Bdblazer1978 Posted August 28, 2020 Author Report Posted August 28, 2020 Mounted the emergency brake. Got some help from my wife and daughter to try and bring the old paint back to life. 5 Quote
Bdblazer1978 Posted September 18, 2020 Author Report Posted September 18, 2020 It's like Christmas morning for adults. The machine shop called and my engine is done. Now time to re-read my shop manual and the engine thread. 3 Quote
Bdblazer1978 Posted September 26, 2020 Author Report Posted September 26, 2020 Mounted the block and gave the exterior a cleaning before painting. Used the new gaskets as templates for cutting the paint t. Overall I'm happy with the results, but realized I missed a couple spots of oil on the block as some of the paint didn't adhere. I'll repaint those areas once I get everything together. Today I mounted the timing chain sprocket by heating the sprocket and pressed the flywheel bolts to the crank. Also thanks to some advice on here I fit the rope into my rear seals. If anyone sees something that doesn't look right please let me know. This is my first time rebuilding an engine. Quote
Bdblazer1978 Posted September 27, 2020 Author Report Posted September 27, 2020 Crankshaft installed, everything torqued to 82 ft/lbs. Their is definitely more resistance now that the end seal is installed, I had to use a screwdriver across 2 of the flywheel bolts. It feels smooth, so I'm hoping it's right. Tomorrow I'm hoping to install the pistons. Quote
JBNeal Posted September 27, 2020 Report Posted September 27, 2020 If ya are unsure about the rope seal installation, maybe a search on this forum would be in your best interest... Quote
Bdblazer1978 Posted September 27, 2020 Author Report Posted September 27, 2020 Got some feedback that the "drag" is normal with the rope seal. Mine was about 35 ft/lbs to start turning. However I did remove the rear seal/crank as I was also told I should have soaked the rope in oil. I really wish my shop manual had more details for this part of the install. I'm sure it was common knowledge 70 years ago, but not a lot of help now. I was able to install the chain case cover and the timing gears/chain. Used the supplied o-rings to cut to small rubber piece for the front seal. Quote
Bdblazer1978 Posted October 4, 2020 Author Report Posted October 4, 2020 It was a good couple days, got some work done on the engine. Realized I had the oil pump off by 2 teeth and made the adjustment. Installed the head and started working on the cooling parts. I think my favorite pick is the clean cooling tube, espicially after all the work to get the old one out. I'm not sure why some of my photos are being turned. 3 Quote
Bdblazer1978 Posted October 8, 2020 Author Report Posted October 8, 2020 Made some more progress on the engine, unfortunately I have an oil leak around the oil pan drain plug. I've tried a couple of things to see if I can get the plug to seal, but it looks like the oil is seeping out between the pan and the collar. So I'm going to pull the pan and see if I can figure out the leak, really glad I didn't use sealant on the top of the cork gasket. 1 Quote
wallytoo Posted October 8, 2020 Report Posted October 8, 2020 for the leak, check the dipstick tube mount on the side of the pan. when it leaks, the oil ends up at the drain plug. 1 Quote
Bdblazer1978 Posted October 10, 2020 Author Report Posted October 10, 2020 On 10/8/2020 at 6:35 AM, wallytoo said: for the leak, check the dipstick tube mount on the side of the pan. when it leaks, the oil ends up at the drain plug. Thanks for the tip, I checked and mine is dry. Quote
Bdblazer1978 Posted October 20, 2020 Author Report Posted October 20, 2020 Thought I was making good progress but today hit a huge issue. Over the weekend I had everything together so I started walking through my first start checklist. Did an oil pressure check without any spark plugs, 10 lbs at cranking speed so I installed the spark plugs and proceeded to start it. After I realized my oil pump was off by one gear I adjusted it and it started for a few seconds before stopping. I figured I just needed to adjust the carb, and called it a night. Went to start it today and it just turned over. Started checking and realized I wasn't getting a spark. Turned the engine over without the distributor cap on and realized it wasn't spinning. I'm getting worried. Pulled the distributor and everything was ok with it. So I pulled the Brand New oil pump. It won't turn and when I was trying to start the engine it sheared off a couple teeth. Now I'm draining the oil pan to pull it and check for any other damage. I'm enjoying working on the truck, but days like today are frustrating. 1 Quote
Young Ed Posted October 20, 2020 Report Posted October 20, 2020 I believe we've seen at least one other case of a new oil pump being defective and seizing up. Hopefully you don't have damage at the cam. Quote
