Carter B&B carb leak

[wdoland]

Just installed my rebuilt ev1 carb on my Chrysler. Started up fast, ran great then after about 4 mins it started leaking. Took the top of the carb off and adjusted the float thinking it was overflowing from inside. Tried it again and it's still leaking at the bottom of the accelerator pump where it attaches to the linkage. Do you think I need to adjust the float more? I originally had it where Mike's Carburetor and the specs said to put it   (5/64")

 

 

[Anayaltr1]

Im having the same exact problem with mine. I paid close attention and noticed once it backfired and gas shot  out of the carburetor gasket. I't probably has a vac leak. I'm taking the carb  out again and putting on some gasket spray sealant on the gasket and adding some sealer adhesive on the two tiny plugs that I took off the carb to rebuild it. It might be the problem as well. Mine ran fine just like yours for the first could of minutes then it did the same. Message me if you figured it out, hopefully we can help each other out. I bought an shop manual that is coming in the mail to work on the brakes.

Good luck, keep me posted. My email address is tony.anaya@sbcglobal.net

 

Thanks

[wdoland]

Correction to what I called the accelerator pump. I believe it's called the "Dash Pot". I have Fluid Drive and it's leaking from the bottom of that flat popsicle looking thing that comes out of the bottom and is linked to that 3 hole thing. (Hope I'm not getting too technical) Inside the carburetor, the flat piece is attached to the round piece with the leather at the end.

Anayaltr1, welcome to the forum! Hope you fix your problem. I'll post what happens with my carb when it's fixed. Also, we like to see pictures of your car or truck.

 

[Merle Coggins]

That sounds like the accelerator pump. If it's leaking from there it sounds like the gas level is too high. However, it may not be the float setting. It may be that the needle isn't seating properly and stopping the gas flow.

Are you running the stock fuel pump? Have you checked the fuel supply pressure from the pump?

[knuckleharley]

55 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said:

That sounds like the accelerator pump. If it's leaking from there it sounds like the gas level is too high. However, it may not be the float setting. It may be that the needle isn't seating properly and stopping the gas flow.

Are you running the stock fuel pump? Have you checked the fuel supply pressure from the pump?

Just to add to that,you don't need more than 4 PSI of fuel pressure. Put a fuel pressure guage inline and see what it reads. You can buy cheap ones at most auto parts stores.

[normanpitkin]

I have just done exactly this job ,the gaskets were shot and also blocked some of the passages.Cleaned out all of the passages using carb cleaner ,made sure the dashpot leather end piece was ok and buttoned it all back up ,result no leaks! Adjusted the float levels by bending it slightly ,it all happened as my new mechanical fuel pump was putting out more pressure  than the 6 volt electric one .I made the decision to go back to a mechanical pump as the crappy chinese 6 volt pumps are ,well,crappy.I kept it inline to use as a priming pump though.

[DrDoctor]

   When I rebuilt the carburetor on our car the first (?!?!?) time, I used lacquer thinner (which I’ve used for centuries . . .), and while it was better, it still wasn’t right. In discussing this with my auto parts store owner/friend, he recommended using PB Blaster instead of lacquer thinner and/or carb cleaner, saying it not only loosens the crud, but any corrosion that may be in the unit that of lacquer thinner/carb cleaner doesn’t. Granted, it sounded abit weird, and I’ll admit to being more than just abit skeptical. But, having little in the way to loose, I gave it a try, and lo and behold – it worked – the car runs great!!! Just as a “PS”: I tried this on a problem lawn tractor, and viola, it also runs just fine now. Thx.

[wdoland]

It looks like the only way gas can leak out is if it gets high enough in the bowl to escape down the shaft for the link that attaches to the plunger. When I rebuilt it, the float was adjusted to the correct spec but I have since bent it so it doesn't come up so high. I will check the needle and seat assy. to see that it's working correctly. 

Edited December 23, 2016 by wdoland

[Anayaltr1]

 

Wdoland, Hofefully that solves your problem, Keep us posted. Took mine off last night but haven't taken it apart yet. Going to parts store and picking up some gasket sealer spray.

 

Tony

 

[wdoland]

Update: Got the carb on, running with no leaks. Replaced the float with and old one I had that wasn't bent, checked that it was hitting the needle to shut the gas off and let it run for awhile with a fire extinguisher close by. Took ole Walter for a short run and now it's not shifting into 4th. (I always  start out in 3rd ) I think I have the spring and plunger over the gasket and not under so it's insulating it somehow. Too dark to see now so I'll work on it tomorrow.

Edited December 23, 2016 by wdoland

[wdoland]

Removed double post

 

Edited December 23, 2016 by wdoland

[1949 Wraith]

On 12/23/2016 at 3:23 PM, wdoland said:

Update: Got the carb on, running with no leaks. Replaced the float with and old one I had that wasn't bent, checked that it was hitting the needle to shut the gas off and let it run for awhile with a fire extinguisher close by. Took ole Walter for a short run and now it's not shifting into 4th. (I always  start out in 3rd ) I think I have the spring and plunger over the gasket and not under so it's insulating it somehow. Too dark to see now so I'll work on it tomorrow.

You should check to make sure the idle is low enough for the up shift to occur.

