50 Coronet project

[Gregarious13]

So we're really getting into this Coronet, so I decided to start a build thread to share with you all. We have got the engine running, the transmission shifting and the brakes braking.  Next move is the electrical. 

Part of getting the engine running was to put a 12v internally regulated alterntor on. A 12v coil and resistor, new battery and swap the cables. That got us running and driving. 

were now in the process of stripping the original wiring, all of it!  The wires are super crispy!

We will be using an EZ wiring kit to get things started and modify as needed. I've used this kit in the past and like the price and quality.

The pictures show the dash removed and the engine compartment before removal of the wiring. The plan is to wire the dash on the bench and install one connector to attach the dash to the rest of the electrical. Easy removal if needed in the future.

 

I'll update as we go along.

 

Greg

Edited December 13, 2017 by Gregarious13
Misspelled would

[DJ194950]

One thing I found down after doing very much as you plan to do with a rewire- it took more than one connector and Please wire the wires long enough I to easily reach up and pull down the connector(s) to disconnect the end (s)!   I learned my lesson after I wanted to remove my dash after the rewire for more updates.l

Best of luck with the updates!

 

DJ

[Gregarious13]

1 hour ago, DJ194950 said:

One thing I found down after doing very much as you plan to do with a rewire- it took more than one connector and Please wire the wires long enough I to easily reach up and pull down the connector(s) to disconnect the end (s)!   I learned my lesson after I wanted to remove my dash after the rewire for more updates.l

Best of luck with the updates!

 

DJ

I'm sure you are right about more than one connector. As few as possible will be used. I figure I can run most everything to the left of the dash. There will be a couple connectors for the heater and defroster blower motors, and the wiper will probably be separate too.

I'm going to drastically simplify the wiring.

thanks for the reminder to leave a little slack. Sometimes I get too caught up in making things visually perfect, I forget that it needs to be functional too.

 

Greg

[Gregarious13]

Last night we got the fuse box installed and ran the bulk of the wiring to the front and rear if the car.

We used threaded nut serts in the sheet metal and 1/4 20 fasteners to hold the fuse box in place. The wires will follow the stock path, for the most part. 

Not sure what we are going to use to cover the wire yet. Maybe some braided sleeve from wirecare.com 

forward progress...

Greg

[pflaming]

I did not shorten any wires until I had everything working. I laid the dash down to  wire it then lifted it into position.Wires are easily tucked away out oh sight, or wrap them around a screwdriver shaft to make coils. I wish you success, oh and small lock washers on all studies.

edit: viabration will eventually loosen none locked stud nuts and you will not know why sometimes things do not work. The small pressed out metal lock washers are perfect for this. Don C taught me this. 

Edited December 15, 2017 by pflaming

[Gregarious13]

2 minutes ago, pflaming said:

I did not shorten any wires until I had everything working. I laid the dash down to  wire it then lifted it into position.Wires are easily tucked away out oh sight, or wrap them around a screwdriver shaft to make coils. I wish you success, oh and small lock washers on all studies.

Thanks for the tips! This car should go pretty smoothly I suspect. 

We won't cut any wires until we're absolutely sure we have everything where we want it. Working our way from the box to the longest wires.

We're wiring the dash out of the car and installing connectors for easy install and future removal.

Lockwashers on all the instrument studs? Probably not a bad idea.

Greg

[mrwrstory]

Nice job!  Fond memories of rewiring my P-15.  Musta gone through coupla hundred zip ties re thinking, rerouting and reconnecting.  Pretty pleased with the results.  A piece of advice that a very capable techie/friend lectured me on was,..."lotsa grounds",...."solid grounds".

[Gregarious13]

7 minutes ago, mrwrstory said:

Nice job!  Fond memories of rewiring my P-15.  Musta gone through coupla hundred zip ties re thinking, rerouting and reconnecting.  Pretty pleased with the results.  A piece of advice that a very capable techie/friend lectured me on was,..."lotsa grounds",...."solid grounds".

Ooh god! i don't want to think about how many zip ties I have installed only to cut off seconds later!  Grounds are very important indeed! 

When you did your rewire, did you use a wire loom of sorts, or just wrap the harness in tape? I like the cloth friction tape personally.

Greg

Edited December 15, 2017 by Gregarious13

[DonaldSmith]

I've been wrapping wires with regular, cheap black plastic electrician's tape, only to have a gummy mess later, when I have to undo some of it.   Cheap adhesive on cheap tape.  The existing wires were wrapped with a plastic tape without adhesive, with the ends tucked under the previous lap.   

Friction tape - hmm.  Or maybe someone has found a premium electrician's tape that doesn't get gummy.   

(Do electricians have wire nuts?  They would look at you funny if you ask.)  

[Young Ed]

To make mine easier you can get the small nuts with a captive star washer built in. 

[Gregarious13]

5 minutes ago, Young Ed said:

To make mine easier you can get the small nuts with a captive star washer built in. 

Brilliant! That's what I'll do!

