Tatback Posted December 5, 2015 Report Posted December 5, 2015 So, the car is all buttoned back up and washed. The radiator is filled, the battery is charged, and the oil has been topped off. It's time to find out if the engine swap, and the conversion from partial flow to full flow has worked. Now... I did swap the distributor over as well as the oil pump and timing chain cover and front mount. I've never had to dial in a carb or distributor... Is it something that I can do just by ear and feel or would I need a timing light? And if I have a timing light, where do I go from there? She's been all together since last weekend but I'm hesitating on turning the key after all that work. A little gun shy I guess. Quote
55 Fargo Posted December 5, 2015 Report Posted December 5, 2015 (edited) TAT, if your distributor is in the correct position, and your #1 sparkplug wire is indexed on the cap in the right spot, start her up. You can dial in your carb and timing with a vacuum gauge, by setting carb, setting idle to it's highest vacuum, then then back off slightly. Set your idle, do you have a tach/dwell meter? Next advance your timing to it's highest vacuum reading, then retard it slightly. I would go ahead first, and get it running, see what you have> As long as the dizzy is in the right way, and the plug wires from #1, are lined up, you should be good to go. If you are having issues, you can static time to get things going. Keep us informed of your results, and good luck..... PS timing light, hook as per usual, hook up battery cable power to a 12 volt battery if you need to, set timing at 2-4 BTDC. Just go start the engine, get the coolant flowing and burped, check oil pressure, and watch for leaks. Okay get out there and try it.... Edited December 5, 2015 by Fargos-Go-Far Quote
ptwothree Posted December 6, 2015 Report Posted December 6, 2015 Turn the key and find out! Fuel, compression, spark all at the right time..has worked well for a long time. Now, a loose timing chain can mess it up good............. Quote
_shel_ny Posted December 6, 2015 Report Posted December 6, 2015 (edited) ,,, Edited December 17, 2015 by shel_ny 1 Quote
soth122003 Posted December 6, 2015 Report Posted December 6, 2015 Hey Tat, I'm with Shel on this one. Pull the plugs and spin the engine to check and build oil pressure. If you haven't already done it, static time the engine. If everything looks good, put the plugs in and hook up the coil wire and let her rip. As previously stated use a vacuum gage to check engine condition. I used a timing light to set the timing after I got it running. I just hooked it to a jump pack and used it that way. I also hook it to my six volt battery just to check timing about every 2 months or so. It is a 12 volt timing light but works off the 6 volt battery, just the light is not a bright, but it will flash bright enough to see. Joe Quote
Tatback Posted December 7, 2015 Author Report Posted December 7, 2015 Thank you for all the responses. Today while my wife and I were at the movies, my bothers father-in-law came over and checked the carb and timing and had it running when we got back home. Finally took it around the block (3 times) for the first time tonight with my wife and parents. Lots of strange sounds and smells (and fumes lol). lots of smoke coming out of the breather cap. Could it be from sitting or could it be blow by? He said it needs a new accelerator pump (I just rebuilt the carb so maybe it's just not adjusted?) it'll slowly build up RPM's but if I try too quick it bogs down. When going over the tiny white speed bump lines (coming up to a stop sign) there lots of clunking and banging under. The rear brake was probably dragging as when we parked it, it was smoking and stinking pretty badly. Also it makes a slight thud thud thud from under the flow and seems to go away once the clutch is pressed. All the mounts are bad down there (all cracked and smushed)..could it just be moving around ever so slightly? He told me to check the fluid level and that it could be low and making that sound but I already drained everything and refilled it back in July. Quote
Tatback Posted December 7, 2015 Author Report Posted December 7, 2015 Oh but... She never overheated.... And the oil pressure stayed just above 40 probably around 45 Quote
Merle Coggins Posted December 7, 2015 Report Posted December 7, 2015 When you rebuilt the carburetor did you check that the passage between the acc pump plunger and the nozzle was clear? I had a similar issue with mine and found it all plugged up. After a good cleaning it now squirts good and works as it should. Merle Quote
Tatback Posted December 7, 2015 Author Report Posted December 7, 2015 Merle, I thought it was. Thought being the key word, so I'm going to pull it apart again and check everything. Maybe I'll find something this time around. Quote
DonaldSmith Posted December 7, 2015 Report Posted December 7, 2015 Before you take the carburetor apart, look down the throat and work the throttle linkage, to see a squirt, which would show thaqt the accelerator pump is working (unless your brother's father-in-law already checked.) There's also a seasonal accelerator pump adjustment at the end of the throttle shaft,Summer (short stroke), intermediate, and Winter (long stroke) Quote
suntennis Posted December 7, 2015 Report Posted December 7, 2015 If the accelerator pump is not working now, it may only needs to be removed and stretched. For a new accelerator pump you will want to apply some oil to the leather then with your fingers increase the size of it. This will make for a tighter fit in the carburetor and work well. Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 10, 2016 Report Posted January 10, 2016 What was the conclusion of this thread? I have posted on your "speedo" cable thread, but what happened to this thread? I am not being critical, but I do believe it is critical to do a follow up, and conclusion, this not only shows you have been successful, but it is available in the future to others who may be going through a similar scenario....good luck Quote
