51 B3B build thread - after all these years

[ggdad1951]

16 hours ago, bkahler said:

Ah d*mn, I screwed it up ☹️

 

If you hadn't mentioned it I probably never would have noticed!  

 

Fortunately with the glovebox not installed it will be easy to remove the cover for repainting.  I wasn't happy with the silver anyway so this gives me a chance to redo

 

Thanks for pointing out my flub!

 

Brad

 

 

Sorry bud, I didn't mean to make work for you, I was confused!  It looks fine!  I'd leave it till you get REALLY bored!  A bit driver and a small ratchet end wrench will make quick work of taking the cover off.

[bkahler]

28 minutes ago, ggdad1951 said:

 

Sorry bud, I didn't mean to make work for you, I was confused!  It looks fine!  I'd leave it till you get REALLY bored!  A bit driver and a small ratchet end wrench will make quick work of taking the cover off.

 

I guess it just goes to show that it's easy to gloss over something IF you think it's right.  What's even funnier is for whatever reason I was thinking mine was the only one having the two outer rings painted silver.  Yet in my stash of pictures I've saved over the years I just found several model 62 heaters with the same pattern as mine.  

 

I plan on repainting if for no other reason than I won't have to look at it knowing I screwed up

 

Here's a picture of a model 62 I've saved for reference.

 

[JBNeal]

On 10/19/2020 at 2:35 PM, bkahler said:

Maybe someone a little more knowledgeable than myself can tell me if this is a good or bad way to plumb the fuel pump.  The pump is mounted with rubber isolators with both inlet and outlet hard piped to the pump.

 

 

If ya ever have a problem with that line between the tank and pump filter, make the replacement with 2 bends instead of 3 ?

[bkahler]

16 hours ago, JBNeal said:

If ya ever have a problem with that line between the tank and pump filter, make the replacement with 2 bends instead of 3 ?

 

Ok, you have my attention!

 

What would be the advantage of 2 bends instead of 3?  I routed the tube with 3 bends to direct it away from the driveshaft and parking brake drum although I probably didn't need to do that.

[wallytoo]

5 minutes ago, bkahler said:

 

Ok, you have my attention!

 

What would be the advantage of 2 bends instead of 3?  I routed the tube with 3 bends to direct it away from the driveshaft and parking brake drum although I probably didn't need to do that.

 

probably could have routed the tube "straight" into the filter, and then used the elbow at the outlet of the filter to enter the pump, which eliminates one "bend" in the tubing.  still would be away from the d-shaft and drum.

Edited October 21, 2020 by wallytoo

[JBNeal]

Exactamundo...just takes less work to make and slightly less flow restriction from less tube turning...proximity to the driveline is a tad closer but still practically as safe as the filter...not worth swapping out for now as it should work fine

[bkahler]

18 hours ago, JBNeal said:

Exactamundo...just takes less work to make and slightly less flow restriction from less tube turning...proximity to the driveline is a tad closer but still practically as safe as the filter...not worth swapping out for now as it should work fine

 

19 hours ago, wallytoo said:

 

probably could have routed the tube "straight" into the filter, and then used the elbow at the outlet of the filter to enter the pump, which eliminates one "bend" in the tubing.  still would be away from the d-shaft and drum.

 

Ok, I see what you're both getting at.  

 

When I was assembling the pump and filter my thought process at the time was to keep them both tucked up close to the crossmember out of harms way.  Although unlikely I was concerned about road debris possibly kicking up and hitting one of them.   

 

Thanks for the feedback

 

Brad

 

 

 

[Jeff Balazs]

I have the same pump but use a sealed canister type filter ahead of it. I have over 5 years of daily use with mine.....so I know it works well.

I chose to do some of the plumbing with fuel injection type hose to make it easier to service.

 

I don't really like too much hard piping on stuff like this. At least at the business ends. I feel like this sort of stuff needs to allow for frame flex and vibration. My main run is hard pipe but both ends have hose and hose clamps. It is easy to work on and gets replaced every couple of years. I know it isn't as pretty as the tubing but it works well for me.

