1949 pilot house

[Los_Control]

You guys crack me up 

Finish my coffee and on my way over to play, will be laughing all day!!!

[Merle Coggins]

I got your back, Tim...

 

Merle

[ggdad1951]

Pffttt....those B1/2 grills are a flat wall compared to the dynaflow of a B3/4...

[Los_Control]

Molly is a spinner \o/

I just put the hand crank through the grill and with the plugs out, turned freely.I do have a battery on a charger , never did install it.

I saw that the ground wire was for a 12 volt system and not 6volt. And it was attached to the transmission, not where it belongs.

I pulled the distributor cap and was going to clean and reset the points, it really looked so clean already I decided to leave it alone.

Pulled the seat and looked at the rust on the floor, there is some but not as bad as I expected it to be.

Realized it has the soft/firm adjustable seat, has the instruction .tag up above the windshield for it.

Just a lot of tinkering and comparing notes between the 2 trucks.

 

Just not sure when will get back to it, in the process of moving a 8'x20' building on the property, is sitting up in the air on blocks and a trailer ready to back under it.

When the building is moved and back on the ground, then flower pot gets moved back to where the bed is, and then molly will be moved so is room to work on it.

As is, just barely enough room to squeeze by it and a pita to do anything.

 

But very pleased the motor is not froze up at all.

 

[Los_Control]

Not much done, but at least got it moved to where can work on it now.

I did get a battery in it, the headlights work nice and bright, but there is nothing when pushing down the arm of the starter.

This may be a wiring issue, but think it explains the replacement starter that has been sitting on the seat for 30 years. You can see the indentation on the seat still, kinda doubt if it will ever come out.

I did remove the carburetor, plan is to tear it down and soak it in water with dawn dish soap, just clean and rinse it well. Then air dry and clean the jets and passages and oil, reassemble. The carb looks good, butterfly, choke, accelerator pump all move freely, no rust and the air/fuel needle is in good condition. I just want to start and run the motor at this time to check the condition of it.

I have another motor that I plan to rebuild, and I suspect the carb on it is the better of the 3 I have. Will rebuild it.

 

I also pulled out the heater while was there, It had been bypassed long ago. Hoping will be able to rebuild the core, but more importantly the doors are rusted closed, it needs some serious loving and a lube job. I want to try my first attempt to using a tub of molasses to remove the rust. Has anybody used this method before? any tips can pass along would be appreciated. Not sure if it needs to be diluted with water or just straight ... hoping water. Also will check the fan to see if it works. got a few old Ford 6 volt heater fans around, pretty sure they are not positive ground though.

Am I correct in thinking the fan motor needs to be wired for positive ground?

 

Any thoughts on the replacement starter?

I have no clue on the condition of it, the gear looks good and no sign of any wear. I will inspect the brushes and clean it the best I can. Maybe rattle can some paint on it.

As far as I know, this could be a rebuilt or new starter, just rusty and dirty from sitting on a truck seat for 38 years.

I expect the brushes to tell me a story. Any tips what to look for would be appreciated also.

 

Here are just a couple pictures to show the real before work, now that it is moved to where can open the doors up all the way and get it cleaned out, on blocks and get to work.

Edited October 9, 2016 by Los_Control

[Plymouthy Adams]

which....may be a good thing....have you verified there is nothing down the carb or in the log that will get sucked into the block should it turn over....appears by looking the carb has been left uncovered a long time...but then a picture does not show it all

[Los_Control]

I that photo, I think I already pulled the biggest part of the rats nest out.

I will also add, I do not live where the truck is parked at. So I removed the carb, heater and extra starter and took them home with me to work on.

And just pulled apart the carb. Honestly there is just dirt and filth from one end to the other on this truck. Just getting it clean to see what is what, will be a challenge.

But the carb does look serviceable, and once cleaned and oiled will look much better.

Also my parts truck has been parked with the air cleaner on, is the carb I will throw a rebuild kit at when it is time.

[Los_Control]

Been awhile since I have posted in this thread. Was waiting til I gave molly a bath and then post updates. Had the pressure washer, hose, bucket of soap and rags and scrubbing pads, was going to do it right. Then the presure washer was out of gas, all the gas cans were empty. So a trip to town and was to late to get started. Now all the outside water is off for winter. Going to be awhile before a bath.

 

Was some major changes in the project. Due to a bad neighbour dispute, uncle is cleaning out his mess of old cars, and more then needed but he does not want his kids to have to deal with it.

While cleaning up, uncle sold off the green parts truck along with the bed on the other frame. I do have another place I can move molly to, but not the parts trucks also.

Good news is, the pilot house parts and a 67 chrysler 300, are on there way to our brothers in the UK 

 

One issue that has come up with the progress of molly, she is a b1c with a 5 on 5 bolt pattern on the rear, while the front hubs are a b1b with a 4.5 bolt pattern.

