Brake Lights at the Tail Light Housings/Directionals

[Tom Skinner]

Gents,

I saw a set up this weekend at the Charlotte Motor Speedway Show where a friend had cut in a new socket on each taillight socket housing on his 1949 New Yorker, and sent the wires back to the center to meet/splice the Brake Light wire. In so doing that he had Brake Lights Lighting up at his Tail Lights when he hit the Brakes. Three Questions. One: Does one need to also change out the Brake Light Switch, or leave it alone as existing. Two: Can one use the 1154 6 Volt Bulb and just buy Sockets at the Advance Auto, ETC.? Three: Or must one buy the Brake Light Housing Sockets Like the one in the Center of the existing Brake Light Housing? I have seen these Sockets on Ebay and they are expensive.

Thank you for any advise in advance!

Tom

[greg g]

You don't need to add sockets.  You can just get twin contact pigtails and switch to dual contact bulbs.  Brake switch doesn't need to be changed.  If you have signals that complicates things.  I run auxiliary lights for great signals.  Motorcycle signal fixtures switched to 6 v bulbs.

[Tom Skinner]

Greg,

Thank you for the input. I do have directionals factory stock. So Brake Switch is good alone. Then are pigtails with dual contact bulbs still good, or must I run separate Light Sockets like my buddy Mike did on his New Yorker?

Thanks!

Tom

[greg g]

This is where my understanding ends.some switches power from an independent source some power through the brake switch and I can't figure out how they light the bright element for brakes and make the right and left flash but not the center one.  So you hafta understand that before you can decide how many elements you need to light up.  My switch is a simple after market one that operates independently from the brake circuit so my tail lights have dual filament builds that support running light on the low element and stop lights on the bright one.  Those are jumpered from the center brake lamp for power. The signal switch as mentioned only powers my added lamp assemblies.  Someone with a higher order of electric theory will need to explain how the other more sophisticated switches work to light up or inturupt the brake light for signals with brakes on while not flashing the center or the other side.  

Also I have powered my brake light switch independently with a new fused power lead from the battery side of the starter solenoid.  This takes the load out of the headlight switch, and makes for brighter lights.

[Tom Skinner]

Greg, Thanks for trying. I am still under the impression that two new Brake Light Sockets with Wires spliced to the Center Brake Light Wire would work at each Tail Light if I drill an extra hole at each Tail Light Housing and pop the Sockets with bulbs in to complete the ground. It sounds like there might be an electrical drain when hitting my brakes but I don't see how that would be possible with three Light Bulbs burning instead of just one. I mean how much juice can two little 1154 bulbs burn? I guess I'll call up Rhode Island Wiring and ask them how this is done. Thanks again Greg! I am unfortunately pretty dense with Auto Electronics. So I guess I'll contact the people that sell this stuff.

Tom

[Tom Skinner]

Rhode Island Wire is very helpful.

Tom

[Conn47D24]

Rhode island Wiring folks are great.

[Plymouthy Adams]

you need only to update your sockets to the twin pigtail be sure to index them correctly for a Mopar also as you socket is not indexed for orientation..make mental note of what element is contacting what wire when inserting bulb else your brakes/turn could dim on one side bright on the other and different flash rates...(current load dictates flash rat on the flasher).....depending on the turn signal switch you have on hand, you run the brake light through the signal switch as usually show on your install instructions as an additional wire off the stop light switch,and it controls the left right flash/brake light operation..to continue using the stop light that is center on your trunk, keep the dedicated wire from the stop light switch to this fixture.

Edited April 15, 2017 by Plymouthy Adams

[Tom Skinner]

OK Update! Marcia (Technician Extroadinaire) at Rhode Island Wire explained that with the 1946-1948 Chryslers the Brake Light Wire to Brake switch and Power is separate from the Directionals and Tail Light Harness. Therefore for anyone interested: One must find Connectors to Brake Light Wires in Trunk (Feedback from Center Brake Light Housing to do so, easy peasy) then unplug at Connectors - Pigtail into it with new Bullet Connector Pigtails to feed two new Brake Light Sockets (One to each Tail Light Housing), then drill for two new sockets at each Tail Light Housing (Being ever so Careful to leave enough Room for the Existing Socket and New Ones, (it tends to be a tight fit in these housings) and use the 1129 bulbs in them. Walla.  Brake Lights at all three Locations. The Center Trunk Light and Both Tail Light Housings. Much Safer travelling with Three Brake Lights Lit. Whether Night or Day travel most motorists expect to see Brake Lights Lighting at three locations. No changes to the Brake Switch is necessary, and this shall complete the project. I hope my description helps others wanting to accomplish the same.

Tom

 

 

 

Edited April 19, 2017 by Tom Skinner
spelling

[DrDoctor]

   I’ve only been following this particular topic as a sidebar. As I recall, this was discussed a few months ago. Anyway, to continue—I rewired our car (1946 Plymouth), and now when the brake pedal is pressed, the center light on the trunk lid illuminates, as well as both taillights. But, I never added another socket in the taillights. I just changed the single-pin socket out for a generic dual-pin socket obtained at my local auto parts store. So, am I missing something, or is the Chrysler wired differently than the Plymouth?

[Young Ed]

Just now, DrDoctor said:

   I’ve only been following this particular topic as a sidebar. As I recall, this was discussed a few months ago. Anyway, to continue—I rewired our car (1946 Plymouth), and now when the brake pedal is pressed, the center light on the trunk lid illuminates, as well as both taillights. But, I never added another socket in the taillights. I just changed the single-pin socket out for a generic dual-pin socket obtained at my local auto parts store. So, am I missing something, or is the Chrysler wired differently than the Plymouth?

