P23 (52 Plymouth) Gas Tank Unit

[ChrisMinelli]

My fuel gauge has never worked and that’s my next project.  I tested voltage at the tank unit (good — 7.2 volts) so I’m pretty sure it is the tank unit and not the fuel gauge.  Any tips on getting this thing unscrewed?  My Honda has a similar setup for its fuel pump and there is a special tool to screw the unit around.  Did Mopar have a tool, or is there a technique I’m not thinking of?

(I cleaned the connection and tested for ground.  Thought that would do it but nope). 

 

[Sniper]

Using a brass drift on an ear of the retaining ring tap it counter clockwise with a hammer.  You want to use brass because it will not spark and you don't want a spark around that area.

 

If you don't have a brass drift some brass square or even round stock can substitute.

 

I have the same setup on my 51 and that's how I got it out.  Take the wire off first. 

 

 

[Young Ed]

You can take 2 large screwdrivers and cross them in an X. One hooks the tab while the other pushes. Hard to explain but it works. 

[DJK]

Spray with some WD40 or penetrating oil also.

[dpollo]

Michael Warsaw .......  Mike@MpoarPro.com   offers new units at a reasonable price

[Loren]

PB Blaster is my "go to" for loosening things. Walmart has it along with the usual auto parts stores.

If it were me (and it might be soon) I'd make a tool. A piece of pipe notched with a file to engage the retaining ring would duplicate the factory tool.

If you want to get all Guru about it you could weld on a small plate with a hole in the center you could file square for a 1/2" ratchet.

I have a cheap set of Oil Filter cap wrenches that don't seem to fit any oil filters I have, that could be sacrificed for that tool as well.

Better to engage every tab on the retaining ring evenly to save it. As Sniper says tapping with a brass drift (or a chisel when there's no fuel involved) really works well.

The tapping replicates the action that makes an impact wrench work so effectively.

 

[Dodgeb4ya]

There was a couple different factory Miller tools made for removing the fuel tank senders without breaking the coil winding cones. 

Hammering on the retaining ring usually causes the "cone" to break off the brass rivet. Careful twisting the ring off is the safe way.

A couple pictures of theses tools ....tube type is for 1949 up thru 1954...other is for 1956 thru at least 1960 ?

These tools are very hard to find...though I saw one on ebay 1st time ever a couple weeks ago.

The tube tube type fits down into the hole in the trunk floor.. the other is for the senders at the front of the tank...two different sizes on that one.

Edited March 20, 2020 by Dodgeb4ya

[Sniper]

I believe I said TAP not hammer.  Never had a problem breaking anything tapping. 

 

 

[Dodgeb4ya]

38 minutes ago, Sniper said:

I believe I said TAP not hammer.  Never had a problem breaking anything tapping. 

 

 

It's okay ...Wasn't even referring to your post....?

I was just posting because I learned about hammering/tapping on junk yard sender rings trying to always get good senders...wondered why so many had broken cones...dah!

Using the tool back then resulted in a huge increase in getting good senders...1980's/90's

[Sniper]

S'alright.  I've used the tap method on every one I have ever taken out.  Heck I didn't even know there was a special tool for it the first couple times, but I couldn't see buying one by then.

 

Like anything, don't try to force it, with the hammer or the proper tool.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Too bad there are not any of the tools available out there as there seems to be enough people replacing the senders.

 

[Loren]

I am a believer in the "Tapping" method of removing stuck threaded fasteners.

The first time I saw it done was a way back in 1975. I worked at a German Car shop and the boss was removing an aluminum wheel from a Porsche that had alloy lug nuts.

The hex broke off and there was nothing to get a purchase on but the tapered part remained on the lug stud locking the wheel on the car.

He very calmly got out a hammer and chisel and tapped at it along the edge til it spun off.

There were no marks on the wheel and all the alloy lug nuts were changed to steel.

Since then every time I encounter taper headed screws (such as you find holding generator field coils) I take a hammer and chisel to them and replace them with new fasteners.

It's just too frustrating to fight them with regular tools.

Some times you get lock rings with detents which don't respond well to tapping. Those kind need a downward push and a twist to remove and replace. Notice the big handle on the one tools seen above. A shop manual picture of the factory tool will tell you what kind of lock ring you're dealing with.

[ChrisMinelli]

Thanks for the info, guys!  I’m going to be working on this issue on Saturday.  For being in the middle of a pandemic, work is pretty busy this week.