Oiling the cam in the distributor

[Cannuck]

Hi

I was doing some maintenance on my Dodge and the manual call for a couple of oil drops on the wick on the top of the cam in the distributor.

I removed the rotor and am not sure where to put the drops because the wick isn't visable 

[Los_Control]

There is a small oil cup on the outside if the distributor. On this photo it is not labeled, but you can see the cap right above the words "breaker arm spring screw"

 

Just lift the cap and add oil there, no need to remove the distributor cap as it is on the outside.

[Cannuck]

Sorry about that went to correct spelling and away it went .

I was going to place the drops on the cam but like I said I wasn't sure .

Also i noticed a tap on the block below the oil filler pipe

Was wondering what it is for  and is there  something I need to do or include in my regular maintenance

[Cannuck]

Yes thank you I had already put a couple of drops in the cap .

This was a further instruction to remove the cap and rotor and place a couple of drops on the wick that surrounds the cam.

[Los_Control]

May also interest you to know there is a similar cap on the backside of your speedometer, a few drops there while you are at it.

Look for a zoom spout oiler, will help a lot.

 

The petcock you show is to drain the coolant from the block, use it when changing your antifreeze

[Tom Skinner]

That is the Block Pet Cock If and when you want to Drain the Block open it (Lefty Loosy Righty Tighty)

[Plymouthy Adams]

the wick on the distributor cam assembly is there for lube to ensure it to turn freely on the distributor shaft and the even if the wick is missing do place a couple drops of oil here periodically to keep these parts moving freely.  This lube spot is different from the spring loaded oiler on the housing which lubes the lower housing bushing

Edited December 2, 2018 by Plymouthy Adams

[greg g]

Most new points sets are no longer equipped with the wick.  Older sets have a phenolic block, the modern sets have nylon, neoprene or some kind of plastic. (Most modern points are offshore sourced junk) Theory probably being lubricant is no longer necessary.  Last time I messed with my distributer, I put a couple drops of motorcycle chain lube on the cam.  That theory being it won't get thrown off the cam.  I bought three sets last time I found good ones with the lube wick (small felt pad) still part of their make up, they came through a Car Quest parts jobber yes an older independent store that is still open.

Edited December 2, 2018 by greg g

[greg g]

Before you mess with the petcock, use a lot of penetrating oil, they are easy to render useless f they are badly corroded.

[Los_Control]

The modern points for different cars I have dealt with, they supply a small packet of clear grease to lube the points.

Am told if you do not lube them, the nylon wears quickly ... worried if you do lube them, throws grease on the points and no fire.

Sigh!

[Cannuck]

Thank you to everyone .

 I won't mess with the Petcock and I will put a couple of drops on the cam .

Thanks also for the heads up on the speedometer cable  . 

 

 

John

 

 

 

[Los_Control]

Depending on how old your coolant is, it may be time to refresh it.

I can tell you when I opened my petcock it was plugged and not even a drip came out.

I removed it from the block, and on the bench was very easy to work it back and forth and clean it. Then re-install it.

In fairness, my coolant system was also clogged, not just petcock.

 

Just saying, do not count on it to work when you need it, unless you maintain it.

When it comes to battles, you pick the time and place for them to happen.

[Cannuck]

I have been spraying the tap on the head for weeks now  with penetrating oil to remove the tap that no longer works . 

I am nervous about putting too much torque on the tap .I don't want it to snap .

My point is i may have a reason to use the stop cock.Instead of draining the rad.

Another option is just cutting the hose and putting in a inline tap.

Problem is I get heat all summer long .

[Andydodge]

Those petcocks use a right hand thread to screw into the block and a left hand thread to undo or open them on the T piece, generally if you are going to drain the block and haven't undone the petcock before its probably a worthwhile exercise to undo the petcock from the block anyway and insert a piece of welding wire gently into the water jacket to loosen the crud, while you have the petcock out clean up its threads and check that it is a LHD thread then reinstall the whole unit........if you can get access to it maybe check the threads before trying to remove it but all these petcocks I've seen have the same right/left threads..............the T handle of the petcock has a plate that when you turn or open it, it moves away from the threaded body of the petcock and "opens" allowing water to flow out.............andyd   

Edited December 2, 2018 by Andydodge

[Dartgame]

For distributor cams I have a tube of dist cam grease - Notsure where your would find that today - had it for years...anyway a very thin film is what your supposed to apply to the cam. 

[Plymouthy Adams]

4 minutes ago, Dartgame said:

For distributor cams I have a tube of dist cam grease - Notsure where your would find that today - had it for years...anyway a very thin film is what your supposed to apply to the cam. 

that is for the outside of the cam where the points ride...the oil wick lubes the inside of the cam where if is to move freely on the distributor shaft...

[Jerry Roberts]

42 minutes ago, Dartgame said:

For distributor cams I have a tube of dist cam grease - Notsure where your would find that today - had it for years...anyway a very thin film is what your supposed to apply to the cam. 

For the grease for the outside of the cam where the points ride ;   Sold by MACS Auto Parts they sell products for the old Fords . 

[Dartgame]

If the wick is missing, find some thick felt and make one. 

 

Good to know Mac still has the right grease. It’s all but unknown in most parts stores these days.