 

Also while I like the look of the glass bowl type filters I prefer to use sealed element canisters when it comes to something in this location. Just my opinions and observations Fwiw.

Jeff

 

[bkahler]

On 10/22/2020 at 11:58 AM, Jeff Balazs said:

I have the same pump but use a sealed canister type filter ahead of it. I have over 5 years of daily use with mine.....so I know it works well.

I chose to do some of the plumbing with fuel injection type hose to make it easier to service.

 

I don't really like too much hard piping on stuff like this. At least at the business ends. I feel like this sort of stuff needs to allow for frame flex and vibration. My main run is hard pipe but both ends have hose and hose clamps. It is easy to work on and gets replaced every couple of years. I know it isn't as pretty as the tubing but it works well for me.

 

Also while I like the look of the glass bowl type filters I prefer to use sealed element canisters when it comes to something in this location. Just my opinions and observations Fwiw.

Jeff

 

 

I'm not really sure why I used hard pipe from the tank to the filter.  It didn't dawn on me until later that I could use the same hose on the tank end as is used on the engine end of the fuel pipe.  The hard pipe coming out of the pump just worked out that way after I got done bending the existing fuel line to bring it close to the pump.  It just kinda fell into place so I left it.  In the long run I'll probably replace the pipe between the tank and the filter with a hose.  For now though I'm just going to live with it so I can keep moving forward

 

Brad

 

[bkahler]

I made good progress on the brakes in the last week or so.  I managed to install all of the brake lines so other than filling the MC and bleeding the brakes the brake system is done.  Ok, I do have a few clamps to install yet.....

 

If the weather is clear this weekend I'll roll the truck outside and attempt to bleed the brakes.  The last vehicle I completely replumbed I had one fitting that seeped a little so I'm hoping things go as well this time.  This is the first time I've used copper/nickel tubing and I'm amazed at how easy it is to work with.  No more using steel tubing for me!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Brad

[Jeff Balazs]

2 hours ago, bkahler said:

 

I'm not really sure why I used hard pipe from the tank to the filter.  It didn't dawn on me until later that I could use the same hose on the tank end as is used on the engine end of the fuel pipe.  The hard pipe coming out of the pump just worked out that way after I got done bending the existing fuel line to bring it close to the pump.  It just kinda fell into place so I left it.  In the long run I'll probably replace the pipe between the tank and the filter with a hose.  For now though I'm just going to live with it so I can keep moving forward

 

Brad

 

Brad;

I hope I didn't come across as being critical. Just making suggestions based on my experiences. You are really rolling along now. Keep up the good work. It won't be too long now.....

Jeff

[ggdad1951]

mmmmm cupro-nickel lines....love that stuff.

 

[bkahler]

23 hours ago, Jeff Balazs said:

Brad;

I hope I didn't come across as being critical. Just making suggestions based on my experiences. You are really rolling along now. Keep up the good work. It won't be too long now.....

Jeff

 

Nope, not a problem.  Everyone has their own way of doing things.  I've been rebuilding and restoring cars and trucks for over 40 years and I've always found it advantageous to see how other people do things.  I may not always agree but more often than not a better method of doing something comes to light.  I'm not afraid to plagiarize someone else's idea when I can

 

 

[JBNeal]

As David Letterman would say, you're not plagiarizing or ripping off ideas but merely paying homage to good thinkin'

[bkahler]

It's amazing how much space the dual horn setup occupies under the hood!

 

[bkahler]

Well, for the most part the truck has functional brakes

 

There's still air in the lines but a couple of pumps on the pedal and they seem to hold firm.  I'm using dot 5 so it's going to take a while to get all of the air out.  I was doing it by myself so it was somewhat challenging at times.  I think I had 7 fittings that wept a little but after tightening they seemed to seal.  You'd have thought that after the first one wept that I would have gone back and rechecked all of the fittings.  Nope, not me, I waited until each one leaked ?

 

It's going to be a while before I actually get to test the brakes but at least I can check them off my list as done.

 

Brad

 

Edited December 14, 2021 by bkahler

[DJ194950]

Bleeding dot 5 can really test your patience!

 

Really needs to be pressure bead!  It gets air bubbles very easy (just pouring in fast) and damn hard to get air out.

