wayfarer Posted August 6, 2015 Report Posted August 6, 2015 Voltage should not be a deal breaker. It is easy enough to run two six volt batteries and supply 12v to the dizzy and 6v to everything else. You will need a 6/12 Series-Parallel Magnetic Switch or you can manually switch the charging between batteries. The magnetic switch is also most useful if you need to power a 12v starter in a 6v car. Quote
1941Rick Posted August 6, 2015 Report Posted August 6, 2015 (edited) Why complicate things with 2 6volt batteries and switches to charge....if its an issue just convert to12 volts. A lot easier....just change the gen to an alternator and change the bulbs.. Put a resistor in the heater circuit. Edited August 6, 2015 by 1941Rick 1 Quote
55 Fargo Posted August 6, 2015 Report Posted August 6, 2015 (edited) I find it strange no one has tried the conversion employing a Ford TFI module, at least to see if it works well or not. That conversion of course must be 12 volt neg grnd, but it appears so simple, and possibly reliable. it uses the OEM dizzy, the points merely act as a triggering device not a switching device, with on spark jumping, the module takes car of all that, the points should theoretically never wear out. I will try this conversion, and report findings on this forum.... Edited August 6, 2015 by Fargos-Go-Far Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 6, 2015 Report Posted August 6, 2015 (edited) I find it strange no one has tried the conversion employing a Ford TFI module, at least to see if it works well or not. That conversion of course must be 12 volt neg grnd, but it appears so simple, and possibly reliable. it uses the OEM dizzy, the points merely act as a triggering device not a switching device, with on spark jumping, the module takes car of all that, the points should theoretically never wear out. I will try this conversion, and report my findings on this forum.... this might be one explanation..... http://www.autosafety.org/ford-tfi-module-national-class-settlement Edited August 6, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
55 Fargo Posted August 6, 2015 Report Posted August 6, 2015 (edited) this might be one explanation..... http://www.autosafety.org/ford-tfi-module-national-class-settlement This is true, but on a custom application, getting 1 of these modules to stay cool, with a good heat sink, and the use of thermal paste may be a solution. I have no idea, as I have not tried this conversion idea, but it does appear, that OEM locations and subsequent replacements can and will fail when heated up... http://www.howardsupply.com/ford-merkur-xr4ti/ford-merkur-tfi-module-problems.htm I guess we both know how to do a quick Google search Plymmy Edited August 6, 2015 by Fargos-Go-Far Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 6, 2015 Report Posted August 6, 2015 (edited) have seen these things fail quite often...more to it than doing a google search but an honest look at the anger of owners, need for class action and the stalling of dealerships to acknowledge the fault of Ford sure speaks volumes to me......this device has not taken any industry by storm except for the replacement business......not one of the better mouse traps in my view....let alone a bright light moment Edited August 6, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
55 Fargo Posted October 17, 2015 Report Posted October 17, 2015 Hi all, been thinking about the possibility of running a Mopar electronic ignition control box with the stock dizzy. The stock distributor and it's points would act only as a triggering device, and would let the box fire when the points are closed not open. The control box would regulate dwell etc, the points may never burn out. Has anyone ever tried this? I also have an old stock dizzy apart, and ready to transplant to a / 6 dizzy, if I feel so inclined. Why bother, some may think or say, faster start-ups, better smoother idle, hotter spark, and possibly some better performance. The point of my post is not to dissect a pertronix, or Langdons GM distributor, or anyone's dual point style set-up either... Quote
soth122003 Posted October 17, 2015 Report Posted October 17, 2015 Hey all, I installed a Pertonix mod last year and it failed about a month ago. Until the failure the car ran great. The good thing is it has a 30 month warranty. The bad was trying to figure out why my car would just shut off after about 10 minutes of running. Using a meter, I traced it to the dizzy, after rewiring my dash and pulling my hair out for a few weeks figuring out the problem. After I reinstalled the points and condenser, it ran like a champ. Maybe I got a bad one, but I'll see what Pertonix says. Joe Quote
pflaming Posted October 18, 2015 Report Posted October 18, 2015 I like many others, I presume, have been reading the pros and cons on the various electronic distributors. I will change mine bit which one I don't know, but I do know that when I have one running nicely, I will then put it under the seat as a tested spare and get me a 2nd one going. I have concluded the one for me is the one I'm willing to fix. Quote
cavisco1 Posted October 18, 2015 Report Posted October 18, 2015 (edited) The class action lawsuit concerning the Ford TFI was with the first generation design that mounted on the distributor. They were horrible. The second generation design is remote mounted on a large heat-sink and has proven reliable. Like many things Ford, the initial designs are Beta tested by the customer There are also lots of reports that the cheap China modules from the discount parts stores are not to be trusted. Most of the Ford guys recommend paying the premium for the genuine Motorcraft part. I've personally experienced a high failure rate with China made HEI modules as well. It's definately worth buying the genuine OEM part. Edited October 18, 2015 by cavisco1 Quote
