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Posted

Some PO beat on my crank pulley with a hammer so I'm ordering a new one from VPW. However, I noticed that the old pulley fits very tightly on the crank - so tightly that I would have to beat it on with a sledge hammer and a block of wood. Even then, I'm not sure it would go on. I'm wondering if Dodge designed these pulleys for an interference fit on the crank. Have other Pilothouse owners experienced the same problem?

 

Another question: Are any special tools required to install the timing cover?

 

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Posted

Should be snug but installed by hand only. Put the keyway in after mounting usually by tapping it in.  Maybe the PO mushroomed the front edge of the crank. 

  • Like 1
Posted

There is a special tool to align the front seal to the damper/pulley hub when tightening the front cover bolts. In lieu of that you can install the pulley, then tighten up the front cover bolts. There is also a special tool for installing the pulley, or damper. It’s essentially a longer bolt/stud that goes into the crank to draw it on. Don’t hammer it on. That can cause damage to the thrust bearings. 

Posted

I push them on with a special crank bolt I made.

Pounding them on can damage the rear crank thrust bearing... I say can.. not will?

These hubs can fit pretty tight onto the crank.

P15 218 Engine Assembly Tyson (8).JPG

P15 218 Engine Assembly Tyson (9).JPG

P15 218 Engine Assembly Tyson (10).JPG

  • Thanks 1
Posted

hmmm...likely tapped FEF's on with a block of wood and a hammer....

Posted

Dodgeb4ya,

I see that your B3D engine is bigger than my B3B 218. My 218 only came with a pulley on the crankshaft. Yours has a much heavier looking flange with six tapped holes. Why the difference? I'm just interested, that's all. Thanks.

 

And thanks to all who replied to my original post. When my new pulley arrives, I'll rig up a tool to press it on properly.

Posted
1 hour ago, Jocko_51_B3B said:

Dodgeb4ya,

I see that your B3D engine is bigger than my B3B 218. My 218 only came with a pulley on the crankshaft. Yours has a much heavier looking flange with six tapped holes. Why the difference? I'm just interested, that's all. Thanks.

 

And thanks to all who replied to my original post. When my new pulley arrives, I'll rig up a tool to press it on properly.

 

stock blocks would be the same between the two, only internals would be different.

 

Posted
4 hours ago, ggdad1951 said:

hmmm...likely tapped FEF's on with a block of wood and a hammer....

I wouldn't be too concerned Mark?....I used to do them like that and never had a  problem with premature end play on any engines I did.

But I decided to have an easier more sure way of installing  the pulleys and or damper type hubs. So I made the tool.

Posted

I saw my cousin beating on a crank pulley once. The next thing I saw was the pulley lying on the floor, with the end of the crank in it. True story.

  • Haha 1
Posted (edited)

From Dodgeb4ya's pictures it looks like the bigger Dodge flatheads had the pulley bolting on to a hub (the part with the six tapped holes), but the smaller engines (like my 218) don't have a hub. Instead, the pulley is directly keyed to the crankshaft. Am I right about this?

Edited by Jocko_51_B3B
wording
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Jocko_51_B3B said:

From Dodgeb4ya's pictures it looks like the bigger Dodge flatheads had the pulley bolting on to a hub (the part with the six tapped holes), but the smaller engines (like my 218) don't have a hub. Instead, the pulley is directly keyed to the crankshaft. Is that correct?

I'm in the process of tearing down a 56 Plymouth 230.  It has the separate hub and pulley.  I plan to use  power steering and found that the 6 bolt pattern on that hub matches later v8 pulleys so that works out for me,

Edited by kencombs
Posted

I just installed the hub/nut on my crank by heating the nut in oven at 450 degrees. Went on real easy with very light taps with hammer and wood. Machine shop trick. 

Posted

You heated the nut?⁉️

Posted

Making a tool to press on the pulley (or hub) looks like a good way to go. Two questions:

1. What diameter threaded stock was used to make the tool? It looks to me like 1 1/8 is close but I want to be sure before I order the stock.

2. How do you prevent the crank from turning as the pulley (or hub) is being pressed on?

 

(I thought about heating the pulley as a previous post suggests, but I'm concerned about how that might affect the timing cover seal.)

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