Hound dog hauler

[Los_Control]

Seems my alternator is a rock star. Took 2 weeks before it was ever shipped. Then first stop was Lubbock TX .... ready for next day delivery.

It took a ride to Kentucky, then flew to Dallas airport, then returned back to Lubbock .... 3 weeks later it finally arrived.

 

Not exactly a 1 wire GM alternator. It is 65 amps. More then I need.

It is a rebuilt / refurbished ACDelco ..... 1 year warranty,$46 but $56 with shipping. No core required.

I have to do more research before installing it .... I understand that the 2 male plugs, the one on the right is for a idiot light ... not needed.

The plug on the left is a exciter wire .... just loops back to the main battery lug .... looks like a grounding lug far right.

I need to do more research, seems like this is the alternator I want.

 

I do not expect too much issue with mounting .... I think spacers will cure all.

It does have a narrow pulley on it. ..... My existing non stock generator also has a narrow pulley.

The narrow belt works fine on wider pulleys, just sits deeper & impossible to jump off .... Just not as cool as a wide 3/4" belt.

 

While it is a used rebuilt alternator ...... just too shiny & new looking.

I'm thinking some satin black paint, oil & dirt .... could look like it belongs there buried at the bottom of the engine bay.

 

 

 

[Dave72dt]

ACDelco is an automotive parts supplier owned by General Motors.

[Los_Control]

I need too ask for help.

I'm wondering what the stock seat height is.

My original Base I have, never had the lower springs .... I have nothing to measure off of.

I bought some bucket seats from a 1991 chebby truck .... They are comfortable & satisfactory .... just too low.

 

I need to modify the risers they sit on .... raise them 3 or 4 inches.

I'm asking if someone can measure from the floor to the top of seat to give me a target.

13" is just too low.

[bkahler]

I'd measure my truck but it's at the painters right now.  If I get over that way, I'll try and remember to measure for you.

 

[Dave72dt]

 I set my seats on blocks of wood, front and rear, changing the height until I got the most comfortable height for me.  Dropping the rear of the seat lower than the front and sliding it forward helped.  I ended up taking the old riser completely out.  The rounded front corer was interfering with the seat placement.  As small as these cabs are and as big as I am, I didn't bother with sliders on the seat bottoms but your choice, depending on your needs for adjusting seat position.

 

Mach I seat is at 9", my B3B is at 12" at the front top cover seam.  You could probably get yours up to 16 with a standard height cab.  Definately use sliders if you go that high.

Edited May 1, 2023 by Dave72dt

[Los_Control]

Thanks for the reply's .... Turns out I'm a idiot    

 

My daily driver is a 1991 chebby truck .... These buckets are the correct seats for my truck.

I have a split bench with a fold down console .... I'm not changing it.

When I drive it, I'm looking 8" above the steering wheel. .... So am confused why I'm looking straight at the steering wheel in the Dodge when the measurements are the same.

 

On closer inspection today, I realize my seats are moved all the way back on the sliders.

The back of the seats are leaning against the back of the cab to hold them up.

I can reach the pedals fine & drive it this way. ..... Just got the low rider look going on.

 

My risers are 1" taller at the front then the rear.

I think if I do a temporary mount of the risers so I can slide the seat forward, they will be fine.

 

Guess I'm just getting antsy to work on it again .... Dodge is parked on the side of the garage.

Been busy getting spring chores out of the way. My chebby is in the driveway for yearly maintenance.

Change the engine oil, .... maybe change transmission , rear end oil ... flush the brake fluid ..... grease the front wheel bearings  ...  We see what we get done.

 

At the moment, I just threw the seats in the truck to get them out of the driveway .... I need to spend more time on them.

 

 

 

Edited May 2, 2023 by Los_Control

[Los_Control]

Here was a swing & a miss.

Got my temp gauge the other day, just did a random order on ebay.

My goal is to have a new modern gauge that I trust ??? Then later I could use it as a donor to repair my original gauge.

 

At least I will have some base figures when I do start to drive the truck, then when my original gauge is repaired, I will have a idea how accurate it is.

I did have a donor but it quit working.

 

I chose this gauge because was black & chrome ... old skool cool.

What a mistake. It only goes to 200 degrees ....

No idea what the line is made of, it is covered with steel braided cable, way too flexible for copper .... I suspect plastic.

Just no way it will be a donor to repair my original gauge ..... while it may function fine as is.

 

 

[Los_Control]

Oh boy this aint pretty! ...... Lets tell it like it is   ?

My original radiator was shot needed replaced.  ..... A new Champion is about $300+ that's fine.

 

I seen this one on marketplace for $50 & snagged it up.

