Distributor Points Wire

[50 coupe]

Hey Guys. I am replacing points, condenser, cap and rotor in my distributor on my 50 coupe with the original 218. The distributor is part number 1343554. I need to replace the two wires that you see here. The question I have is, where can I find a replacement for the wire that has the hooded U-fitting that runs from the coil lead to the points? If there isn't a replacement available, can I just use a regular U fitting or is there some special purpose to the hooded end originally used?
Thanks.

[Sharps40]

Just make a new one.   solder/desolder to reuse the connectors if you like

[mopar_earl]

The points wire can be found on eBay. Don't recall if the ground wire is on eBay.

Earl

[suntennis]

The wire going to the points is very flexible which allows the vacuum advance to move the point plate with little resistance. If you replace that wire, make sure it is as flexible as the one you are removing.

[_shel_ny]

Some reading on the subject here.  Some do's, and do not's learned.

 

http://p15-d24.com/topic/38409-acceleration-problem/?hl=%20wire%20%20distributor

 

And a shorter read:

 

 

http://p15-d24.com/topic/38718-small-distributor-lead-wires/

[choptop40]

The u shape just makes it easy to install , uninstall , if you go to auto parts store they should have these crimp on type , or as Sharps40 says just loosen the shell and attach new wire , a bit of solder....voila....

[desoto1939]

Another way to get the wires are to purchase a NS breaker plate for you specific distributor.  I like these because the entire setup has the breaker plate assembly. All new wires, points and condenser.  Then all you have to do is replace the entire unit and then rese the point gap.  Then you can rebuild the breaker plate with new parts and have a spare and keep it in your tool box in your trunk.

 

rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

[Plymouthy Adams]

tell  the man where you would get the parts to rebuild the one you just replaced with the NOS unit...odds are he can bypass the install of the NOS plate..

[desoto1939]

Plymouthy Adams,

 

You do not get my point. If he knows the Type of dizzy that is in his car and if he has the information about which specific such asIGS,  IAT or IAP plus the numbers after the Three letters than we can help him...

 

Most of these breaker plates are found in swap meets and also on Ebay.  This how I find my parts.  Since I have the various catalogs on replacement parts I have the numbers and that is why I collect the catalogs so that I can do my own research and also provide information. 

 

But I feelthat you reply back was a little tursh. You even know where he can find the parts if specific information is provided.  I was making a suggestion that if he could find a NOS Breaker plate then he would hav ehte parts and then could have spare parts.  Since these cars are getting older sometimes the parts can not be purchased at a NAPA store on the day that you need them.  Some searching on the owners part is also required.  he could also contact some of the major venders that are listed on the forum venders but he will also need to provider the model of the Dizzy also to them.

 

So if you have some information then please help the guy and not get on me when I try to provide an answer or option for the owner.  I can not provide a direct answer until I know the specific model for hi dizzy.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.comt

[desoto1939]

her is your answer to the wires:

 

If he has the  IGS or IAP dizzy then the two wires would be the Autolite wires   LW6  or Autolite number IGS-181  and LW1   IAT-14

If he has the  IAT dizzy then LW3  which is an Autolite # IAT-24R  which is the wire that has the clip on the ends  and  LW1  or IAT-14

 

If the gentleman sends me his home email than I could send him pictures of the wires  and he could search around or got to a napa store or what ever

 

and the breaker plat should be an IAT-2004RA based on what I can see in my Autolite catalog.

 

Hartung

[mopar_earl]

Don't rely on NAPA to have your tune-up parts in stock. My NAPA doesn't stock the cap, rotor, points or plugs for my car. Only item they stock is a condenser. This is a super NAPA at that. Advance couldn't even order all the parts. So don't think you can just walk to an auto parts store to get that bad condenser or points while your sitting on the side of the road.

The points wire and maybe the ground can be found on eBay. Don't use regular wire as it's not flexible enough. That plate has to move freely and not bind or stick. The original wires are very flexible and so for a reason.

Earl

[Plymouthy Adams]

My reply was not to rile anyone but I figured with the manner in which you replied that once you put in a NOS plate off e-bay or where ever, you mentioned you would then rebuild the original plate..in rebuilding these you evidently had a source for the parts especially the elusive flexible wire and if so, sharing that source would have been just as well served to him than say first replacing the plate with the NOS in your two step procedure you mentioned..  I was just mentioning he could avoid the NOS purchase of the assembly in lieu of just buying the flexible wire..

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DISTRIBUTOR-GROUND-LEAD-WIRE-1956-CHRYSLER-1956-PLYMOUTH-1956-DODGE-DISTRIBUTOR-/311233082044?hash=item4876eff2bc:m:m_3wgMqsE1xcMAugMughRFg&vxp=mtr

Edited December 25, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams

[desoto1939]

The reason why I said to purchase a Breaker plate is that you would then have all the components and they would be some what NOS. This way all you have to do is insert the NOS breaker plate and you have replaced the points condenser and all the wires.  Then you would be able to runthe car.  The you could search for the condenser, wires and points and then rebuild the old Breaker plate.  This way then you would be set for the next tuneup and just drop in the older BP.  It is an easy way to be prepared for a tune in the future.

