Phil Martin Posted September 11, 2015 Report Posted September 11, 2015 I was having a hesitation problem so I rebuilt my carb on my dodge. I have rebuilt a few carbs with no problem. After rebuild it started right up and ran good for a ride around town. Now it won't run and floods out real bad. When I hold it on floor to clear it out gas pours in carb and gets deep in intake manifold. Took carb apart again and checked float setting was in spec could not find anything wrong. Running electric pump with 4 lbs pressure. Does any one have any ideas why it would flood like this? Has new needle valve , accelerator pump cleaned it good. I'm stumped. Quote
Young Ed Posted September 11, 2015 Report Posted September 11, 2015 You say you checked the level but did you make sure it still floats? Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted September 11, 2015 Report Posted September 11, 2015 Phil; I had some very similar problems with mine a while back. It took several attempts to finally solve the problem. I had to keep trying different needle valves until I found one that seated properly all the time. Fortunately I had several to try. It was odd as most would work for a while and then fail or work intemittantly. I have a regulator and gauge on my electric pump which I have set at 3.5#. When this first happened I thought the regulator might have failed. Not the case. And dirt was not the problem either. Can't say for certain but I suspect that the compound of the material on the tip of some of the needle valves is to blame. Jeff Quote
Phil Martin Posted September 11, 2015 Author Report Posted September 11, 2015 I have needle valve I took out I'll try it. Thanks a lot Quote
50 coupe Posted September 11, 2015 Report Posted September 11, 2015 Don't know what carb you have but I experienced the same on mine after letting the fuel bowl run dry when working on fuel line. The little 'U' shaped clip that slides down on top of the pin the float pivots on, worked it's way up. Apparently this prevented the tab that contacts the little plunger from fully extending into the fuel inlet to stop the flow into the bowl when the float was all the way up. I removed the top of the carb and pushed the 'U" clip all the way back down which moved the bowl pivot pin back into place. I have had this happen a couple of times and that was the cause in my experience.Hope this helps. Quote
greg g Posted September 11, 2015 Report Posted September 11, 2015 (edited) 2X^^^^ Did you check to see if the float may be leaking drawing gas into it and preventing it from floating? Have you checked the pressure with a gauge or are you just relying on the one you set fo 4 psi? for a test try setting up a gravity feed temporarily. I use an old lawn mower gas tank that I hang under the hood, and feed the carb bypassing the fuel pump. If the flooding mitigates and the engine runs fine, I would then suspect the pump or pressure regulator. Edited September 11, 2015 by greg g Quote
Young Ed Posted September 11, 2015 Report Posted September 11, 2015 Don't know what carb you have but I experienced the same on mine after letting the fuel bowl run dry when working on fuel line. The little 'U' shaped clip that slides down on top of the pin the float pivots on, worked it's way up. Apparently this prevented the tab that contacts the little plunger from fully extending into the fuel inlet to stop the flow into the bowl when the float was all the way up. I removed the top of the carb and pushed the 'U" clip all the way back down which moved the bowl pivot pin back into place. I have had this happen a couple of times and that was the cause in my experience. Hope this helps. That little U should go from the pin to the top piece of the carb. It shouldn't be able to move up. Do you have a broken or incorrect one? Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted September 11, 2015 Report Posted September 11, 2015 I have needle valve I took out I'll try it. Thanks a lot It is worth trying. I think I ended up using one that I had removed during a rebuild. I suspect the tip material.......but poor tolerances could allow the needle valve to cock some and that could be causing the problem also. I dunno.....these days with all the parts coming in from offshore the simple things are not as simple as they used to be. We may have won the wars......but we are surely losing the battle. Jeff Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 11, 2015 Report Posted September 11, 2015 most kits give you both the needle and seat...change in pairs..do not comingle. Design and diameter/length of the needle could be cause for concern here.. Quote
Phil Martin Posted September 11, 2015 Author Report Posted September 11, 2015 Checked pressure with a gauge, changed both needle valve and seat, clip for float locks in casting,, float floats and doesn't leak. I'll change needle and seat back to old one today. Quote
50 coupe Posted September 11, 2015 Report Posted September 11, 2015 That little U should go from the pin to the top piece of the carb. It shouldn't be able to move up. Do you have a broken or incorrect one? The carb is original, I had it rebuilt a year or two ago so I assume it is what came originally in the carb but don't know for a fact. It isn't attached to the top of the carb. Not sure what kind of clearance there is from the top of the 'U' to the top of the carb. Next time I have it off I will check that out. Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted September 11, 2015 Report Posted September 11, 2015 most kits give you both the needle and seat...change in pairs..do not comingle. Design and diameter/length of the needle could be cause for concern here.. Exactly......and yet even the matched combo that came in a fresh kit leaked. Not sure if it is bad tip material or poor fit up but either way it is something we used to be able to pretty much count on that we can't any more. Jeff Quote
Young Ed Posted September 11, 2015 Report Posted September 11, 2015 The carb is original, I had it rebuilt a year or two ago so I assume it is what came originally in the carb but don't know for a fact. It isn't attached to the top of the carb. Not sure what kind of clearance there is from the top of the 'U' to the top of the carb. Next time I have it off I will check that out. Right not attached to the top but it should basically be touching the top/gasket. Quote
Phil Martin Posted September 11, 2015 Author Report Posted September 11, 2015 OK I put the old needle valve and seat in. Not dumping gas in now. Haven't got it to start but it was flooded pretty badhave timing light hooked up and it flashes so I have fire. Can't get back to it until Sunday see what happens the. Thank you all for your help. This is the worse old car I've had to keep running. Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted September 11, 2015 Report Posted September 11, 2015 Yes stuff like this is really annoying. I really think that it is because of all the junk parts we allow into the country. A lot of the replacement ignition parts are the same......and just don't hold up like they should. Seems like nothing much is made here any more and it shows. I know I have spent an inordinate amount of time finding workarounds for a lot of that stuff. Jeff Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 11, 2015 Report Posted September 11, 2015 I am not sure how many build or check carbs as they go but I never set the float level without inverting the carb and blowing into the fuel inlet to ENSURE that the flow is cut off by the float. It is a bit unhygienic it would seem but leaves you with peace of mind. 1 Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted September 12, 2015 Report Posted September 12, 2015 Tim; I agree but it doesn't alway behave that way for long. Jeff Quote
Phil Martin Posted September 12, 2015 Author Report Posted September 12, 2015 I blew back thru the needle valve it felt same on new and old but new one wouldn't hold back the gas. Hope that makes sense. Getting late. Quote
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