It is a decent 3 core radiator ..... that has been well used. Was custom built for a 1955 chebby truck.

I checked it when I got it home a couple years ago & did not leak & had good flow.

 

I needed to make mounting brackets for it,  I just cut the brackets from my original radiator & modified them.

Easy peasy.

Problem with fitting a radiator that is not made for this vehicle, I had to raise it to get the lower hose above the motor mount.

 

As it sits, blade clearance, hoses .... all will be fine ..... the fan is not centered & cooling the lower 1/2 of the radiator.

Not sure how big of a problem this will be?

 

I modified a radiator to fit the truck .... I did not modify the truck. ..... So when the radiator is my biggest issue, I can simply buy one made for the truck ..... right now I have a $50 get me by.

Once everything is painted black, throw some dirt on it .... should not look like the bull in the china shop.

 

 

 

 

[kencombs]

That looks fixable, but my way may differ from yours.  The lower rad hose connection looks way to big anyway, so I'cut it off, drop the radiator down and have the correct size lower tigged in place, pointed around the mount.

Edited May 18, 2023 by kencombs

[Los_Control]

Just now, kencombs said:

That looks fixable, but my way may differ from yours.  The lower rad hose connection looks way to big anyway, so I'cut it off, drop the radiator down and have the correct size lower tigged in place, pointed around the mount.

You are 100% correct. Except for 1 thing. .... The hose on there I was just checking for clearance, would a 90 get me past the obstacles?

It also was a conglomeration of a 90, A larger piece of pipe & another hose on my chebby when I bought it ..... I just replaced it with the proper hose .... this hose was in my junk box. Correct preformed hose will be fine.

If I spent the time to trim off the stretched out end, it would look fine .... I just never plan to use it.

 

Then reality kicks in ..... I'm only assuming Abilene Texas has a radiator shop .... 2 hour drive one way for me to find out.

Maybe Lubbock is a better choice .... same distance.

A radiator shop is hard to find. ...... A New Champion radiator built to fit the truck was $300.

There is simply no way I can modify the $50 radiator to fit better, then If I just order the correct one.

 

My game plan is too run it ....do not fix whats not broken ..... If it does become a problem in the 5k miles per year I drive ... Then I will fix it.

 

While the radiator had much love when it was built many years ago, It is simply a water container today.

[kencombs]

I wouldn't necessarily take an aluminum radiator to a radiator shop for outlet work, or anything requiring welding.   Most any town will have someone that does tig welding.   Maybe even a side job for an industrial welder.  Lots of those around my area due to the aircraft industry and others.

 

My wifes uncle use to carry proof of his ability in his wallet.   A couple of pieces of Coors beer can that he had tigged together.  Beautiful work.  Sure wish I could do that.

[Los_Control]

5 hours ago, kencombs said:

I wouldn't necessarily take an aluminum radiator to a radiator shop for outlet work

 

Yes Ken you are correct on both accounts, do not need a radiator shop to tig aluminum.

And The hose connections are different sizes.

My radiator has been damaged in the past. It was repaired .... If I spent any money on it, I would have it re-cored.

Or simply buy the correct fitting radiator in the first place.

 

Fast forward to future Fred ..... No leaks, man that engine really needed a good long run. After idling for a hour it told me the new temp gauge is garbage.

 

I have a 180 T-stat installed. ..... The gauge liked to read 150, would creep up to 155 then drop to 148.

I'm convinced the cooling system is working like it should.

My gauge reading 150F is garbage.

 

 

That said, the cooling system works fine as is .... it can be improved .... but works fine as is.

This weekend will pull it, clean & paint, then do a final install while searching for a decent gauge.

 

 

[kencombs]

good news!   Is the new gauge tube screwed into the head directly, or does it require an adapter?   Reason I ask, the old mechanical gauge style needs to be  fully surrounded by coolant.   I had one where the adapter held the probe out too far and fouled up the reading.  

 

My 56 head is drilled/tapped for a much smaller, electric sender so without some work, I'll be changing my truck to electric.

[Los_Control]

On 5/19/2023 at 7:44 PM, kencombs said:

Is the new gauge tube screwed into the head directly, or does it require an adapter?

Yes there is a adapter, it is needed for the tube to seal .... kinda like a needle & seat on a carb.

The original uses same setup & so did the last gauge I was using. I used the new adapter that came with the gauge.

When I ordered the gauge I was disappointed to find out it was coming snail mail from India. It was a couple months to get here. ..... Now I have it, it just does not read correct.

 

 

So this is finished. A cheap used $50 radiator has paid off. I got lucky this time.

I figure while working out the bugs of a truck that sat in a field for a couple decades it will be fine.

