pflaming Posted April 11, 2015 Report Posted April 11, 2015 How difficult would it be to make spark plug and distributor coil wires. Might be better than what is available today and maybe even save me a few $$ for my paint budget.' Quote
Don Coatney Posted April 11, 2015 Report Posted April 11, 2015 It would take a heat source round mold and rubber curing process. This all will also increase the risk of a garage fire. You would be better off to go to the farm store and buy a set of tractor plug wires. 2 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 11, 2015 Report Posted April 11, 2015 PP..paint..new art project...maybe a paint by number Pinkie and Blue Boy...with your past experiences and the very affordability of plug wires...spend the dime and arrive on time.... 2 Quote
TodFitch Posted April 11, 2015 Report Posted April 11, 2015 It would take a heat source round mold and rubber curing process. This all will also increase the risk of a garage fire. You would be better off to go to the farm store and buy a set of tractor plug wires. If you crimp on your own metal terminators then there is no need to mold and vulcanize rubber. But then you have to purchase bulk spark plug wire, the spark plug ends, the distributor ends and distributor boots. In the end, it will take longer to find the parts and they will probably cost more. So I agree that the cheapest and easiest way to get a good set of high tension ignition wires is to buy a copper core universal set like those Don pictured. On a slightly off topic question, what is the best way to clean spark plugs? I had AC R45 plugs in the car but I was having some loss of power issues and when I pulled them they needed cleaning. Good color and all that, just some build up that could contribute to less than perfect ignition. Local store did not have enough R45 or R46 plugs in stock for me so I got the Champion J11 plugs you see in the photo. Between various adjustments and new plugs the power seems to be back but I'd like to clean up the AC R45 plugs for reuse. I see on the Tech film strip about performance over at the Imperial site that Chrysler told their mechanics to use a spark plug cleaning machine but cautioned not to leave them too long as it could damage the porcelain. I've seen other recommendations saying never to use a media blasting type cleaner as it not only can damage the porcelain but leave debris in between the insulator and the shell. What do you do? 1 Quote
Desotodav Posted April 11, 2015 Report Posted April 11, 2015 How difficult would it be to make spark plug and distributor coil wires. Might be better than what is available today and maybe even save me a few $$ for my paint budget.' I made my own Paul. I was fortunate enough to know a guy who had all of the required components, but he has since sold out of the business. The cost per complete set of wires (from memory) was around $40... and then there was the cost of the crimping tool. 1 Quote
JBNeal Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 I recommend them copper core universal wire sets, they have better response than the universal wire sets designed for 12V systems, in hot or cold weather 1 Quote
Don Coatney Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 How difficult would it be to make spark plug and distributor coil wires. Might be better than what is available today and maybe even save me a few $$ for my paint budget.' Remember PP said he wanted to MAKE spark plug wires. He did not say he wanted to simply crimp the ends on. Quote
_shel_ny Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 (edited) How difficult would it be to make spark plug and distributor coil wires. Might be better than what is available today and maybe even save me a few $$ for my paint budget.' Bulk wire is presently on sale down at Big Vals Auto (NAPA). In stock, by the foot for $0.64/ft. (BEL 734803) You can reserve online, and save 10%. Other wire available on sale, special order.(if they are like the NAPA here for special order, you will need to buy the entire spool) Terminals are in stock @ $0.45 ea., also on sale. Then the end boots. Time to measure, and multiply. Then of course there is always the satisfaction factor in having made them yourself. Anyone can go buy a finished car/truck. Not everyone can build/repair one. (build/repair to the degree that they desire) EDIT: If you do your own you can do them in red, white, and blue Edited April 12, 2015 by shel_ny 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 I figure a stroll around the junk yard with a tape measure you can find a set of right length....that way your truck will not have the patina affected in any adverse manner by installing new products...you could run the risk of having poorer performance..but as it is often towed and/or flat bedded..don't see any real negatives here..just throwing out a suggestion.. Quote
