Refurbishing Steering Wheel

[Sam Buchanan]

Drove the P15 around town a bit to dry it off (don't need much of an excuse to drive the ol' girl around town) after scrubbing the engine bay and whitewalls and was surprised upon return to the shop to find my hands black from the steering wheel, apparently caused by moisture on my palms. I don't like steering wheel covers and have had steering wheel reconditioning on my to-do list. It got moved up the list today.   

 

I've refinished plastic-type steering wheels by filling cracks with body filler, thoroughly sanding out blems, priming and painting with automotive finish. This has always resulted in a nice finish. However, the P15 wheel is older than the other wheels I've refinished and appears to be made of some sort of rubber-based material.

 

Question to those who have gone down this path-----what method and finish materials have you used for a nice, durable finish?

 

Update; Have found some good threads in the archives but if anyone has a material list they really like please don't hesitate to reply.

 

Another update: The forum search engine can be a bit finicky when searching for phrases. Here is how I got a good search return using Google:

http://site p15-d24.com: steering and wheel

Edited August 3, 2019 by Sam Buchanan

[pflaming]

Paint! 

[Sam Buchanan]

Yes, paint would be a good option. 

 

What I was wondering....is it worth the effort to use a catylized automotive finish ($$$) or is a single-stage finish over primer durable enough on the material the old wheel is made of? I've used the high-dollar two-part stuff on other wheels but would like to avoid the considerable expense if a simple enamel gives good results.

Edited August 4, 2019 by Sam Buchanan

[pflaming]

I used rattle can paint over primer. Been four years plus, still nice and clean. 

[Dan Hiebert]

If there are cracks, might as well fix them now.  File them out in a V shape down to the base of the crack, even if it's to the metal core.  Then fill with two-part epoxy putty.  Pits and chips can be filled this way too, always best to rough-up the surface you will be applying the putty to, and don't apply it to a painted surface.  The epoxy putty is supposed to stand up to expanding/contracting better than body filler.  Sand, prime, paint.  I used rattle cans.  I used Krylon's "Khaki", much lighter than the original tan, but I like it better.  I used rattle cans to have a ready source for touch-ups.

 

Before:

 

After:

 

This has been through some serious freeze / thaw cycles since, with a couple hair-line cracks showing up that I really have to look for to find.

 

[Richard Cope]

Your wheel doesn't require the type of work that I recently had done, just showing what's possible, I believe Eastwood sells a repair kit with a two part epxy.    I had been looking for some time for a banjo steering wheel for 39 Ply.  Located a parts car with the correct wheel, stainless was in great shape however the coating was beyond repair.  Purchased the wheel / column & miscellaneous parts for a fair price.  Sent the wheel to D&D Automobilia, which has a mold for the 39 wheel and he recast the  plastic.  Took almost a year however came back like a new wheel, see photo.   yea it was pricy.  Where I live now, can't spray paint, went through a lot of color samples from Prismatic Powders and found that "Bent Brown" (PSB 5986) matches the original color exceptionally well for the steering column, emergency brake and mirror, etc.  I purchased the powder and a local shop has been powder coating the above parts.  It would be difficult to spray paint these small parts and have them come out as durable and uniform appearance as powder coating.  This fall when it cools down will change the wheel / steering column, etc.  I have some extra small parts that have been coated, if anyone is interested?  Have been trying to locate a horn ring, unfortunately it seems that the 39 Ply. had it's own design.  Does anyone know of any interchangeable part numbers, I haven't been able to locate any.

 

Regards

[Frank Elder]

@Young Ed used some sort of epoxy on his that worked real well with the P-15 wheel, not sure what he painted his with though.

[Sam Buchanan]

Frank, I selected an exquisite JB Weld product from the auto restoration department of Lowes. This stuff starts firing off in about 5-6 minutes so I only mixed up a one-inch long bead each time. 

 

 

 

My steering wheel was in pretty good shape, the only large cracks were on the back side. A Dremel was used to open up the cracks so the epoxy could be forced into the cracks.

 

 

 

To facilitate that process masking tape was firmly applied over the epoxy repairs to help it flow into the wounds. After an hour the tape was removed. Even though the epoxy was a little tacky it sanded very easily with 120 sandpaper.

 

 

 

After some quality time priming and sanding the repairs and entire wheel, it received several luscious coats of Rustoleum Gloss Black and the paint is curing in the warm shop as we speak. Reassembly is complete and the ol' girl should be back on the road and no longer insulting her driver by gifting smudged hands.

 

 

Edited August 6, 2019 by Sam Buchanan

[Young Ed]

3 hours ago, Frank Elder said:

@Young Ed used some sort of epoxy on his that worked real well with the P-15 wheel, not sure what he painted his with though.

I forget what I used and it's already cracked in a spot or two. I'm going to use PC7 next time. Paint is 2 part single stage that I also used to do the brown of my dash. 

[Richard Cope]

I used an epoxy paste  (PC-11) twenty years ago on a wheel, has held up great.  It is two parts A & B, the one I used was in two small separate cans and is now sold on Amazon.  At that time, the marine grade was not available.  Then painted with a liquor paint and clear coated.