Theturtle Posted February 22, 2019 Report Share Posted February 22, 2019 I am starting to rewire my 1950 Plymouth fastback, hoping to match the original as best I can using wire from Rhode Island Wiring and reusing the original terminals. The service manual seems to match the car with just a few exceptions. I have the dash out of the car (redid the woodgraining) and the body off the chassis, so everything is easy to access. I have tinkered with cars a lot but never attempted a full rewire. Some first questions: 1. How do the rear turn signals work? I see just two inputs - the brake and the tail light filaments. The turn signal wire appears to tie into the brake light wire. Does one loose the flashing when the brake light is on? (The turn signal switch is clamped to the steering column and looks to be dealer installed.) 2. The wire from the coil to the ignition switch is badly deteriorated, especially where it enters the armored cable forward of the firewall. Is there a way to renew that wire inside the armor or must one replace the switch and wire as a unit? 3. Is it practical to reuse the old terminals? Thanks for any suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casper50 Posted February 22, 2019 Report Share Posted February 22, 2019 Reusing old terminals will be very time consuming in getting the old wire off/out. Many are bullet ends with the wire soldered/crimped inside. I redid my 47 Dodge with RIW with their harness made for my car. No problems. Expensive but to me, worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barabbas Posted February 22, 2019 Report Share Posted February 22, 2019 You almost have the turn signals figured out--when making say a left turn and braking the left rear brake/turn light will flash, the right rear brake/trun light will be on. Personally I would use new terminals,, just feel better about connections to fresh metal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted February 22, 2019 Report Share Posted February 22, 2019 (edited) I used the small harness from EZ Wiring. It's a good harness. I used all new materials including switches. A tedious task, nut brakes and lights are not the place to skimp. JMHO Edited February 22, 2019 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 24, 2019 Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 I save all the old factory electrical pieces for wiring jobs I do to keep the systems stock as that's all I do in restoration work. The modern terminals are not as high in quality and looks. Some are quite thin plated metal and weak looking. I restore the original terminals when needed as some of them cannot be duplicated...I keep all the original connectors too.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theturtle Posted February 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 Thanks to all for the comments. I have lots of time and with the encouragement from Dodgeb4ya will try to reuse the old terminals. Started with first wire this afternoon. The original harness is beautifully made. Perfect crimping plus solder. I can remove the ring and spade connectors (photo). But I am stumped with the bullet ends which seem to be soldered and crimped at multiple points. Melting the solder does not help. Do I drill out the wire and then expand the bullet? How do I crimp the bullet back on when the time comes (weeks away...)? Could use some suggestions and tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted February 25, 2019 Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 Can the cable be drilled out from the end or if soldered into a harder metal, heat the solder and remove the cable? Just curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Los_Control Posted February 25, 2019 Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 I am needing to do the same as you, I thought about replacing and going with something else ... I dunno, like the bullet connectors and original switches. That said, I was thinking about just cutting the wire a inch or so from the bullet, then splicenew wire soldered and shrink tube. I dunno, kinda seems mickey mouse, same time I believe the old wire is good, just the cloth that fell off. I have not done this yet, but soon thinking a practice piece and see how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted February 25, 2019 Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 why not just get new bullets?? I get saving some of the more unique stuff but I believe you can buy a modern bullet connector that will do the job just as well as the OEM stuff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 25, 2019 Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 Too hard to remove the OE bullets... I use new Brass .154" bullets from RI or Y and Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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