Later on if the truck works out like I think it will, I will just replace with a new one when this one gives problems.

 

Next I need to get the inner fenders installed. Thats great because I can now adjust the front brakes while the wheels are off. .... Just been waiting til I got the hydraulics working.

I can then start working on the wiring.  At least get the charging system going.

 

Here is where my $50 charging system did not work out.

I ordered a externally regulated alternator thinking it was internally regulated.

So that was another $25 for a external solid state regulator ....

Obvious it needs some work to mount it correctly, needs to go forward about 1/2" to line up the belt.

I decided to order a mounting kit for a SBC .... another $25.

Modifying my lower generator mount by removing the ears for the jenny, I can then weld the sbc mount on to it.

The jenny mount bolts to the block, alternator mount bolts to the alternator .... combine the 2 ... easy peasy right?

We will see how it turns out ..... The upper bracket can be heated in a vice and bent to where it is needed.

Also the alternator will be painted the same satin black as the aluminum radiator .... just so it is not so shiny & new looking.

 

I already have $100 tied up into a $50 alternator swap.

Now I'm considering to search for a wire harness to connect the VR to the alternator. Just to get good watertight factory looking connections. I know they do sell replacement pigtails for them.

 

[Los_Control]

The alternator bracket was easier then expected. I used the 2 brackets .... not the top bracket.

The one bracket I really do not understand how they would use it .... is meant to mount on exhaust manifold.

I did need to drill a hole near the front mounting bolt, then my die grinder to extend the mounting hole.

 

Then I welded the other bracket to it. Now I have plenty of adjustment to slide the alternator forward or back for belt alignment.

The top bracket I used a longer bolt then added a old square threaded nut for a spacer.

Little short on belt adjustment, only 1/2" of travel left .... If I loosen everything up & raise the top arm, will get more belt adjustment.

 

 

Going through the drive line now. Am pulling the needle bearings & cleaning everything in gas to remove all old grease.

Then hosing down with brake clean to remove any specs of dirt .... fresh grease & reassemble.

The drive line needed to come out for cleaning & paint anyways.  Only suggesting they should last awhile, if I decide to do a rear end swap down the road .... not a lot of $$ invested in new $90 u-joints.

 

 

 

I did get the battery box installed, nothing to write home about .... This was my first attempt about 2 years ago, It is 18 gauge, I hammered formed ripples in the bottom for rigidity & bolt head clearance then it has a foam bottom for the battery to sit on.

I actually hated it & decided to build another .... time to install the new one was too big & would be a problem.

So I just went back to the original .... will work for now.

 

 

 

I have some parts on order from Holley, they are having a stupid ridiculous memorial day sale.

While nothing for a pilothouse specifically they had many parts for  47-54 chebby trucks. I bought a complete after market tail light wiring harness to come from the cab to both sides of the rear, $3.

A shift knob for $1.50

I bought 2 different Front E-brake cables for $13 for the pair. .... If I can not make 1 of them work, I'm not out a lot.

I bought a tail light/license plate bracket for $7 .... will need mods to work but cheap bones to work with.

A chrome choke knob/cable for $4.

A set of quality chrome headers for a old Ford engine $52 with tax & shipping, whens the last time you bought chrome headers for less then $100?

 

I restrained myself on a lot of items, they had new 4 core radiators that would work for my truck at $55.

2 core @$35

New chrome bumpers for a 49 chebby for $35

I did put some items in my cart that disappeared as I continued to shop .... they sold out while I was shopping.

Not sure when the sale ends ..... sad thing is Holley is simply buying competitors and closing out their inventory ... more Hot Rod parts that will never be available again.

[Los_Control]

And just like that .... 2 years later .... ???

I have everything completed that I wanted to do before putting the floor in.

New bushing on the clutch pedal.

New speedo cable.

New e-brake cable & working e-brake.

Working brakes.

Drive line removed, u-joints serviced, yoke properly working ..... ready to go to work.

I changed the oil in the transmission.

 

Today was a mile stone, I was very pleased .... still need to button up a few loose ends, I can now weld in the floor.

I'm all happy, got the bbq going & cleaning the garage putting everything away.

 

When I put the oil jug away I realized I put 1+ quarts of 5-30 motor oil in it ☹️

Think we call this life happens. ..... I bought a quart of 80-90 a long time ago but could not find more.

So I bought a gallon jug of 85-140 ..... same brand I'm fine with mixing them. So I added the quart.

Then I grabbed the gallon jug off the shelf to finish filling it ..... I grabbed the wrong jug.

Never realized  it til I was putting the jug away.

