Worden18 Posted January 18, 2019 Author Report Posted January 18, 2019 1 hour ago, Dodgeb4ya said: I made this up which is pretty close to factory design though for a group two battery. I did not fab the bottom lipped tray though as I didn't want it or need it. The hold down was enough to hold the battery tight in place. Very nice. Looks good! Before I fab anything I need to sort through all those extra parts I got with the truck. What I need might be in there. ? Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 18, 2019 Report Posted January 18, 2019 most of the original battery trays didn't fare well over the years from acid leaks...I think someone pointed you to the files I made to fab up a new one. It will lack the embossing the originals had, but will work great. If you have access to a CNC laser or plasma the dxf file should spit out a nice blank for you. 1 Quote
Worden18 Posted January 19, 2019 Author Report Posted January 19, 2019 I sorted through all the parts that came with the truck. Lots of useful things, and a number of useless junk as well. Pretty good score though. 1 Quote
Worden18 Posted January 19, 2019 Author Report Posted January 19, 2019 (edited) Starters, generators, carburetors, distributors, oil baths, oil filter canisters, brackets, oil pumps, flywheel, seals, and a whole bunch of other stuff, some of which I have no idea what they are. I will post pictures of those in a little while to see if you guys can identify them Edited January 19, 2019 by Worden18 Quote
Worden18 Posted January 19, 2019 Author Report Posted January 19, 2019 Okay fellas, let's play "what are these parts?" We'll just go pic 1, 2, 3, etc. Continuing to the next post. Quote
Young Ed Posted January 19, 2019 Report Posted January 19, 2019 3 minutes ago, Worden18 said: 7, 8, and 9 wrist pin clip 3 minutes ago, Worden18 said: I believe cab mount bolts 1 Quote
Young Ed Posted January 19, 2019 Report Posted January 19, 2019 5 minutes ago, Worden18 said: 4, 5, and 6 cab mount 5 minutes ago, Worden18 said: crank pulley nut for crank handle starting at the top. 5 minutes ago, Worden18 said: throwout bearings 1 Quote
Young Ed Posted January 19, 2019 Report Posted January 19, 2019 7 minutes ago, Worden18 said: Okay fellas, let's play "what are these parts?" We'll just go pic 1, 2, 3, etc. Continuing to the next post. pedal bushing? hard to tell size 7 minutes ago, Worden18 said: horn button and horn pieces 7 minutes ago, Worden18 said: spring shackles 1 Quote
Young Ed Posted January 19, 2019 Report Posted January 19, 2019 clean up those used pistons for neat pencil holders 1 Quote
JBNeal Posted January 20, 2019 Report Posted January 20, 2019 (edited) additional information - horn button assembly Edited August 20, 2021 by JBNeal revised link Quote
Worden18 Posted January 20, 2019 Author Report Posted January 20, 2019 1 hour ago, Young Ed said: pedal bushing? hard to tell size horn button and horn pieces spring shackles The possible pedal bushing.... I could maybe fit my thumb through it. It's maybe an inch and a half long. Quote
Jj1981 Posted January 20, 2019 Report Posted January 20, 2019 The bolts with springs, are they for the gas tank 1 Quote
Worden18 Posted January 20, 2019 Author Report Posted January 20, 2019 Pic 5 (lower brackets) and 9 are still up for grabs. ? Quote
Merle Coggins Posted January 21, 2019 Report Posted January 21, 2019 The brackets in pic #5, next to the crank pulley nut, I can't identify as anything on a Pilot-House truck that I'm aware of. The springs/bolts in pic #8... My first thought was fuel tank mounting bolts, but there should be a spacer inside the springs and they don't have a cotter pin retainer that I'm aware of. I believe Ed commented about the being cab mount bolts. That very well could be on a W-Series, or Power Wagon, but not for a Pilot-House truck. And the item in pic #9 I also can't identify as anything on a Pilot-House truck. These may very well be spare parts from something else that were tossed into your pile of parts. The comments of pic #1 bushing being for a clutch pedal is interesting, but my first thought was flywheel pilot bushing. I don't believe the pedal bushings would be that thick, and wouldn't be oilite. Pic #2; Horn button parts, but the horn button is the center of a horn ring for a B3 / B4 truck. The B1 and B2 just had a black plastic button that fit inside the steering wheel opening. Pic #3; Spring shackles Pic #4; Cab mount, or rear engine mount. Pic #6; Clutch throw out bearings. Pic #7; Looks like a piston wrist pin (grudgeon pin) retainer clip, as stated earlier. Quote
