Roller painting, paint good, prep bad....

[greg g]

Spent some time wet sanding and rubbing on my OT project fenders. The paint looks good but my body work is less than stunning. So now I want to reconsider the fininsh rather than redoing the body work.

Easiest is to go satin or flat. But since the paint is already on, it would seem I have a couple choices. Flatten the paint and put another coat on, or perhaps do a satin clear coat if there is such a thing. Shadetree painter tricks anyone??????? Some one said mix in some baby powder, or talcum powder into the paint.

G

[55 Fargo]

Why not do a little more body work, what is it highs and lows, filler showing , uneven surfaces. Even with satin or flat, you will see prepping, especially when the light hits it at certain angles. My car which is in substrate primer shows everything right now, but all the actual fiinishing body work is to be done yet. It depens on what your goal is right now, post some pics Greg, rreally want to see the results so far.............Fred

[builtfercomfort]

Have you considered textured paint? :-)

I'm planning on doing a low-quality paint job myself, going with a cream color to help hide the bad bodywork. I hate doing bodywork. I have read that there are newer super-bondo products available that make life easier. (Available from pro shop suppliers, not local discount auto parts places)

[Norm's Coupe]

Greg, Builtforcomfort has the right idea to hide poor body work. Paint it a lighter color like the cream, or even white. Darker, brighter colors magnify poor body work, lighter colors help hide it.

Also as mentioned, there's nothing wrong with using a little body filler to make it smooth. It's done all the time by pro's and people like us. Body filler usually only cracks when it's on too heavy. Otherwise, it will last a long time.

That said, whats the rush. You don't have to finish the project tomorrow. You have all the time in the world to do it. So, if you want you have lots of time to start over again.

[Young Ed]

Norm is quite right. Lighter colors hide better. Part of the reason I'm thinking of switching colors on my coupe. It was black and I did already paint a little of it cruiser maroon but I'm thinking of switching to yellow. Also there is nothing wrong with a little bondo. You are using it for its intended purpose. I think the can says no more then 1/4 inch thick. That gives you lots of room to smooth out some low spots. Sanding marks can be filled with glazing putty. Another type of filler.

[Plymouthy Adams]

slight sand scratches and chips in seasoned dry paint of good quality can also be filled with Evercoat two part glazing putty..(not the lacquer stuff in the tube) Excellent media..slightly expensive..about 15 a quart..sets up very quick and very sandable..not supposed to shrink etc etc...try it if you have not already..

[james curl]

Greg, I took my 55 Chev pick up down to bare metal, did a lot of hammer and dolly work, looked good in bare metal. Primed with epoxie primer in a light yellowish tan, you can see every dent in the truck by just looking at an angle to any surface.

[greg g]

These parts aside from being poorly done in the past were stripeof paint and allowed to season a couple of years. So they have developed lots of pits and etching. I removed the rust with several applications of acid, but I just do not want to deal with all the mini craters, by skim coating the entire fender. Nor do I wish to revisit the process with the cab yet to go which is in the same condition. So in an effort to hurry it along to driveability, I will eschew estetics and go for the low buck flat paint look. This is after all just a truck.

[55 Fargo]

True enough, what about giving a spray of high build primer, but I suppose that would defeat the purpose of the low-buck roller paint. Along the bottom of the fender could you apply some gravel guard and roller over that, just an idea......Fred

[Guest rockabillybassman]

Sorry, it's gonna show no matter what you put on. Satin and flat finishes show just as bad. I just sprayed the bottom of my Ply in vintage white, and as soon as I buffed it to a gloss.... oh dear, all the bits I missed stand out like the proverbial.... in my opinion just as bad as a dark colour.

[RobertKB]

Greg, just like your manifold and the easy seduction of JB Weld. Easy seduction often leads to unwanted results. Do it once, do it right. Take a little extra time, use some of the ideas presented, and have it look good.

[PatS....]

Greg, do one of those "faux patina" jobs popular now to make it look like it just got dragged out of the barn complete with a faded sign on the door.

[greg g]

There are places where the patina goes clean through. I was going for this look but with the tan on the hood and cab top at the hood fender line and the bottom the same brown as the fenders. I have a patch panel for the patina problem. Here is what the fenders look like currently.

As for signage I was thinking of an agriculltural theme featuring cantalopes and a cucumber.

[grey beard]

It's sorta' like this (gulp), if you want the paint to look like glass, the prep has no shortcuts. I'm presently painting my B1B one panel at a time, as I get the body work done, and it's quite time-consuming. Glad I'm retired and have more time than money.

My paint is Brightside polyurethane marine enamel applied with a 4-inch foam roller. I sorta' like the method, but the learning curve is steep. Fender shots are before and after. JMHO

[Norm's Coupe]

Greg, those fenders don't look so bad in the pictures. Of course pictures do hide a lot. As for the holes, you could do what I did with an old 66 Ford Ranch Wagon I bought in the mid 70's, to haul stuff around for the house projects I had going at the time. The left rear fender was rusted from the bottom of the fender almost to the top of the wheel well, between the wheel and rear bumper. Wasn't trying to restore the car, just make it look a little better. All I did was pick up some metal window screen from the hardware store and a can of bondo. I then glued the screen to the good parts of the fender (inside the fender edge) and shaped it tight. When that was cured I covered the whole screen with a couple of layers of bondo. Sanded it down, painted it and it looked pretty good after that. Lasted for at least about 5 years, as long as I owned the car.

[55 Fargo]

Greg, so far so good, just go with what seems to work out right now, get the truck back together. With the body work and new paint it will look cleaned up and presentable. Get all the mechanics,interior etc. Heck enjoy driving the truck, then down the road re-do all the body work and get a paint job at Macco or whatever. It's all up to you, as you say it's a Truck, and it's yours, do what you think is right. I am sure it will turn out alright, as I know you will make it that way.................Fred

[greg g]

Here is what I started with.

[RobertKB]

More than a bit! They look 1000% better. Too bad you are so far away as I know someone in my neck of the woods who has restored a Studebaker truck just like yours and has 2 parts trucks. I know the fenders, although rough, were a lot better than what you started with. Our part of the world is pretty dry and things don't rot out like they do in your wetter part.

[Brad Lustig]

Greg, do one of those "faux patina" jobs popular now to make it look like it just got dragged out of the barn complete with a faded sign on the door.

Saw a nice job of this done on a fiberglass kit car. Complete with rust holes and bubbles. You'd never guess it wasn't a steel bodied car

[Allan Faust]

As for signage I was thinking of an agriculltural theme featuring cantalopes and a cucumber.

I don't want to go there..... I can just imagine with your humor what kind of sign you were thinking of.....

Allan

[greg g]

Oh Gawwwd Vegan porn......