Running straight water in rad?

[Fastback50]

Thanks guys.  I will be working on it this weekend and will pull the exhaust and re-test compression with all plugs pulled (did each cylinder one at a time last time), and will try re-applying thread sealer to the head bolts dpollo mentioned.  Los, I did round up on a couple of the comp numbers--78 to 80 iirc

[Don Coatney]

[Los_Control]

10 hours ago, Don Coatney said:

All spark plugs should be removed when doing a compression test.

And you expect us to remember where all those cotton pickin wires go? Surely you jest!

[Don Coatney]

1 minute ago, Los_Control said:

And you expect us to remember where all those cotton pickin wires go? Surely you jest!

As you remove each plug reconnect the wire to the plug before going to the next one. Then you will know what plug the wire goes to.

[TodFitch]

28 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

And you expect us to remember where all those cotton pickin wires go? Surely you jest!

1-5-3-6-2-4 is your firing order and the connections on the distributor are sequential counter clockwise from the #1. That is all you need to know to put the spark plug wires on.

If you forget the distributor cap wiring direction, pop the cap and see which way the rotor moves when cranked.

A bit harder, but if you forget the firing order you can also work it out from knowing it is an inline 6 and there are only two possible firing orders for a balanced engine (hint: the pistons move in pairs with 1&6 together, 2&5 together and 3&4 together).

[Bobacuda]

Always expect something in an exhaust system that has sat for a spell.  When I fired up my truck after a 10 yr nap, it burped up a large amount of acorns and a mouse nest (I did not see any mice).  Impressed the heck out of my family

[_shel_ny]

My spark plug wires pretty much only reached the hole they went to, and basically stayed where they belonged when unhooked from a plug. As there was an emoticon with it, surely post 28 was in jest

[50fordtruck]

If I remember correctly (getting harder to do) manifold studs go into the water jacket, check to see if you have any leakage from these.

[Don Coatney]

28 and 29 simply banter and both posts are pretty funny

[dale]

What did the sparkplugs look like.  Should be toasty brown.  Their looks tell about everything.

[Fastback50]

Hey all, going to dig into this tomorrow.  Will give an update then.  Darned work keeps getting in the way lol.  

[Plymouthy Adams]

depends on what job you have, but before I retired...I would be so busy about  the house and shop I looked forward to work so I could rest up....now that I am retired I get no paid breaks, no holidays, no vacation, no sick days and no longer get paid to go on health walks...it is hard to escape all the things that need be done now...buttered side of the toast does not always face up..

Edited October 1, 2016 by Plymouthy Adams

[Fastback50]

Update:  Had a chance this weekend to get my car to an area other than my neighborhood and really let her run for a solid couple of hours.  Drove it as well (before AND after the brakes were fixed lol) and really got things to burn themselves off.  After a good 40 minutes, the majority of the smoke was clearing and had gone from more white to bluish.  As more time and runs went on over the weekend, the smoke dissipated to almost nothing except for some light blue after a cold start.  So, I believe the problem was just massive quantities of oil, ATF, anti-freeze, and probably mouse byproducts in the engine/exhaust.  I'm still in disbelief after all the time I ran it at my house with no break in the smoking.  Happily, all my worrying appears to have been for naught.  The car starts beautifully and I was able to drive it around a bit this weekend   The turning radius is surprisingly tight.  All gauges working except fuel, as my "gas tank" is a fuel can strapped to the grill for now hehe.  Anyways, thanks to all for the ideas/advice.  On to the next project: Gas tank assessment.  I haven't seen a replacement for under $300.  

[dale]

Spend the money for an " exact" replica if you cant find a good used one.

[blucarsdn]

If you did not check the block/head for trueness, as one of your posts to this treat suggests, therein could be the problem.
An additional problem could be the use of an RTV product as a head gasket/bolt sealer. Throughout the years I have encountered many problems wherein engines and / or transmissions have been assembled with an RTV type of product. I have formed the opinion that the RTV type of products do not compress properly when the gasket is coated with RTV,  A couple of additional questions come to mind: Does the engine in question have a 180 degree thermostat, and is the heat-riser in the manifold working? A cold engine with cold raw fuel being dumped into it will condensate very badly causing water vapor to drip from the tail pipe. I would be very reluctant to suggest the use of shellac, and/or chassis lube as a gasket sealer, these and their old school Shade-Tree remedies worked well on the old T's and A's, allowing the reuse of the gasket, however, not a good idea with modern gaskets, coolants, etc.  I encountered a problem with and engine that had been completely rebuilt by a well know master mechanic. The problem, excessive condensation from the tail pipes. In time water drop-lettes started to appear in the oil filler tube and on the dipstick.. After extensive testing it was found that several head bolts in the heads had very minor cracks in the heads. The heads had been machined, tested prior to installation. What to do? Discard the heads, no, we removed the head bolts one at a time, installing GM heavy headbolt washers under each bolt. The heads were retorqued, end of problem..     