[Gregarious13]

22 minutes ago, DonaldSmith said:

(Do electricians have wire nuts?  They would look at you funny if you ask.)  

 

My electrician friend has a huge sack full! Takes 'em everywhere.   Ooh... I see now.

[Don Coatney]

I am using this wire wrap. Believe I bought it from McMaster Carr.

[mrwrstory]

1 hour ago, Gregarious13 said:

 

When you did your rewire, did you use a wire loom of sorts, or just wrap the harness in tape? I like the cloth friction tape personally.

Greg

Did not use tape to wrap.  I changed things too many times so just left zip ties a frequent intervals.

[Frank Elder]

I will now pipe in with my standard reply......remove your cluster and other various items from the back of the dash, scuff the interior of the dash with scotch brite pad, tack clean, and paint with the brightest gloss white you can find. Reinstall said items.

This will ensure the next time you are on your head under the dash that everything will be clearly illuminated by your lite of choice......you will congratulate yourself later on having such a brilliant idea.....lol.

[Gregarious13]

11 minutes ago, Frank Elder said:

I will now pipe in with my standard reply......remove your cluster and other various items from the back of the dash, scuff the interior of the dash with scotch brite pad, tack clean, and paint with the brightest gloss white you can find. Reinstall said items.

This will ensure the next time you are on your head under the dash that everything will be clearly illuminated by your lite of choice......you will congratulate yourself later on having such a brilliant idea.....lol.

Yes! That's another brilliant idea! Definitely doing this.

 

Greg

[mrwrstory]

On 12/15/2017 at 9:50 AM, Frank Elder said:

I will now pipe in with my standard reply......remove your cluster and other various items from the back of the dash, scuff the interior of the dash with scotch brite pad, tack clean, and paint with the brightest gloss white you can find. Reinstall said items.

This will ensure the next time you are on your head under the dash that everything will be clearly illuminated by your lite of choice......you will congratulate yourself later on having such a brilliant idea.....lol.

I did that, I think on Ed's advise, some years ago and heartily endorse the suggestion.  Bad enough hanging upside-down like a bat, but at least you can see.

[Gregarious13]

Made a little more progress this morning. Got the wires at the fuse box run in the correct directions. I removed the electric temp and oil sender wires. Added dome light and reverse light circuits. Moved the brake light switch wiring to the rear bundle rather than the dash bundle. 

We're leaving the electric fan and A/C circuits for future A/C install.

i found a supplier for bulbs socket contacts, just the little brass ends in the socket. A pack of 100 at $40. http://www.repairconnector.com 

We ordered 7" round headlamps that accept the H4 halogen bulbs. I will add two relays for for the headlights to take the load off the headlight switch and allow for brighter headlights. 

i think we're going to get a GM style headlight dimmer switch so the electrical connector will be inside the car rather than under.

need a voltage reducer for the fuel level sender and clock

need a low voltage sensor to operate a charge light since we're not going to use the ammeter. We'll leave the gauge in place though. 

Tomorrow I'll make sure all the circuits are where they need to be then I'll wrap the harness from the fuse box to the firewall grommet. My buddy decided he likes the look of the cloth friction tape the best, so we'll use that.

To be continued...

 

Greg

[Gregarious13]

I have started to clean up the dash wiring and clean the instruments and dashboard itselfe.

I took apart the gauges and disassembled them to clean them up. I'm not repainting anything, just cleaning and maintaining.

[Gregarious13]

I used a soft cord weather strip from home Depot. It's like dum dum but in a roll. I used it to seal between the gauge trim rings and the glass. It also dampens rattling.

[Gregarious13]

Also thought I'd show the fabric friction tape I like and will be using. It looks period correct. The tape has no glue on it but sticks to itself and is easy to remove in the future if needed. I usually find it in 3/4" wide but found 1 1/2" wide at Home Depot yesterday. The wider stuff will make wrapping the harness easier.

[Gregarious13]

I tried cleaning the dash knobs in CLR. I let them soak for about 10 minutes then scrubbed with the dish brush and rinsed clean. It worked out great! 

The CLR cleans all the gunk off the cigarette lighter too!

I think I'll use this on the rest of the dash chrome.

Here's a short video showing the cleaning action!

 

[Gregarious13]

Ok, I got a question about Voltage reducers for the remaining 6V items in the car. What I think I need is one  reducer for the fuel gauge, one for the cloxk and maybe one for the heater blowers (do I even need one for them?). Is there anything else I need a voltage reducer for?  

I think the Gyro-Matic solenoid and governor will be ok on 12V. I'm changing all the light bulbs. The starter is fine. Am I missing something?

Greg

 

Edited December 20, 2017 by Gregarious13

[Frank Elder]

You will fry the radio if you have one....wipers are they electric or vacuum?

[Gregarious13]

17 minutes ago, Frank Elder said:

You will fry the radio if you have one....wipers are they electric or vacuum?

Yes, there is a radio but we won't be using it, just the dial and controls for looks. Wipers are electric.