Conn47D24 Posted January 16, 2015 Report Posted January 16, 2015 First time reaching out for help here. I have my drive shaft cleaned up and my machine shop pressed out the old pins and pressed in the new ones. Came home to install the roller bearings etc. Got the new bearings on the pins ( without loosing any of the tiny rolers) place the spring washer and end caps on. The assembely will NOT slide into the housing ! It's beyond tight. The new caps are visibaly larger than the old ones, but I've tried the old ones and they won't clear the housing either. Could the new pins I had pressed in be too long by a hair ? Anyone else run across this ? Thanks! Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 16, 2015 Report Posted January 16, 2015 There are three different sized Ball and Trunnion kits depending and year and model of Plymouth Dodge and Chrysler. You need to look at your old parts to determine the problem. Quote
desoto1939 Posted January 16, 2015 Report Posted January 16, 2015 Someone elase in the club had a similar issue and the pin was to long they cut it down a little and then the end tabs fit. There are specific Detroit Pin And Trunion housings and repair kits that fit your car. Do you know the kit number that you used. I have a U joint book and I might have a lisiting for your car. Will need to know your car make and year. Some housing are smaller in size so might have gotten the wrong housing. Can you measure the distance from side to side on the flange of the unit and also the total height onthe housing. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 16, 2015 Report Posted January 16, 2015 I will say on new kits... you must align and work the trunnion housing over the pin and oval endcaps by twisting and rocking ...sometimes taking quite a bit of effort. I would still make sure the new parts measure the same as the old.. Quote
Conn47D24 Posted January 16, 2015 Author Report Posted January 16, 2015 Thanks guys ! I will keep trying, mean time I have emailed Chis , at Andy Bernbaum to see if these 2.5 " pins are correct. I left the old ones at the shop and he is looking for them to measure.. Stay tuned ! Quote
desoto1939 Posted January 16, 2015 Report Posted January 16, 2015 Thanks guys ! I will keep trying, mean time I have emailed Chis , at Andy Bernbaum to see if these 2.5 " pins are correct. I left the old ones at the shop and he is looking for them to measure.. Stay tuned ! What rear car is these u joints for I have several kits and I can check my kits and also my U joint catalog. But need to know the year and model of your car or truck. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com Quote
Frank Elder Posted January 17, 2015 Report Posted January 17, 2015 What rear car is these u joints for I have several kits and I can check my kits and also my U joint catalog. But need to know the year and model of your car or truck. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com His name is Con47D24 so I think it is safe to assume he has a 1947 D-24............. 1 Quote
desoto1939 Posted January 17, 2015 Report Posted January 17, 2015 Ok I just miced a current pin in a spare drive shaft for my 39 Desoto that also used the Detroit pin and trunion 114-52 which also would be the same for the Dodge for the 47. The pin length is 2 21/32 from end to end without the end pins. Also the body diameter for metal housing your car should be 3 5/8 which is the 4200 series for your car. Rich Hartung 1 Quote
desoto1939 Posted January 17, 2015 Report Posted January 17, 2015 (edited) here are some pictures of the 4200 series Detroit Housing and Kit and then pin and the pin with the end caps and springs on them insterted into the housing with measurements. The housing at the flange diameter is 3 5/8 by 3 inches tall. 1. The first picture show the pin with the end caps and flat spring washer installed. I just pressed the pins and the unit into the hosuing with no effort at all It slide right in without any effort and any lubricant. 2. 3rd picture show the distance from side to side of the inside 3 1/32 3. 4th picture is the pin length 2 21/32 4. 5 th picture is the pin with the end caps and spring washers in the micrometer without any real pressure on the ends 3 3/64 5. 6th picture is of the repair kit that the components were taken from These are the measurements that you should have on your unit. There were three series of U joint bodies: 4100 the body flange diam is 3 3/8 inches 4200 body flange diam is 3 5/8 inches You use the 4200 Detroit metal housing. 4400 body diam is 4 inches so the pin will be a different length based on the series that you are using. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com cell 484-431-8157 Edited January 17, 2015 by desoto1939 2 Quote
