Just a blown head gasket, if I'm lucky

[DJ194950]

At this point if you are not experienced this problem before I believe that I would visit a few local machine shops and discuss your problem.

If you find one who tells you how he would deal with it and is willing to do the extraction of the broken screw extractor and bolt-( reasonably-Not cheap) - I think I would have it towed to him and repaired.

When he is done either have it towed home or take your New bolts or studs etc.parts, water/antifreeze, etc. to be done at his place and complete the repair there if he is OK with that and drive home.

My 1 cents worth.

DJ

[Flatie46]

You might try covering everything up. Taking a blow nozzle and blowing in the hole around the the broken drill bit at different angles with compressed air. Many times I've blown the broken bit out. ( wear saftey glasses) They usually don't wedge. If not  maybe even some penetrating oil and compressed air. Take your time don't rush. 

[Plymouthy Adams]

if I was going to blow a blind hole to rid steel out of cast iron, it would be with the ole oxy/acetylene torch...quick and easy.....

[DJ194950]

I was thinking the same way as Plymouthy, which is why I said if you are not experienced/ do not have a oxy-acetylene set up and comfortable using it.

If I was trying it myself I would use a small tip and heat the extractor cherry red and let it cool and repeat to take the temper out of the extractor and try drilling it out with a hardened drill bit, use lubricant and drill slowly.  If that did not work out I would again heat the extractor to cherry red and slowly open the oxy. valve more and more until I had a mini cutting torch and blow out the extractor as slag. Let cool blow out the hole and drill the bolt with a larger bit all the way thru the bolt piece (as large as possible without touching the block threads. Use a pick to remove leftover bolt. The perfect starting hole as mentioned before is paramount to bolt removal. If drilling was done off-center it can still be done this way but harder .

Experience can be key/lots of good luck can certainly help the inexperienced.

Machine shop recommendation was for the inexperienced/ no oxy/ace. setup/not comfortable to do this. Experienced friends to help can be very valuable!

Best,

DJ

 

[maok]

A few years ago I was having a slant 6 head machined at a respected machine shop, I had broken a few manifold studs in the side of the head, the machine shop outsourced the removal of the studs. Cost about $30 each IIRC.

 

 

[Hubler13f]

Well I got it! I let one of my stepson's friends come over and when his dad came over and I told him my plight, he brought back a couple of carbide bits for a die grinder. Hes a car guy too and has a 56 chevy and a 67 or 68 chevy truck. I ripped the head off and worked at it for about 30 minutes and the bottom 3/8" of the bolt dropped down into the water jacket. I could tell when i made contact with the broken drill bit by the bright orange sparks it made. Unfortunately I lost most of my threads but at least now I can drill and tap it to a bit larger size or install a heli-coil. All new bolts going in this time!

[Jerry Roberts]

1 hour ago, Hubler13f said:

now I can drill and tap it to a bit larger size or install a heli-coil.

 I am thinking a heli-coil would be best or you would have to enlarge the bolt hole in the head . 

[Silverdome]

If you don't want to use Helicoil there are other choices of thread inserts available. The ones we use at work are from McMaster-Carr and have tangs on them that you hammer down to lock them into place plus they have the install taps available. These seem to be more durable than Helicoils.

Here's a link. https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-inserts/=183eg63

Edited June 16, 2017 by Silverdome
added link

[Flatie46]

Make a stud that's whatever size you decide to tap the bottom and the original size on top.

[Hubler13f]

2 hours ago, Flatie46 said:

Make a stud that's whatever size you decide to tap the bottom and the original size on top.

This is very similar to what I am going to do. I checked again this morning and tested a grade 8 bolt at 70 lbs torque in the hole and it holds. I have about 2 to 3 full threads in the bottom, and half threads almost all the way up. So if I can find grade 8 7/16-14 all thread somewhere I will make a stud and use epoxy as thread sealer and screw it in the hole. 7/16- grade 5 all thread can only be torqued to 50 lbs, grade 8 to 70 lbs. If not I'll get a grade 8 7/16-14 bolt 4 inches long and ill cut the head off and thread both sides.

 

Edit: I called around and found some 7/16-14 grade 8 allthread so I'll be making a stud out of that.

Edited June 16, 2017 by Hubler13f
Updated content

[Hubler13f]

I have my stud installed and the epoxy is curing, I used the permatex steel weld epoxy. I probably really didnt need the epoxy but I wanted something to take the tiny bit of slop out.

Upon closer inspection I can see .040 stamped on each piston so i am thinking this engine has been dug into before.

[dpollo]

If you have not already done so, run a tap down every bolt hole.   That will allow every bolt to go down to its full extent without interference. None of these are blind holes, they all go into the water jacket except for three which go into the intake ports.

Once upon a time I drilled and removed two broken head studs quite successfully only to discover the block was hopelessly cracked along the deck line on the distributor side.   Junk !  but good practice.   I think we have all felt your pain with this adventure.

[dale]

Dont you have to put permatex on those bolt threads that go thru to the water jacket to stop them from leaking ?

Edited June 17, 2017 by dale
changed

[Hubler13f]

4 minutes ago, dale said:

If the head is warped 2 hundrend thousands Id say its unrepairable.

I know it sounds like a lot but if you do a search on here. Many guys have had as much as .125 taken off. That's why I wasn't worried about .025. I had it running before I broke the head bolt and had to remove the head. There are no signs of anything hitting.

[dale]

Just now, Hubler13f said:

I know it sounds like a lot but if you do a search on here. Many guys have had as much as .125 taken off. That's why I wasn't worried about .025. I had it running before I broke the head bolt and had to remove the head. There are no signs of anything hitting.

I dont think you meant 200 thousands...More like 20 thousands I suspect.

[dale]

My bad I didnt read it right..

[Hubler13f]

And an update on what I am hoping is the last of the Head Gasket Saga. The stud I made didn't hold, I should have known not to believe the rating on epoxy containers no matter what they say. So instead of pulling the head again, I tried putting a 1/2-13 bolt 3 inches long in the hole in the head and it fit perfectly. So I ran a 27/64 bit down through the hole and into the threads in the block then a 1/2-13 tap using the head hole to center it all and it went through like butter. I then coated the threads with  permatex #2 and torqued it to 70 lbs. So there you have it if anyone else strips a headstud hole, or gets a little crazy removing a broken head bolt its an easy fix to drill and tap it to 1/2-13.

Edited June 19, 2017 by Hubler13f