter, I could not get a stable resistance. The new one gives solid readings on each of the. terminals  (1 & 2) as you vary the float arm position. Readings for ohms are taken terminal 1 to case and terminal 2 to case while varying float arm from full to empty position. A new float for a 40 D14 yielded the following readings:

terminal 1 to case float at full pos. reads 40 ohms

terminal 1 to case float at empty pos. reads about 4 ohms

terminal 2 to case float at full pos. reads about 4 ohms

terminal 2 to case float at empty pos. reads about 40 ohms

The case in the circuit is ground. Your fuel level gauge is a heated filament movement  with needle action dependant on impedance present at its respective terminals 1 & 2.  These Auto Lite gauges can also be troublesome due to their complex operation and construction compared to the AC moving coil movement which is a much more simple set up. If you want to read up more on this refer to Motor's Auto Repair Manual which describes the various fuel gauge types for the period. Good news is that there are still NOS ones available. Hope this helps! M

 

 

 

Edited January 23, 2021 by Marcel Backs
bad typing skills

[Conn47D24]

Yes. Thank you.

I will put a meter on it and check.

This is a new unit. Not NOS.  Could be Chinese crap.

 

I did try a ground wire today.  Mounting screw to body of trunk.

Now the needle shows full.  Only 2-3 gallons in the tank.

 

[Marcel Backs]

If your impedance readings are good mock up the fuel gauge circuit by running 2-jumpers from 1 and 2 terminal on the back. If the movement on the gauge reacts as before and does not reflect the  float position then the gauge needs to be replaced or sent out for cleaning of the points and re calibration. Check out wiring diagram to mock it up properly. Motors has a good procedure. hope this helps with this known fussy circuit. M

PS it takes about a minute for gauge circuit warm up and read properly after energizing it.

Edited January 23, 2021 by Marcel Backs

[Frank Elder]

On 1/22/2021 at 4:19 PM, Conn47D24 said:

Back at it this New Year. 

Dash is in.

 

Today was the first start with the dash starter Button.

 

Another milestone. 

 

Still need to connect radimeter. And oil gauge line.

 

Few gremlins too.

 

Fuel gauge, it goes up half, and back down.

Slowly up and down, never stops. 

 

Anyone seen this?

whats a radimeter?

[Conn47D24]

Yes. Thank you.

I will put a meter on it and check.

This is a new unit. Not NOS.  Could be Chinese crap.

 

I did try a ground wire today.  Mounting screw to body of trunk.

Now the needle shows full.  Only 2-3 gallons in the tank.

 

[Conn47D24]

Frank,

 

Parts book term for the Temp. Gauge 

Sounds cooler!

[Saskwatch]

Thank you Conn47D24 for taking the time to document each step taken, with photos!

  It is a bit overwhelming to see the “attention to detail “ that has to be taken to get the job done right but will be irreplaceable for me to use as a step by step guide. 
  Two thumbs up ??

[Conn47D24]

Frank,

 

Parts book term for the Temp. Gauge 

Sounds cooler!

[Conn47D24]

Saskwatch,  I agree about importance of pix.  Many here have helped, and when a key photo can't be found ( let's face it,  thread searches are tedious)  it is frustrating. 

 

 

[sidevalvepete]

Yes, your pics are great. I look forward for each update as you progress! I have found these new smart phones are so good at taking the pictures and then uploading them compared to having a digital camera that needs to be connected to the computer and then uploading. Let alone no digital camera at all when I started on my project ?

[Conn47D24]

Slow going last month. Cold garage and busy work.

 

Control cables are in.

Oil guage connected.

Most dash wiring completed.

Warmer days coming soon, and lighter evenings too.

Pressing onward.

[Frank Elder]

Are you going to the hundreds of red accent stripes on the car?

[Conn47D24]

Frank, I have been planning on it.  I do NOT have a steady hand for that work.  It'll wait.

[MarcDeSoto]

Conn, I just found this thread.  Don't know how I missed until now.  I'm loving this thread like no other.  Thanks for all the detailed pics.  I'm going to be doing all of this soon with my 48 DeSoto 3W coupe, and it's great to have some guidance.  I'm taking the body off of my frame now and have made a body cart so I can work on the chassis without creeping on my back all the time.  You probably saw my thread on this.  That pic that you showed of the wiring connections.  I also have an old new wiring harness made by Egge Machine, but I don't have those wiring charts.  I'd really appreciate it if you could scan those charts as it would be very similar to my DeSoto.  Marc.

[Conn47D24]

Thanks Mark,

 

I am mindful that having photos is so helpful.  Also frustrating when they can't be found.

 

These are the sheets that RIW includes when you get there harnesses.  REALY VERY helpful along with the schematic.

 

Yes , I've seen your project and am impressed with the frame off.  I chickened out on that myself.

 

Hope to me in the garage today as it will be 60ish in CT.  Another cold week coming next week.

 

Keep at it !

D24- Wiring map from RIW_000059.pdf

[Conn47D24]

Mark, 

 

Like so many here, this is what it was for 30 years or so in my Dad's garage.

 

Drove it ( black then ) 1980-1981 and disassembled , and garaged it all those years.   Started the build in 2012 and still going.   Working to get it road worthy this year.