[wdoland]

Well it's leaking again. This time it's at the of the carb at the throttle shaft assembly. That piece that has the 3 holes in it for summer and winter settings. I wouldn't think gas would be running down that far unless something isn't right up around the top of the bowl. Should be a mist by then, right?                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        

[1949 Wraith]

You stated that you had rebuilt the carb. Did it leak before the rebuild?

After the leaking issues, when you had it apart again, did you check to see if the fuel needle is actually cutting off the fuel supply when the float is at the correct level?

[wdoland]

Don't know if it leaked before because I bought it on ebay. Wanted the correct carb for the car. (EV1) I adjusted the float and it was hitting the needle. Am I correct in thinking there should be only mist down at the throttle body?

Oh, and it was idling real fast when it started to leak. I didn't have a chance to make an adjustment to the idle

 

Edited December 27, 2016 by wdoland

[DrDoctor]

   Vaporized fuel, a mist, if you will, is what you want flowing thru the throat of the carburetor, into the manifold, and eventually into the combustion chamber. Raw liquid gasoline won’t burn. Rather, it’s the gasoline vapors, a mixture of minute particles of gasoline and oxygen, that’s highly explosive. And, it’s that explosiveness that we want to occur at the proper moment in time, inside of the combustion of the engine. If you’ve got raw/liquid gasoline going down thru your carburetor, the potential of it vaporizing somewhere between there and the combustion chamber introduces the distinct possibility of detonation, with commensurate potential for damage and/or severe personal injury. Find out just what situation you’ve got that presenting the raw fuel condition, and be careful!!!  Thx.

[1949 Wraith]

2 hours ago, wdoland said:

Don't know if it leaked before because I bought it on ebay. Wanted the correct carb for the car. (EV1) I adjusted the float and it was hitting the needle. Am I correct in thinking there should be only mist down at the throttle body?

Oh, and it was idling real fast when it started to leak. I didn't have a chance to make an adjustment to the idle

 

It still seems like the fuel level is too high in the fuel bowl, fuel should not be so high that it is leaking past the gasket. From your posts I gather that you have tried 2 different floats presently with one known good one from the last carb with the same results?

Leaving the needle and seat, I did not see a reply on whether you were using an electric fuel pump or not. If it is an electric pump you could have too high a fuel pressure causing flooding. If it is the stock fuel pump I would check the seating of the needle, maybe even swapping out to the old one as well. When you  have it apart again you can place and blow lightly through a rubber hose on the carb fuel intake to test needle operation. Showing that the float does open and close the needle in the proper range, especially stopping the flow.

 

[wdoland]

I'm running the stock fuel pump and I checked the needle when the carb was off. It does stop the air flow when I blow in it. I don't understand why the float is too high because I set it to spec the first time. Then I bent it to lower it and it didn't leak for a while after that. It does seem to me that the bowl is overflowing. I will try to lower the float again tomorrow.

Thanks for all the responses

Wayne 

[JerseyHarold]

Have you looked at the carb body to check for cracks?

[JBNeal]

I recall having a float problem on one of my carbs that I struggled with for awhile...eventually I examined the float pin lock and found that it was not staying seated...when I tried to adjust that, it broke...not having any spares, I improvised with a modified Dr Pepper can pop top respirator mask nose clamp to wedge the float pin in place...problem solved

Edited December 30, 2016 by JBNeal
corrected information and added link

[Jerry Roberts]

The next time that it overflows , take the top off the carb and see where the fuel level is . 

[wdoland]

Took the top off like Jerry suggested and fuel was way up there. Took the float out and just happened to shake it and there was gas inside. AH-HA!  Changed the float and started it up. Ran great, no leaks, ran for about five minutes. Turned it off and it started to leak. Heard a type of percolating sound from the air horn at the top. Looked down and saw a slow drip. 

I'm about ready to get a vintage 1997 Prius or Chevy Volt!

[1949 Wraith]

51 minutes ago, wdoland said:

Took the top off like Jerry suggested and fuel was way up there. Took the float out and just happened to shake it and there was gas inside. AH-HA!  Changed the float and started it up. Ran great, no leaks, ran for about five minutes. Turned it off and it started to leak. Heard a type of percolating sound from the air horn at the top. Looked down and saw a slow drip. 

I'm about ready to get a vintage 1997 Prius or Chevy Volt!

Fuel level still too high. I thought you had swapped floats before and had the same issue. The new float might have a leak as well, taking 5 minutes to absorb fuel and start sinking. Your heat riser working properly? Still with the weather this time of year probably  peculation caused by the fuel level too high.

Might be time to try a brand new float and float pin lock.

[Billy6]

As suggested earlier in this discussion your problem seems to be too much fuel in the bowl (excepting a crack somewhere). The cause is either: leaking float, bad/sticking/incorrect float pin, defective float pin lock or very excessive pump pressure. My personal experience with this more than once has been a sticking float pin. Make sure to use a new pin and that the pin seat is scrupulously clean. You can't tell by just looking at it. The tiniest bit of varnish can make it stick.  The percolating you are now experiencing at shut-down may be heat related in that the fuel is at the top of the bowl and any latent heat causes it to expand slightly and overflow. The only other issue could be the float level set too high, but I assume you've covered that. Keep at it!!

[Jeff Balazs]

When working on mine a while back I discovered that there are 2 types of float needle valves and holders. They need to be a matched pair. In other words if you have one type of needle valve it will not seat correctly in the other type holder. Some of the rebuild kits come with both types......and others do not. Not saying this is your problem......but it is possible.

Jeff