46Ply Posted January 10, 2016 Report Posted January 10, 2016 I've been wondering the same thing. Love to see an update. Quote
Tatback Posted January 11, 2016 Author Report Posted January 11, 2016 I'm sorry about that!!! The Chrysler has been out on 4 pretty good cruises. The switch over for the oil system was a success. I now have a full flow system and when cruising its just over the 40 mark, when I'm at a traffic light it drops down to around 15/20. The accelerator pump still is doing its stumble issue but its very minimal now and usually only noticeable when the engine is cold. I never did take it apart, I've just kinda hoped the gas would expand the leather itself lol. The only issue now is the horn doesn't work (not connected), the turn signal switch is giving issues (only works when it wants to) and the speedo cable is snapped (I have its own thread for that) But honestly everything has been a success. We went to dinner Saturday night and while we were paying the check a mini hurricane decided to hit. We found out that night just how much the windshield gasket needs changing. We could of bought a pet gold fish on the way home and kept it on the floor. I replaced the weather stripping all over except the front and rear window. Looks like I'll be doing that before thinking about taking it out when a storm is near. But it was a fun experience driving home in it and we had many laughs along the way. 1 Quote
Don Coatney Posted January 11, 2016 Report Posted January 11, 2016 Your cowl vent gasket may be more of a water letter inner than the windshield gasket. I don't recall reading particulars on your full flow oil filter experience. Get rid of the red wheels Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 11, 2016 Report Posted January 11, 2016 (edited) Lookin good my friend, 10-20 psi at hot idle will suffice, but usually it's in the 40 psi range, and on the road at 30 mph and above 50-55 psi. When you change the back window rubber, be careful, it's curved glass, and not that easy to just go buy another one. The center bar on the front windows is prone for leaking, just a heads up...enjoy and no need to be sorry, glad it worked out. The cowl vent, can be a source of leakage, and those red wheels, keep em if you like em they are kool Edited January 11, 2016 by Fargos-Go-Far Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 11, 2016 Report Posted January 11, 2016 Also see the radio is gone, and the shifter knob was clear plastic with a crown and silver bezel, they are getting harder to find but they are so nice. The floppy Windsor window cranks are also worth big bucks.. Quote
ssnowden Posted January 11, 2016 Report Posted January 11, 2016 It looks great. I like the red wheels too. I'll be glad to get mine in cruising around shape again like that. Quote
Tatback Posted January 11, 2016 Author Report Posted January 11, 2016 I changed the vent cowl gasket and I can see the water coming in from the bottom of the windshield and pooling and running down at the corners. It's pretty bad. The rear didn't really leak from what I could see but it is cracked all along. The engine isn't bad but it's far from new. As far as I know, and have been told, it's all original with no rebuild. But it starts right up, runs smooth, and gets surprisingly good gas mileage. And as far as paint... I'm not sure what I'll end up with, but that's how it came and eventually I'll do something different. The radio is actually sitting in the back of my Subaru with a box of misc parts that came with the car. I don't know if I have the mounting bracket though. The clear knob with a crown you speak of I have, it's on the cowl vent arm though. The floppy knobs for the windows are so hard to find, I only have one (drivers window) the rest are just the arm. Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 11, 2016 Report Posted January 11, 2016 I changed the vent cowl gasket and I can see the water coming in from the bottom of the windshield and pooling and running down at the corners. It's pretty bad. The rear didn't really leak from what I could see but it is cracked all along. The engine isn't bad but it's far from new. As far as I know, and have been told, it's all original with no rebuild. But it starts right up, runs smooth, and gets surprisingly good gas mileage. And as far as paint... I'm not sure what I'll end up with, but that's how it came and eventually I'll do something different. The radio is actually sitting in the back of my Subaru with a box of misc parts that came with the car. I don't know if I have the mounting bracket though. The clear knob with a crown you speak of I have, it's on the cowl vent arm though. The floppy knobs for the windows are so hard to find, I only have one (drivers window) the rest are just the arm. The cowl vent knob is clear to, as is the shifter knob. I will see what I have left on 46-48 Chrysler stuff around here, not much though..here was my car, unfortunately had to sell do to finances in 2013, owned the car since 1988. 2 Quote
Tatback Posted January 11, 2016 Author Report Posted January 11, 2016 The cowl vent knob is clear to, as is the shifter knob. I will see what I have left on 46-48 Chrysler stuff around here, not much though..here was my car, unfortunately had to sell do to finances in 2013, owned the car since 1988. Your car was absolutely beautiful! I really like the blue dash. Did you paint it yourself? Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 12, 2016 Report Posted January 12, 2016 Your car was absolutely beautiful! I really like the blue dash. Did you paint it yourself? Yes that is nothing but Rusto Blue, with hardener mixed in. The new owner is redoing the wood grain for it and the window garnishes Quote
soth122003 Posted January 12, 2016 Report Posted January 12, 2016 Looking good Tat, I like the red wheels and if you have the baby moons that will really set it off. Joe Quote
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