 

I could not answer the question about the specific wire because I did not know the exact dizzy.  The problem is that everyone wants the older guys that have been collecting the parts and the catalogs to do all of the research for the newer guys and the new guys do not want to take on the job of trying to get the reference catalogs and do the leg work.  Since being in the hobby for almost 30 years I have learned a lot and have talked with the guys that have been ion the hobby for a lot longer than I have and they have all told me to get the reference materials because this is what you should have to keep your car running.

 

The new guys just want to go to the internet and want that to provide the answer but sometime its not there. So yes that is where us older guys can help but some ownership needs to be on the new guys to either purchse the catalgos or look for them so that they can be the go to guys after we have either sold our cars or have left the club or hav egone onto the big parking lot in the sky.  Knowledge can be passed along but it also needs to be learned.

 

Rich Hartung

[Plymouthy Adams]

I have said many time that to be successful in the hobby and keeping abreast of parts that one needs always be proactive and in the installation of troubleshooting that one needs to get the book, become familiar with the system and how it works not only independently but as it interacts in the overall scheme of things that is your running vehicle.  Those that run to the forums and eat at the hog trough of knowledge needs to understand the why and where the information comes from.  Other in doing so have learned it is often wise to put back in for the bit they take away.  In doing this the forum and the sources will be longer preserved, often this lesson does not get ingrained till a bit later in their active participation. 

[deathbound]

her is your answer to the wires:

 

If he has the  IGS or IAP dizzy then the two wires would be the Autolite wires   LW6  or Autolite number IGS-181  and LW1   IAT-14

If he has the  IAT dizzy then LW3  which is an Autolite # IAT-24R  which is the wire that has the clip on the ends  and  LW1  or IAT-14

 

If the gentleman sends me his home email than I could send him pictures of the wires  and he could search around or got to a napa store or what ever

 

and the breaker plat should be an IAT-2004RA based on what I can see in my Autolite catalog.

 

Hartung

 

You can also send him a PM. At the bottom of the message box, next to "Send", is "Use Full Editor", click that and add attachments/pictures.

[ptwothree]

One word.....Pertronix...........Get one, be happy.  My install is almost 10 yrs old. Haven't had the cap off since.  Probably needs a new rotor by now.

[50 coupe]

Thanks for all the helpful replies guys!! Looks like I have dizzy IAT 4003, part no. 1343554. I am out with the car now, about 60 miles from my home is where it is so progress is always slow.

Couple other questions: I need to rig up a starter button so I can crank it while I am in the engine bay and cannot figure out where to hook it up. I have the stock 218. Can anyone tell me this? Thanks.

Also, how do I remove the breaker plate? The serve manual isn't clear. Thanks again!

[desoto1939]

Ok since you have now identified the dizzy and this is what you need to use when ordering parts from sources like Bernbaums, Roberts. Mitchells then they can supply you with the cororect internal such as rotor, Cap points, condenser.

 

The easiste way to replace the breaker plate is to remove the entire dizzy from the block.  Byt before you do this you should mark on the block either with tape or chall arefenerce point that you can you to make sure that the body of the dizzy and the reference point on the block line up when you put it back into the engine block.

 

Then disconnect the vacume advance line.  Pull the cap  also put some masking tape on the lip of the dissy to  reference where the contact end of the rotor is pointing this is important so you will have the orientation back to the correct spot when putting the unit back into the car or you you be off by 180 degress.  I know I have done this so make the marking its so helpful.

 

Lossent he hold down nuts and pull the unit straight out of the block.  Put the shaft intot a vise not a whole lot of pressure is needed.  When looking straight down into the current breaker plate the will be two slotted screw one by the arm from the Vaccum advance and one directly across from this screw.  These are the two screws that you are going to remove.  But first remove the screws that hold the vaccum advance to the body of the dizzy. remove the arm from the pin on the breaker plate and put this aside.

 

Now remove the two screw that hold down the breaker plate the breaker plate then pull straight up. Insert the new BP into the housing insert the two screws and the install the V A.  The gap the points according to your correct setting for your car.  Put the rotor back on the shaft.  But prior  to that oil the little felt washer on the top of the shaft.  Also flip the oil cap on the side of the dizzy body and drop some oil into this to oil the bearings. Installthe V A

 

Orientate the rotor so the end that make contact with the dizzy is pointing back to the mark you made on the tape prior to removing it.  Now you should be in the correct orientation.  Then insert the shaft in the engine block. You might has to move the dizzy to the right or left a little to get the tab to fall in to the slot in the oil pump.

 

Tighten the hold down nut to the dizzy but no fully since now you will need your timing light to set the timing advance or retard. Set it so that you are happy with the way the engines runs smoothy.

 

Now you have replaced the breakers plate.

 

Now when at a sawp meet llok you NOS parts for the dizzy to rebuild the old breaker plate  and also get a few extra condensors and points  and rotors and caps as spares. 

 

Your car uses Autolite as factory equipment

Cap: IAT-1033

Rotor: IAU-1016A

Contact set: IGW-3028BS

Condensor: IAT-3067RA

Breaker Plate: IAT-2004RA  used on Chrysler, Desoto, Dodge,  Fargo, Ply from 1950-51  Dodge truck 1949-51.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[50 coupe]

Thanks Rich, that is very helpful. Thanks guys for the links to the posts from May and April of this year with part numbers and other info about the points and ground wires. Looks like I will need to use these or make the leads from the thinner wires referenced. The leads I made from 14ga wire are going to be too rigid for the application.