Young Ed Posted January 21, 2019 Report Posted January 21, 2019 1 hour ago, Merle Coggins said: The brackets in pic #5, next to the crank pulley nut, I can't identify as anything on a Pilot-House truck that I'm aware of. The springs/bolts in pic #8... My first thought was fuel tank mounting bolts, but there should be a spacer inside the springs and they don't have a cotter pin retainer that I'm aware of. I believe Ed commented about the being cab mount bolts. That very well could be on a W-Series, or Power Wagon, but not for a Pilot-House truck. Interesting. Those bolts look 100% like the W series cab mount bolts. Just like the B series the one for the drivers corner is different so with the one mount pictured and 3 bolts it seemed like a match. Do the B series trucks mount solid to the frame except for the drivers corner with the rubber mounts? Quote
Merle Coggins Posted January 21, 2019 Report Posted January 21, 2019 The B-Series used rubber mounts at all 4 corners, but the left front is missing the lower rubber to make it stiffer. Here is a page from my manual. The pic in the lower left corner does appear to be the same as the springs picture. As noted, that is for the Power Wagons only, which still used the W-Series cab. Quote
Worden18 Posted January 23, 2019 Author Report Posted January 23, 2019 Quick question fellas. Will my truck's tranny accept a PTO? Does anyone have a winch on their truck, front or rear? I know that's mostly a Power Wagon thing; my '55 had an 8k lb. Braden. But I've seen pics of some pilot house cabovers that had rear winches. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted January 23, 2019 Report Posted January 23, 2019 (edited) If you have a 4 speed then it should have a PTO cover, I believe on the right side. I don’t believe the 3 speeds are PTO ready. Edit: This trans is a later synchro version, but it the earlier 4 speeds would have the cover in front of the fill/level plug. Edited January 23, 2019 by Merle Coggins 1 Quote
Worden18 Posted January 23, 2019 Author Report Posted January 23, 2019 Fellas, I need some help again. I was talking to a guy about my carburetor,(because it was leaking all over the manifold and I need to put a kit in it) and he was saying that it might have been leaking where the linkage goes into the carburetor, and that is not fixable. Is he even close to being correct? I have the one barrel ball and ball. I'm worried that after I put a kit in it'll still leak. Is there any way to tell by looking at it if that area is bad? I already have the carburetor off the truck. I need to get the darn thing rebuilt and put back on so I can move the truck. I do have a backup carburetor which is the exact same one that used to be on my flat fender Power Wagon. But I know that needs a kit as well. Quote
JBNeal Posted January 24, 2019 Report Posted January 24, 2019 Look for brown staining on the carb casting...that could be the source of the leak. I had a Stromberg leak as the air horn was not sealing to the base...I put some sandpaper on a square of plate glass and trued up the mating surfaces, put it back together and the leak mostly went away...it seeped very little, that would gum up with dust over time, which I could live with 1 Quote
Young Ed Posted January 24, 2019 Report Posted January 24, 2019 3 hours ago, Worden18 said: Fellas, I need some help again. I was talking to a guy about my carburetor,(because it was leaking all over the manifold and I need to put a kit in it) and he was saying that it might have been leaking where the linkage goes into the carburetor, and that is not fixable. Is he even close to being correct? I have the one barrel ball and ball. I'm worried that after I put a kit in it'll still leak. Is there any way to tell by looking at it if that area is bad? I already have the carburetor off the truck. I need to get the darn thing rebuilt and put back on so I can move the truck. I do have a backup carburetor which is the exact same one that used to be on my flat fender Power Wagon. But I know that needs a kit as well. If it was leaking all over the manifold unlikely it was at the linkages. Those are more likely to cause air leaks. Sand the top with glass and sandpaper as mentioned above and put the kit in it. Remember the small BB goes under the accel pump! 1 Quote
Worden18 Posted January 24, 2019 Author Report Posted January 24, 2019 Alright guys, I'm back with another question. I disassembled the carburetor today and started cleaning. I did see the retaining clip and check ball underneath accelerator pump. However I'm not very confident on removing that retaining clip as it is very deep in the hole, and furthermore the instructions indicate that I may need a special tool to remove it. I'm more worried about getting it back into place once I remove it. Maybe I should just leave it and that check ball in there? Anyone else ever chicken out with this like I'm about to do? ? Quote
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