billrigsby Posted October 20, 2020 Report Posted October 20, 2020 Well I have to say this has me a little worried, I was wondering, and about to ask the question. Do you change or rebuild oil pumps I see some of the rebuild kits come with them some don't. Wondering what brand pump you had? I'm still at the machine work stage but I will keep my eye on this thread. Quote
Bdblazer1978 Posted October 20, 2020 Author Report Posted October 20, 2020 9 hours ago, billrigsby said: Well I have to say this has me a little worried, I was wondering, and about to ask the question. Do you change or rebuild oil pumps I see some of the rebuild kits come with them some don't. Wondering what brand pump you had? I'm still at the machine work stage but I will keep my eye on this thread. Mine was brand new, the one I pulled out of the engine had a crack that wasn't repairable. It was a Melling M-37, the only brand I could find. I ordered mine from Summit Racing and they are sending a new one under warranty. Quote
Bdblazer1978 Posted October 20, 2020 Author Report Posted October 20, 2020 Looking at the cam, I have one tooth that has a nick out of the front (not sure if this is new) and another that looks like it drug along the oil pump. I'm planning on seeing if I can smooth them a little without tearing apart the engine. Then I'm going to put the new oil pump in and watch how the gears mesh. I'm hoping that I dont have to pull it all apart. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted October 21, 2020 Report Posted October 21, 2020 17 hours ago, Bdblazer1978 said: Looking at the cam, I have one tooth that has a nick out of the front (not sure if this is new) and another that looks like it drug along the oil pump. I'm planning on seeing if I can smooth them a little without tearing apart the engine. Then I'm going to put the new oil pump in and watch how the gears mesh. I'm hoping that I dont have to pull it all apart. eek, that doesn't look good, hoping you are good to go w/o tearing things back down. Quote
JBNeal Posted October 21, 2020 Report Posted October 21, 2020 I recommend extracting that cam and having it magnafluxed for cracks, as well as sourcing a replacement...a problem this early in the process is a lot easier to deal with than after the whole kit and kaboodle is put back together... 1 Quote
wallytoo Posted October 21, 2020 Report Posted October 21, 2020 yeah, those cam teeth look pretty ugly. sucks to have to pull it, but probably the correct action. Quote
billrigsby Posted October 21, 2020 Report Posted October 21, 2020 Kind of like the 'you can pay now or pay later' oil commercials... I'd rather pull it now rather than later. ? Quote
Bdblazer1978 Posted October 23, 2020 Author Report Posted October 23, 2020 (edited) So I posted about my oil pump on a Flathead 6 facebook page and had a handful of other people respond that their pump had failed. I was amazed that this is a recurring problem. I received my new pump, but before I install it I'm sending it out to have it gone through. I'm also pulling apart a spare engine I have to hopefully find a useable cam. Edited October 23, 2020 by Bdblazer1978 Quote
billrigsby Posted October 23, 2020 Report Posted October 23, 2020 1 minute ago, Bdblazer1978 said: So I posted about my oil pump on a Flathead 6 facebook page and had a handful of other people respond that their pump had failed. I was amazed that this is a recurring problem. I received my new pump, but before I install it I'm sending it out to have it gone through. I'm also pulling apart a spare engine I have to hopefully find a useable cam. Did not want to hear that, just got a big 'box-o-parts' today, including a Melling Oil Pump. ? What FaceBook page? Quote
Bdblazer1978 Posted October 23, 2020 Author Report Posted October 23, 2020 5 minutes ago, billrigsby said: Did not want to hear that, just got a big 'box-o-parts' today, including a Melling Oil Pump. ? What FaceBook page? Not sure if the link will work. The group is called Flathead 6 engines. https://www.facebook.com/groups/194200864347464/?ref=share Quote
wallytoo Posted October 24, 2020 Report Posted October 24, 2020 i guess i’m not tossing the oil pump that came with the 251 (original mopar). used the original mopar pump from the blown 237 when i installed the 251 into my b-1-f. Quote
billrigsby Posted October 24, 2020 Report Posted October 24, 2020 I think I have four MOPars to choose from (one rusted solid)! To the crates tomorrow (if it gets above 22°) ? Quote
Bdblazer1978 Posted October 25, 2020 Author Report Posted October 25, 2020 Pulled the cam shaft out of the rebuilt engine and my spare engine. Never would have guessed that I'd use clothes pins during an engine rebuild. 4 Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.