I am going to change the rear end to a 4.5 bolt pattern, had 2 rear ends to choose from and they are now gone.

In part of the mass cleanup, he also wants to get rid of a 1951 suburban. Put it on craigs list for $500 and not even a bite. So uncle has decided to remove the visor and a few parts, send the rest to the crusher.

I thought about it for myself, rebuild it and let the wife drive it. She thinks is ugly and wants nothing to do with it.

My question today is, does anyone know if I can use this rear end in the B1C? 

I would want to use the complete rear end to get the smaller bolt pattern and drums.   Cant find any site that gives the width to see if the same.

I have no clue if the axles on the B1C are the same diameter as the B1B or the p22 suburban.  Thinking about maybe using front bumper also.

 

[59bisquik]

I am not sure on the 49 but on my 54 the car housing and truck housings are different widths and the car has smaller brakes. I have a car housing that I sourced my 3.73 center section from. Maybe somebody else will know the actual measurement for a 49 or you can grab a tape measure.

[Los_Control]

I see, thanks for your input, so if the axle diameter is the same, I can just keep the hogshead from the car.

Now am thinking that if the car rear end is a few inches wider, And I am going with flatbed, 1" or 2" might not be noticed. And still work.

 

Sorry for being such a pest and asking so many questions.  The truck is actually part of my physical therapy.

Next month will be 4 years that can not work. Docs gave me some pills and they caused problems, was 3 years later figured out was the pills causing the issues.

I may as well been in a wheel chair. 5 weeks after I stopped taking the pills and started to feel better, I loaded up all my carpentry tools and was going to look for work.

Got hit by a drunk driver. Spent almost a month in the hospital, 4 more months using a walker. still going through doctors and lawyers.

I am really a slow worker about now and a broke one at the same time.

My drivers license expired while I was in the hospital.  Have not drove since the accident. So my wife borrows the father inlaws car, and drives me to uncles.

I work on what I can there.  and bring home to work on what I can here. In 4 to 6 weeks I expect to have a income of sorts, will renew my license and insure our mini van, things will go much smoother.

Just not that easy for me to pull out a tape measure and check myself. We have people coming in this weekend to help uncle in cleaning up, I need to act fast in deciding if I want to pay for the whole car and move it off the property, or just grab a few things before it is gone.

And these old trucks are great  therapy for the soul 

[59bisquik]

The car housing was an inch or two narrower and the perches were in a different spot. The axles did seem thinner out at the brakes, but it could of been that the seals were just worn. I didnt physically measure them once I noticed they were shorter. However, as long as the spline count is the same, they were the same size in the inside so you could use the hogshead for your truck for possibly better gearing. You will need to use the truck pinion flange. Check the ratio before going through all the work of pulling it!

BTW Before you get rid of that old Plymouth... what are you gonna do with those headlights?

[Los_Control]

If it gets to be to big of a issue, now may be a good time to do a ford 8.8 swap. I plan on being over there tomorrow and maybe can figure it out.

I dont know what will do with the headlights, I know is something special about them. Forgot what it was. I want to pull off as much as I can, possibly can place a add here to sell them for uncle. All he thinks he wants is the visor. I want the 218 flattie that is froze up, and the 3 speed trans and linkage, steering column and the ss dash goodies and knobs.

Just wont know how much time I get to work with it.

Only thing that was bad on the car is the motor froze up, probably bad crank. And has been sitting since 1965. Now the floors are completely rusted out and the A pillare is rusting and the doors sagging.

I will let you know if get some items up for sale.  A new neighbour got into a property line dispute with my uncle. turned into something pretty bad and cost my uncle several thousand in court to prove he was right all along. So now the new neighbour turned him into the county for having all his cars around. So next week the inspector is coming back, he will start a $500 per day fine, until they are happy. If this means sending the complete car to the scrapper as is, so be it.  `

[Merle Coggins]

You can probably use the diff assembly in your truck's axle housing, if the Suburban's gear ratio is more to your liking. You can also probably use the brake drums, to get the bolt pattern you want, and possibly the brake assemblies too. That way you won't have to worry about changes in width and welding spring perches. 

[Los_Control]

on my way over to see what can save. first got to get a 1945 chevy truck cleared off that uncle sold for $500  *sigh*

Throw a battery in it and a can of gas and will drive it on to the trailer.

 

[DJ194950]

Too bad to have to let any of the old Mopars go....

The 51 suburban could be parted out and sold  parts on Ebay for good buck.  The grill, emblems, fenders are 51, but many other suburban only parts fit them 1949-51, rear of the doors back and can be very hard to find.

Understand your ability to remove them is very limited at this time but if you could get it at scrap price and store until your recovery(), you could make some money to put to the truck!

Best wishes,

DJ