512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

[59bisquik]

Good job on the bumper. I have never seen one without the drop center in it. I worked on mine for hours on the press. Its better that it was when I got it, but still not factory. They used to pull logs with it.

 

[Los_Control]

My first thought looking at the bumper, looked like it was a front bumper that was installed in the rear. I do not know what the factory rear bumper is suppose to look like on your trucks.

I wonder if rear bumpers were also a option to order, like the heater or radio. And who installed them if they were.

[lonejacklarry]

Yes, rear bumpers and spare tires were options until the 70's.  They were either dealer installed or aftermarket installed.  There were a bunch of after market bumper designs for sale in those days.

 

[Radarsonwheels]

Thanks for chiming in fellas!

 

Yeah wierd right? Do your back bumpers attach with four brackets onto the frame like mine? My front bumper is totally different. Maybe my rear bumper is off a chevy or some junkyard magic happened but it looks like it’s 70 years old- about right!

 

The front bumper on my truck is bolted or riveted to the front horns of the 1954 frame, which I sawzalled off and kept all the way back to where the 1954 front leaf hangers started. It’ll be less work to get the brackets lined up to the nostrils on the front under the grille with the original frame horns intact, and look more correct too. 

 

I am happy the front one is in good shape but I am considering giving it a touch more angle or peak in the front to match the sheetmetal better. I haven’t decided yet.

 

After having no back bumper for months I am not sure how I like it visually but it isn’t a radical departure from stock and does make the truck look lower and wider in the back which is A-ok for me. I will probably have mixed feelings on the front too. 

 

I never wanted a smoothie street rod so I think the bumpers are necessary. I want somebody that’s not an expert to basically see an ancient work truck not a ratrod version of a Boyd Coddington car. I just won’t do any staged or fake patina- I have wierd specific taste.

Edited November 8, 2018 by Radarsonwheels
Added pic

[ggdad1951]

you have too much time on your hands!

[Radarsonwheels]

1 hour ago, ggdad1951 said:

you have too much time on your hands!

Ha! I get a little obsessed when I have a juicy project going.

 

I own a couple tattoo shops with my wife and we have a six year old too so I’m busy but I have an unconventional schedule. I end up having Weds 9-5 to myself and mornings free until I open my shop at noon. Then I often get a couple hours to putter around in the garage at night instead of watching tv or whatever normal people do.

 

I knew this project was so big that if I didn’t keep pushing hard at least until it’s a driver it would be neglected and abandoned. The coming cold weather is another motivator plus I reeeeaaaly want to hear this engine! 

[ggdad1951]

good for you.  I wanted to spend more time on TODD this winter but am doing woodworking instead.  I'm only technically on year 5 on that project.

[48Dodger]

On 11/7/2018 at 4:13 PM, Radarsonwheels said:

That bumper sure looks wierd hanging out in the breeze back there ......

 

Yea....I agree. I decided to leave it and see if it grew on me.......I ended up marrying the help, so I left it. lol.

 

48D

[FlashBuddy]

She's a beauty. The truck looks nice too.

[Radarsonwheels]

Today was front bumper day. My buddy came over and helped wrangle the doghouse on and off a few times. We jacked up the front and removed the wheels, measured and sanded the rad support crossmember and ‘54 frame stubs, put on the tins, cribbed up the bumper, and tacked a couple pieces of round stock in place. 

 

Then we pulled the tins off and connected the 54 frame stubs to the crossmember with 3/16” plate. Then we got excited and forgot to paint all the new stuff and put the sheetmetal back on again. 

 

I had never had the fenders in place since I swapped out the 1989 v6 springs for the moog coils and I was really crossing my fingers that it would not still be too low to turn the tires. Thankfully the spring swap worked out beautifully. The tires look nicely framed by the wheel arches but still have plenty of room to haul passengers, hit bumps, and turn into driveways. 

 

Another nice surprise was that the water pump pulley clears my electric fan with just enough room. Never had the nose on with the rad installed before. If I was running rubber motor mounts I would have to really watch out for trouble as they broke in but I think the polys will limit my motor travel pretty well. 

 

So here’s pics at full drop which looks pretty cool but rides on the rear bumpstops, and also around where I think I might want a regular cruising height, with the bags inflated but not too firm yet.