 

Oh well, not a big deal. I was considering adding a quart of atf, run it a bit on the jack stands to clean the transmission, then change it again ....... Seems like I'm doing the same thing, only with motor oil instead of atf.

 

 

 

 

[bkahler]

I think I would just drain the transmission, let it drip for a day or so and then refill with the correct fluid.

 

 

[Los_Control]

40 minutes ago, bkahler said:

I think I would just drain the transmission, let it drip for a day or so and then refill with the correct fluid.

 

 

That might be the best thing to do ..... But I have a idea! 

 

There was a discussion here awhile back about thoughts on adding ATF to the transmission for a cleaner before changing the oil in it.

While not everyone agreed it was a great idea, nobody really thought it would cause harm.

I know the miracles of atf in engine oil to clean a motor out, I've done it with great success.

 

So now my plan is to run the light motor oil in place of the atf. The atf would be more effective, I think the 5-30 will probably do a decent job also.

I will change the oil in the rear end first adding 5-30 to it, then with the truck on jack stands just run it in 2nd gear at 800--1k RPM. Long enough for the gear oils to get good and warm then drain them while they are hot.

 

I will be curious to see how dirty the oil is when drained.

If really dirty, I will be happy I flushed it.

If just so so dirty, I will be happy they were not that dirty to begin with.

Since there will be no heavy load on the gears I see no harm, it will be a good exercise for the truck to run in gear above idle for awhile ..... I can see if the speedometer works or needs more attention after I cleaned it.

 

I made a mistake, going to turn lemons into lemonade.

[Los_Control]

Working the night shift ..... Been so hot lately 110-112F .... between taking care of important household chores .... just no time to work on the truck.

So today is 10:00 pm & finally got everything fitting. Oh it is ugly I guarantee that.

The floor pan needs to be fully welded exactly where it is. ..... Oh if I had any sort of dignity I would never show that transmission cover without paint ..... oh well.

I've also spent hours welding up & patching the toe boards ..... it will be perfectly acceptable when finished, painted, throw some carpet over it.

 

 

To me this will be a huge step when finished, now will have a floor to lay on while working on the wiring under the dash.

 

Just the thought of being able to sit in a seat & have a actual gas pedal when I move it around the yard is more exciting then I want to share here  

 

[Los_Control]

I have a question for the group. My steering wheel is in really bad condition .... I can repair it enough to make it usable.

I could never make it look correct.

This wheel the seller claims is for a 49 Dodge car ..... I'm guessing it would work on the truck?

Any thoughts on whether this wheel will work for me?

 

I contacted the seller to inquire about shipping charges .... the wheel is not cheap but seems reasonable.

It would suck to purchase it just to find out it wont work on a truck.

 

[ggdad1951]

If I remember right, there was a place that was recasting the steering wheels, someplace in England maybe?

 

As for your alternate there, spline count and diameter will tell you if it will fit.  And of course be mindful of scammers.

[Los_Control]

9 hours ago, ggdad1951 said:

If I remember right, there was a place that was recasting the steering wheels, someplace in England maybe?

 

As for your alternate there, spline count and diameter will tell you if it will fit.  And of course be mindful of scammers.

Thanks for the advise, well taken. I have seen a lot of scammers and read about them on the hamb ... I feel this guy is ok & not a scammer .... I still could be wrong though.

 

I have not removed my wheel yet, guess I'm hoping to either repair it or replace it while it is off.

I was just guessing the cars & 1/2 ton trucks would share the same basic steering box with the same shaft so the steering wheels would interchange ..... But I dunno. Maybe the wheels do differ between models.

[kencombs]

I think you will find the car wheels to be smaller OD than the truck thus less leverage.   Depending on use that may not be an issue. 

[Nirvana09]

Koch is who everybody in the vw/porsche world use. He's down in Cali.

 

https://www.kochssteeringwheels.com/

[Los_Control]

Just now, kencombs said:

I think you will find the car wheels to be smaller OD than the truck thus less leverage.   Depending on use that may not be an issue. 

Bingo! .... It wont work....  

Been trying to talk myself out of it, thats the best reason yet.

Mine is 18" and I'm running radial tires on 6" wide wheels. Will need all the leverage it offers ..... especially when the wife is driving. The car wheel in the photo does look smaller.

 

Mine is in poor condition, but I think the metal structure is solid.

 

I can use this product and like bondo fix the poor areas and spend hours with my dremel tool carving it back into shape then paint it.

Home depot sells this kit for $11 .... pretty cheap to work with.

 

 

 

Then just a quick idea, I can wrap it with leather and make my own steering wheel cover.

Kinda cheesy but maybe will think of a better idea later.

Maybe I will run across a better correct truck wheel down the road.