Conn47D24 Posted January 24, 2015 Author Report Posted January 24, 2015 Sorry I've been away from the forum ( and this problem ) . Thanks everyone for jumping into action to help me. Well I'm making a real mess out of this. Grease evrywhere and I've taken the caps and roller balls out several times. The pins, WITH the roller balls fit into the housing just fine. THen I add ONE end cap and still fine. 2nd end cap makes the whole thing too big to fit. Going to retreive and measure the old pins tomorrow, finally. we'll see. Note here: I am using the old end caps as the new ones are visibally larger. Rich I will use these measurements against yours and see whee I am then. THANK YOU Seems to be that the new pins are just too long. Clay Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 24, 2015 Report Posted January 24, 2015 If the new cross pin buttons (caps) are bigger in size than to original ones you most likely have the wrong size rebuild kit. There also is a wave washer that is between the pin end and button or cap as you call it. 1 Quote
laynrubber Posted February 18, 2015 Report Posted February 18, 2015 This is timely as I just started to open mine up, I was puzzled on how it came apart after the rollers were removed. I see the pin now needs to be pressed out. Slight high jack here...... Has anyone drilled and installed a grease zerk on the housing before ? I think it would be handy to be able to pump grease in there on ever odd year Quote
Niel Hoback Posted February 18, 2015 Report Posted February 18, 2015 (edited) That's not a bad idea at all, however, if you fill it with CV joint grease it will most likely last forever as long as the boot stays intact. I wouldn't use a heavy chassis grease because it probably wouldn't travel around in the housing to keep the balls and needle bears lubed where a lighter grease could flow in and out. Edited February 18, 2015 by Niel Hoback Quote
Conn47D24 Posted February 24, 2015 Author Report Posted February 24, 2015 OK, FINALLY DONE ! The new pins received from AB and were pressed in today. Dry fitted the end caps into housing and smooth fit. Came home and finished. New roller bearings, washers, spring washer and caps. Greased up, and slid right into the housngs ! First set must have been a bad bathch from the supplier. Not only were the pins approx. 2mm too long, but too snug in diameter as well. Roller bearings were way too snug. All fixed now. Smooth fit and operation. Thank God it's winter and it was a basement project not a garage nightmare. Thanks to you all here for the advise and support. Clay PS: a good machine shop guy is invaluable to this process. Good thing I found one. Rob Vitalteti Thunder Performance Millord Connecticut. 203-877-9189 Quote
desoto1939 Posted February 25, 2015 Report Posted February 25, 2015 Rob: Glad that you got the right parts. Hope the measurements that I took for you and the pictures helped to get your u joints rebuilt. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com Quote
Conn47D24 Posted March 21, 2015 Author Report Posted March 21, 2015 Rich, you were a big help. I used your info when I was communicating with Andy Bernbaum. The first kit I had was just out of spec. Pins 2mm too long, and the caps were too big on the top of t he arc. The knowledge base you have is amazing! Hard earned I am sure. on the next step. Clay Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted March 22, 2015 Report Posted March 22, 2015 (edited) The press installer should have checked the parts before pressing the new pins ect. Would have saved you some time and effort. You finally got it done! Edited March 22, 2015 by Dodgeb4ya Quote
laynrubber Posted April 14, 2015 Report Posted April 14, 2015 I received my front and rear CV joints recently $$$$ , got the old ones removed but before I reassemble...... Any pointers ? I read that the pins have to centered for length or a vibration will occur, any tips for installing the boots, that look too small to fit. Quote
desoto1939 Posted April 14, 2015 Report Posted April 14, 2015 Now that you have removed the pins and the metal housing you are ready to clean the entire driveshaft. Put the boot on first and not not put the clamps on. Then put the metal housing on the shaft and then have the pins installed. If you have the housing already off the before reassembly check to see if a machine shop can tap in a zerk fitting on the housing so that you can use a lube gun to put grease into the housing. Rich HArtung Quote
nonstop Posted April 14, 2015 Report Posted April 14, 2015 Will adding a zerk throw off the balance? Quote
desoto1939 Posted April 14, 2015 Report Posted April 14, 2015 no it is so small that it will not affect the balance. The zerk fitting is in the metal housing of the U joint. This would permit you to lub the ujoint. I have a couple of these joint hosuing with the zerk fitting already drilled into the unit. rich hartung Quote
TodFitch Posted April 14, 2015 Report Posted April 14, 2015 Will adding a zerk throw off the balance? Not much. But I don't think it is too big a deal to leave the grease fittings off: With the greases they had available 80 years ago they called for adding a bit of grease every 10,000 miles. If you put modern CV grease in there and have good boots on you can probably go forever without having to grease them. How often do you grease the CV joints on a modern car? 1 Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.