jeffsunzeri Posted April 13, 2015 Report Posted April 13, 2015 (edited) "How difficult would it be to make spark plug and distributor coil wires. Might be better than what is available today and maybe even save me a few $$ for my paint budget." On a scale of 1 - 10, it's probably a number 3 task, where doing an automatic transmission overhaul to new specs might be a 10, and changing a spark plug on a flathead Plymouth would be a 1. You can get better quality plug wire than is generally available in kits when you buy in bulk. I prefer Packard 440 cable for older cars and trucks. Rubber boots of various configurations are available as noted above, and you will get a better look than using those available in kits meant for V-8's. Installing the terminals is made easier and a professional job can be done using the proper crimping plier, a necessary expense I feel. Finally, for cleaning spark plugs, a professional spark plug cleaner-tester is usually available at most aviation engine shops. Aviation plugs are frequently cleaned and tested rather than replaced due to cost of new plugs. Most all of the cleaners use a rubber seal appropriate to the spark plug size (18mm or 14mm) to accommodate either automotive or aviation plugs. The machines do an excellent job, but are very costly to purchase. In my shop I charge $1 to clean and test an automotive plug. Edited April 13, 2015 by jeffsunzeri 1 Quote
jeffsunzeri Posted April 14, 2015 Report Posted April 14, 2015 "I see on the Tech film strip about performance over at the Imperial site that Chrysler told their mechanics to use a spark plug cleaning machine but cautioned not to leave them too long as it could damage the porcelain. I've seen other recommendations saying never to use a media blasting type cleaner as it not only can damage the porcelain but leave debris in between the insulator and the shell." Spark plug cleaning machines use an abrasive to clean the tip of the plug. The (best) abrasive is supplied by Champion and is meant specifically for plug cleaning. The machine also provides a step for cleaning the tip after the abrasive blast to make sure no abrasive remains. The machines provide testing apparatus which supplies voltage to the plug while the plug tip is in a pressurized chamber. We're not talking about the under-$40 'cleaners'. Quote
Don Coatney Posted April 14, 2015 Report Posted April 14, 2015 "I see on the Tech film strip about performance over at the Imperial site that Chrysler told their mechanics to use a spark plug cleaning machine but cautioned not to leave them too long as it could damage the porcelain. I've seen other recommendations saying never to use a media blasting type cleaner as it not only can damage the porcelain but leave debris in between the insulator and the shell." Spark plug cleaning machines use an abrasive to clean the tip of the plug. The (best) abrasive is supplied by Champion and is meant specifically for plug cleaning. The machine also provides a step for cleaning the tip after the abrasive blast to make sure no abrasive remains. The machines provide testing apparatus which supplies voltage to the plug while the plug tip is in a pressurized chamber. We're not talking about the under-$40 'cleaners'. Interesting information. Thanks for posting. I assume you have purchased one of these high dollar spark plug cleaning machines using the correct and approved media so as to not damage the porcelain. How many miles/years are you now getting on your correctly cleaned spark plugs? I am curious just how cost effective it is to buy such a cleaning machine???? Quote
TodFitch Posted April 14, 2015 Report Posted April 14, 2015 Interesting information. Thanks for posting. I assume you have purchased one of these high dollar spark plug cleaning machines using the correct and approved media so as to not damage the porcelain. How many miles/years are you now getting on your correctly cleaned spark plugs? I am curious just how cost effective it is to buy such a cleaning machine???? Sounds like he may have access to one as an aircraft mechanic where cleaning spark plugs is apparently standard practice. Quote
jeffsunzeri Posted April 15, 2015 Report Posted April 15, 2015 (edited) "Sounds like he may have access to one as an aircraft mechanic where cleaning spark plugs is apparently standard practice." Correct. "How many miles/years are you now getting on your correctly cleaned spark plugs? I am curious just how cost effective it is to buy such a cleaning machine????" In vintage automobile applications, it's not cost effective at all. I don't replace the plugs in the flathead until the spark plug body is badly corroded. I keep several sets of cleaned plugs on hand and just switch them out from the "to be cleaned" bucket to the "tested and ready to install" bucket. I never throw out old plugs anymore until I've inspected them and run them through the cleaner/tester. I do maintain quite a few old engines, so it works out well for me. In vintage motorcycle applications it seems like I switch out plugs about every 1,000 miles, sometimes more (a lot more) depending on what type of bike, engine and application. Most of the aircraft engines I support use either 14 or 18 spark plugs per engine, and some are twin engine airplanes. The cost of each spark plug is about $30. Without cleaning, each plug would require replacement about every 100 - 150 hours or so. With cleaning, 500 to 700 hours or more of service is common. Champion charges about $3,500 for their current machine, other brands can be as low as $600. Abrasive runs $10-20 a bag. Being a restoration guy, I bought an old inoperable Champion unit off eBay for $100 or so and restored it about 10 years ago. Prior to that I used one in a friends shop. It's a great tool. Edited April 15, 2015 by jeffsunzeri 1 Quote
casper50 Posted April 25, 2015 Report Posted April 25, 2015 I made mine with cloth covered 7mm wire bought off ebay. The ends were also bought off of ebay. Quote
JD luxury liner Posted June 1, 2015 Report Posted June 1, 2015 how long did you run those champion plugs before you replaced them !!! Quote
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