55 Fargo Posted October 18, 2015 Report Posted October 18, 2015 The class action lawsuit concerning the Ford TFI was with the first generation design that mounted on the distributor. They were horrible. The second generation design is remote mounted on a large heatsing and has proven reliable. Like many things Ford, the initial designs are Beta tested by the customer There are also lots of reports that the cheap China modules from the discount parts stores are not to be trusted. Most of the Ford guys recommend paying the premium for the genuine Motorcraft part. I've personally experienced a high failure rate with China made HEI modules as well. It's definately worth buying the genuine OEM part. Again a Ford TFI can be used with a stock distributor, as long as it is 12 volt neg grnd. The points , are then only a triggering device. Same idea as the mopar control box.... Quote
55 Fargo Posted October 18, 2015 Report Posted October 18, 2015 An interesting concept, writer exclaims works just as well as his dual point distributor... http://www.gofastforless.com/ignition/electronic.htm Quote
cavisco1 Posted October 18, 2015 Report Posted October 18, 2015 Like the HEI module, the Ford TFI has a built in current limiter and controls dwell time, so you can elliminate the ballast resistor (another potential failure point) and run a high output, low primary impedance coil. Quote
55 Fargo Posted October 19, 2015 Report Posted October 19, 2015 An interesting concept, writer exclaims works just as well as his dual point distributor... http://www.gofastforless.com/ignition/electronic.htm Just a heads up, tired this experiment out today. It did not work well, for me, engine ran but not very good, and hard to start, not much power. I hooked everything up as per the article, allowed points to be closed on the high point of dizzy cam. I certainly did not do well with this experiment......LOL Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted October 20, 2015 Report Posted October 20, 2015 Several years ago I tried something very similar on an antique M/C........and got very similar results to yours. The problem is the extended duration of the spark generated by the box or module. These modules work fine on engines with modern combustion chambers......and not well at all with softly tuned lumps like ours. But hey you tried. Jeff Quote
55 Fargo Posted October 21, 2015 Report Posted October 21, 2015 Got busy late in the afternoon, and made up an electronic distributor, out of a slat 6 dizzy. I still need to remove a slight amount of material to get her to slide in. Will report back if it works.... Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 21, 2015 Report Posted October 21, 2015 IF..would be relative to your own modification skills..the upgrade done proper is fantastic... Quote
cavisco1 Posted October 21, 2015 Report Posted October 21, 2015 With the electronic ignition dizzy (reluctor pickup) you can run the Mopar electronic ignition box or an HEI module. Here is a link to a very detailed discussion on the HEI conversion with links to other informative threads. The E-core GM and Ford coils are very hot coils and they work well with the HEI or Ford TFI modules. Scott. Quote
55 Fargo Posted October 21, 2015 Report Posted October 21, 2015 With the electronic ignition dizzy (reluctor pickup) you can run the Mopar electronic ignition box or an HEI module. Here is a link to a very detailed discussion on the HEI conversion with links to other informative threads. The E-core GM and Ford coils are very hot coils and they work well with the HEI or Ford TFI modules. Scott. Thanx Scott, aware of the HEI upgrade, have 3 Mopar boxes, using 1 of those.... Quote
55 Fargo Posted October 21, 2015 Report Posted October 21, 2015 IF..would be relative to your own modification skills..the upgrade done proper is fantastic... Yes it should work fine, but not ever having this distributor functioning, hopefully the pick-up and reluctor will be in good working order. The modification and swap went quite well, but one never know till it is "acid tested".... Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 21, 2015 Report Posted October 21, 2015 the system is so simple that a bench test set up is quick and easy and I will advise you NOT to power with a battery charger on the bench..the system is so sensitive that it will trigger on the 60 cycle ripple on poor filtered chargers....will sound a bee in bottle and knock the holy crap out of you with 12 volt starter power applied should you get hit...it will not be just a single jolt before you get off it... Quote
55 Fargo Posted October 21, 2015 Report Posted October 21, 2015 the system is so simple that a bench test set up is quick and easy and I will advise you NOT to power with a battery charger on the bench..the system is so sensitive that it will trigger on the 60 cycle ripple on poor filtered chargers....will sound a bee in bottle and knock the holy crap out of you with 12 volt starter power applied should you get hit...it will not be just a single jolt before you get off it... The good thing about my set-up, is if for some reason it does not work, have all wired for a quick bypass and pop the points distributopr back in. Having said this, things can happen, all is back together on the distributor, set reluctor air gap to .008, all looks good, have 3 modules boxes, 3 or 4 ballast resistors too...... Quote
55 Fargo Posted October 23, 2015 Report Posted October 23, 2015 Update:, this a success, finished removing enough material off the diz housing shaft, installed, with Mopar Module, fired right up, adjusted timing, and Voila, electronic ignition completed. Engine starts well, but always did, seems to idle a lot nicer, dwell is higher than a stock dizzy and points. Quote
cavisco1 Posted October 23, 2015 Report Posted October 23, 2015 (edited) Congatulations on a job well done. It will be interesting to know your thoughts on overall performance as you get more time behind the wheel. Keep a spare ballast resistor in the glove box. Scott. Edited October 23, 2015 by cavisco1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 23, 2015 Report Posted October 23, 2015 (edited) the key to ballast long life is to mount them in a position they do not experience lots of vibrations (loose mounted) or get water on them when driving or washing the car. Even worse should you open the hood, the water that may be collected there does not immediately pour on the resistor..this sudden cooling snaps the resistance wire inside the ceramic block.. Edited October 23, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams 1 Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.