[Radarsonwheels]

My buddy lent me a bead roller that handles 16g no problem and I got started making the driver’s side firewall and footwell. The trans tunnel is going to be tricky since I want to make it removable. 

 

Jury’s still out on that.

 

I wish it wasn’t supposed to be snowing sleeting and raining tomorrow.

[Radarsonwheels]

I still have to make filler panels to join my new floor pan and lower firewall to the fenderwell area that’s built into the cab. The .120” wall square floor frame is overkill but that’s ok. I cut out too much and not evenly when I chucked the motor in there and now I’m sistering up the tubes in spots. It is ugly but it’ll work and my nagging urge to cut it all out and start over is losing to my drive to get it on the road. 

 

I’m considering my options for the trans hump- the good old wheelbarrow trick is a good one but whatever I do will be complicated by the cowl vent and brackets.

 

Having a fresh clean driver’s firewall is kind of exciting. It’s going to get cluttered in a hurry with the steering column brake booster and wiring harness.

 

Edited November 15, 2018 by Radarsonwheels

[ehadams]

What type of car cover are you using?  It looks like it fits pretty well.

Edited November 15, 2018 by ehadams
rewording.

[ggdad1951]

for my truck I got a BUDGE brand....works and fits well for inside storage.

 

[Radarsonwheels]

4 hours ago, ehadams said:

What type of car cover are you using?  It looks like it fits pretty well.

 That one was from pep boys and it was a ‘med pickup ext cab shortbed’. It could cover the nose or the tail but neither bumper. I went back this AM and exchanged it for a four door shortbed medium size pickup and it fits much better- around both bumpers with no slop on the ground. 

 

The problem is our cabs are taller than modern trucks and also I have a ‘long shortbed’ I am at 6’ 10” or so instead of 6 or 8.

[Radarsonwheels]

Here ya go

[Radarsonwheels]

Now the weight of the snow is pushing it down into the bed but the cab is where I have raw steel to protect. We’re getting hammered in PA

[Los_Control]

2 hours ago, Radarsonwheels said:

The problem is our cabs are taller than modern trucks and also I have a ‘long shortbed’ I am at 6’ 10” or so instead of 6 or 8.

Not really a problem, just need to get a taller hat 

[dmckeehan503]

Lots of great info in this post.  Thanks for the pictures, definitelygiving me some idea's on my build. 

[Radarsonwheels]

The snow is all melted and I got a couple hours today to work. I finished the outside corner of the driver’s footwell, connecting my new pieces and the old fenderwell section. 

 

I also started to make a skeleton out of 1/4” round bar for the trans tunnel. It will get plated out in 16g facets.

 

I’m trying to leave an opening to put an access panel for the back of the motor so I can get to it without pulling the cab. My original plan was a one piece metal panel but looking at how complicated it needs to be I had a thought today that fiberglass might be a good idea? Or possibly two window access panels instead of a larger removable hump like in a van?

[Radarsonwheels]

Also I’m trying to leave skinning the floor behind the footwells for last to make plumbing easier but now is the time to finish the rear floor frame with a driveshaft loop and also locate the seat frame since the shifter will need a console made in the rear trans tunnel area. 

 

I’m not sure if I want to make a console/tower under the rectangular shifter housing that is skinned into the floor (interior of console is open to under the truck) or just make a strong pedestal with an upper plate mount so the shifter console is a floating lump with a stalk connecting it to the floor? Either way I’d have to address the cable which heads down and forward under the shifter.

[Radarsonwheels]

I decided to enclose the tunnel under the shifter and make a little access panel for the mounting nuts. Should have welded them in or tapped the plate. At least its super strong! The floor frame is re-connected and the shifter plate is a stressed member at 3/16”. I also re-tied the back of the floor frame together with a driveshaft loop, and cut the hole for the steering column in the new firewall. 

 

I have to make a bracket for the seat frame and also extend the floor frame up behind the seat for seatbelt attachment points.

[Radarsonwheels]

Got the brake master cylinder in and mocked up the gas pedal. My buddy who originally brought the truck up to PA gave me the footprint gas pedal- it’s a little silly but it’s free and fun. 

[Los_Control]

10 minutes ago, Radarsonwheels said:

footprint gas pedal

I remember when those were popular and many were using them .... I love it

 

[Radarsonwheels]

Haha thanks I dunno if it’s gonna stay but the one that came on the knockoff streetrod cable throttle angles the wrong way