[blucarsdn]

12 hours ago, jxc330 said:

Update:  Had a chance this weekend to get my car to an area other than my neighborhood and really let her run for a solid couple of hours.  Drove it as well (before AND after the brakes were fixed lol) and really got things to burn themselves off.  After a good 40 minutes, the majority of the smoke was clearing and had gone from more white to bluish.  As more time and runs went on over the weekend, the smoke dissipated to almost nothing except for some light blue after a cold start.  So, I believe the problem was just massive quantities of oil, ATF, anti-freeze, and probably mouse byproducts in the engine/exhaust.  I'm still in disbelief after all the time I ran it at my house with no break in the smoking.  Happily, all my worrying appears to have been for naught.  The car starts beautifully and I was able to drive it around a bit this weekend   The turning radius is surprisingly tight.  All gauges working except fuel, as my "gas tank" is a fuel can strapped to the grill for now hehe.  Anyways, thanks to all for the ideas/advice.  On to the next project: Gas tank assessment.  I haven't seen a replacement for under $300.  

Don;t waster time and money looking for a used tank, :TANK'S makes a direct fit ABS tank for the old Mopars.. I have one in my '39. The beauty of an ABS tanks is that they are not effected by the new unleaded fuels. My brother has a '58 Nash Metro that is all restored, very nice car. When the car was rebuilt about five years ago the tank was boiled out by a radiator shop, they then install an epoxy tank liner made by a well know company, Reputedly the liner is compatible with the modern unleaded fuels.. Wrong!! The epoxy came apart, contaminating the entire fuel system. The repair, parts, etc., cost my brother $1,000.

[Plymouthy Adams]

17 hours ago, jxc330 said:

Update:  Had a chance this weekend to get my car to an area other than my neighborhood and really let her run for a solid couple of hours.  Drove it as well (before AND after the brakes were fixed lol) and really got things to burn themselves off.  After a good 40 minutes, the majority of the smoke was clearing and had gone from more white to bluish.  As more time and runs went on over the weekend, the smoke dissipated to almost nothing except for some light blue after a cold start.  So, I believe the problem was just massive quantities of oil, ATF, anti-freeze, and probably mouse byproducts in the engine/exhaust.  I'm still in disbelief after all the time I ran it at my house with no break in the smoking.  Happily, all my worrying appears to have been for naught.  The car starts beautifully and I was able to drive it around a bit this weekend   The turning radius is surprisingly tight.  All gauges working except fuel, as my "gas tank" is a fuel can strapped to the grill for now hehe.  Anyways, thanks to all for the ideas/advice.  On to the next project: Gas tank assessment.  I haven't seen a replacement for under $300.  

ok...drink that beer for yourself.....you earned it by listening...

[Fastback50]

7 hours ago, blucarsdn said:

Don;t waster time and money looking for a used tank, :TANK'S makes a direct fit ABS tank for the old Mopars.. I have one in my '39. The beauty of an ABS tanks is that they are not effected by the new unleaded fuels. My brother has a '58 Nash Metro that is all restored, very nice car. When the car was rebuilt about five years ago the tank was boiled out by a radiator shop, they then install an epoxy tank liner made by a well know company, Reputedly the liner is compatible with the modern unleaded fuels.. Wrong!! The epoxy came apart, contaminating the entire fuel system. The repair, parts, etc., cost my brother $1,000.

That's good to know Blue, I've heard of that procedure and now know to avoid it.  

[Dodgeb4ya]

If I needed a good positively clean or new gas tank... I'd pay $300.00 in a second!

I've seen way too many so called clean/lined and or pretty clean used tanks cause customers so much grief.

[Fastback50]

3 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

ok...drink that beer for yourself.....you earned it by listening...

Will do

[Fastback50]

12 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

If I needed a good positively clean or new gas tank... I'd pay $300.00 in a second!

I've seen way too many so called clean/lined and or pretty clean used tanks cause customers so much grief.

Yes, I try to be shrewd with the $$ sometimes, but since it's a pay now or pay later situation, it looks like I'm going to have to bite the bullet for a new one soon.