 

Came to detest the stuff but does not harm paint my reason for it.

 

DJ

[bkahler]

9 minutes ago, DJ194950 said:

Bleeding dot 5 can really test your patience!

 

You're definitely right about that.  I've been using dot 5 now for about 25 years and it's been a challenge each time.  Once the bubbles are out its wonderful.

 

9 minutes ago, DJ194950 said:

Really needs to be pressure bead!  It gets air bubbles very easy (just pouring in fast) and damn hard to get air out.

 

I wish I had a pressure bleeder.  Might look into renting one.

 

9 minutes ago, DJ194950 said:

Came to detest the stuff but does not harm paint my reason for it.

 

DJ

 

Yep!

[JBNeal]

I made my own pressure bleeder with a small garden pump sprayer (snipped off the spray wand), a 50 psi gauge, and some fittings from Ace Hardware, made an adapter from a spare reservoir plug to attach to the MC, and found that as long as I kept gauge pressure 15-20 psi, that bleeder worked quite well, even though the adapter hissed a bit...I think the gauge was half the cost of the entire contraption...I highly recommend it

[ggdad1951]

yep

 

 

[bkahler]

Ok, it looks like a homemade pressure bleeder is the way to go.

 

I have one question.  I've looked at a bunch of different videos and it seems that some people put fluid in the pressure vessel itself while others just use the pressure vessel to force the fluid that is in the MC through the lines.

 

To me the second method seems to make the most sense.  Am I missing something?

 

Thanks!

 

Brad

[bkahler]

Well, I think I answered my own question.  I found the Power Stop pressure bleeder instructions and for their system you definitely add fluid to the pressure vessel.  

 

To save me all the running around and having to find various fittings and adapters I just went ahead and bought the ABN brake pressure bleeder.  Price wasn't bad and all I have to do is adapt my spare cap to their connector and I'm ready to go.

 

Thanks!

 

Brad

[bkahler]

In my spare time I've been tinkering with the front parking lights and rear tail lights.  On the fronts I removed the original 1156 style sockets and replaced them with 1157 style sockets so I would have front turn signals.  I then silver soldered the sockets in place.  Next I'll bead blast them again and then paint.

 

 

 

 

Years ago I bought two new tail light housings from Roberts and since it was going to be a long time before they would be needed I stored them away without really looking closer at them.  A few months ago I pulled them out of their boxes and realized at that time that the socket arrangement was a hokey piece of junk.  They were for 1156 bulbs so no turn signal capability and they required special adapters that connected on the outside.  Oddly the special adapters were two wire and I subsequently found out that someone sells 1156 style bulbs with two elements.  When I bought the lights from Roberts I neglected to buy the special adapters but found them at DCM and ordered a pair.  Once I received them it was at that point that I realized just how hokey they were.   Needless to say the whole socket setup did not appeal to me.  

 

So, I removed the 1156 sockets and silver soldered new 1157 sockets in their place.  The new socket arrangement also creates a better sealing arrangement at the back with an extension for a cable sheath to fasten too so in my mind it was a win win situation.   Like the fronts I will bead blast and paint them and they'll be ready to go.

 

 

 

 

 

Brad

Edited December 14, 2021 by bkahler

[bkahler]

Who wants to be the first to tell me these nuts are on the wrong side?!

 

I don't remember if I welded them on or if the body man did.  24 years is just to far back for me to remember.  I'm pretty sure I need to cut them off and weld new ones on the inside but I'd just like confirmation before I make the effort

  

[billrigsby]

2 hours ago, bkahler said:

Who wants to be the first to tell me these nuts are on the wrong side?!

 

I don't remember if I welded them on or if the body man did.  24 years is just to far back for me to remember.  I'm pretty sure I need to cut them off and weld new ones on the inside but I'd just like confirmation before I make the effort

  

 

Mine (48 B-1-D) has neither, that is for the radiator mounting, correct?

Mine had the J-Clip Captured Bolts....

 

 

 

But to mount the radiator they will need to be on the other side if you are going welded nuts.

Edited October 30, 2020 by billrigsby