Do you have turn signals? 

[DrDoctor]

Ed,

   Yes. But, since the car didn’t come with turn indicators originally, I’m using an aftermarket unit mounted to the steering column.

[greg g]

How are the rear lights wired to allow flashing when the brakes are on?

[Tom Skinner]

Dr.Doctor, You Sir are correct. The Chrysler is different from the Plymouth. I believe the Aftermarket system you have was the difference also. The 1946-1948 Chrysler Harnesses are different. The Directional"s Harness is separate from the Brake Tail Light Harness. So in order to accomplish Brake Lights at the Tail Lights - thus my explanation from Marcia at R.I.W.

Tom

[DrDoctor]

Ed,

   Thanks. The separate wiring harness for the two systems—THAT’s the difference. I really do appreciate your filling in these blanks for me!!! As for the aftermarket turn indicator unit—it’s just a cheapie mounted to the steering column with a hose clamp. Hey, maybe it was the deluxe version, since the hose clamp was included . . .  Nah, it’s the cheapie, since it doesn’t have the 4-way flasher feature, only operates the indicators for left or right, and only has one light on the unit on the column.

[DrDoctor]

Greg,

   I rewired the car using a Ron Francis Wiring “Git It Runnin’” 6v harness, using their schematic as the primary system, the original schematic as a secondary/supportive system, and a late model GM schematic as the tertiary/supportive system, which uses the flasher as an ‘interrupter’ (for lack of a better term) (and I’m just speculating as to the interruption function, too), for the turn indicators. I did have to disconnect one wire on, and I had to add a ground wire for, the cheapie aftermarket turn indicator unit in order to get it to work properly. The unit did nothing until I cut the wire, and then worked sporadically until I ran the separate ground wire (the cheapie unit was supposed to be self-grounding, but apparently the steering column wasn't sufficient to accomplish that), hence the additional wire. Now, it works just fine.

 

PS—Chris Latham at Ron Francis Wiring was incredible. He answered my telephone calls, or my Emails. If it weren’t for him, I’m sure I’d still be out in the shop working on the wiring. It been a few years, now, and I’m happy to report—NO problems whatsoever (the only thing I never completed is connecting the fuel gauge to the sending unit, I got lazy, and still haven’t done that . . .).

Edited April 20, 2017 by DrDoctor
spelling err

[DrDoctor]

Greg,

   PS#2—I forgot to mention – the brake light on the trunk light only illuminates when the brake pedal is pressed, and it doesn’t flash with the taillights. Sorry ‘bout dat . . .

[Tom Skinner]

Thanks Dr Doctor, you are so smart

Edited April 21, 2017 by Tom Skinner
spelling

[DrDoctor]

Tom,

   Thanks for the complement, altho’ I’m not sure I deserve it. Sometimes is just plain, dumb luck, and I’ll take luck, too. Anyway, I’ve never heard of Rhode Island Wire, but it sounds like they’re good folks to have on your side. I’ve been using Ron Francis Wiring for many years, and have had only good results. I guess it’s just who one connects with. What makes our car different is that it has several fused circuits vs on the single fuse at the light switch. Also, the light switch in use now is a contemporary one, and as it was significantly larger than the original, it wouldn’t fit in the original’s location, so I wound up mounting in the panel below the dash that the ignition switch is in. Different paths to the same destination . . .  Regards.

[Tom Skinner]

Update to all: I bought my Brake Light Sockets from mr.fifty (ebay) type B. The Wires Sockets (B) and Bulbs (1129) are @ $13.90 w S&H.

I did have to buy a $10 1" Metal Hole Saw to install into my Tail Light Housings. They look great and I hope they provide some safety.

I had to make a couple pigtails (two to one) to plug it up.  Thanks to everyone on the forum!

Tom

[DrDoctor]

Tom,

   Glad to hear that all worked out the way you intended. I’m sure that this will be safer for you, and provide greater peace of mind to you. Like I mentioned—there’s more than one way to skin a cat. Regards . . .

[medium_jon]

1 hour ago, Tom Skinner said:

Update to all: I bought my Brake Light Sockets from mr.fifty (ebay) type B. The Wires Sockets (B) and Bulbs (1129) are @ $13.90 w S&H.

I did have to buy a $10 1" Metal Hole Saw to install into my Tail Light Housings. They look great and I hope they provide some safety.

I had to make a couple pigtails (two to one) to plug it up.  Thanks to everyone on the forum!

Tom

How about some photos of it in action? I'm considering something similar 

[Tom Skinner]

Pictures before and after, Sunshine bright but you see the lights are on at both Tail Lights and the Trunk Light

[Tom Skinner]

Thats my wife behind the wheel hitting the brakes L.O.L.

[greg g]

Glad you got it sorted.  Just to be clear was your car when you got your car did it have the center stop light with running lights only in the fender lamps?  Or did it have running lamps and rear signals.  If the latter was this accomplished with separate bulbs or dual filament socket and bulb?  What you were looking to do was to add brake lights to the outer lamps in addition to the tail light signal functions?  If that is the case I now understand the concept of the extra bulb / holder.  This is basically the set up I employed thru the addition of the motorcycle signals with the extra signal bulb.  I had earlier modified my rear outer lights to hold halogen bulbs one 35 watt for running lights, and one 55 watt bulb for brakes this was done with hardware from Julianos rod shop.  Then I added the m/c fitments, switched the 12 v bulbs to 6v and mounted them on home made brackets for the rear signals. Pic below shows added assemblies for signals Amber lenses.

 

 

 

Edited May 9, 2017 by greg g