removing wheel centering pins from my P10 brake drums

[Cpt.Fred]

hi everyone,

 

haven't been here in a while, hope you're all fine!

 

i'm still running the P10 without major troubles here, though it was a bit less this year

because i discovered the joys of motorcycling. but old rusty is still in service whenever i find the time.

 

 

i just got my hands on some 15" fomoco wheels and wanted to try them on today,

but found that i couldn't because of the centering pins on the mopar brake drums.

 

my question is, can i remove those without getting into trouble?

personally i think i can, but i thought i'd ask anyway to be sure.

anyone here done this before?

 

all the best from berlin,

 

fred

Edited December 12, 2014 by Cpt.Fred

[Plymouthy Adams]

yes...but before you do..ensure that the later model wheels can be firmly secured to the drums with wheel bolts...often if allow the boss is a bit thicker...you need to penetrate the hub thread section by one of two thread os the stud to ensure full clamping force...just a heads up..your fomoco wheel could be steel..and second item on the agenda...are they cetric tot he hub as they should be...?

[Cpt.Fred]

centric to the hub... well, i think so. but i cannot really try untill i put them on, and for that i need to get rid of the pins.

they're showbox rims, i think, or maybe a bit later. the wheel bolts should work straight away. but i'll go and measure everything

to be sure. thanks for the heads up!

[Don Coatney]

I would suggest you remove the centering pins under the cloak of darkness in a remote area using a couple of watch dogs. The centering pin removal Bulle will bust you should you get caught

 

What motorcycle?

[Plymouthy Adams]

Cpt.Fred, on 12 Dec 2014 - 07:17 AM, said:Cpt.Fred, on 12 Dec 2014 - 07:17 AM, said:

centric to the hub... well, i think so. but i cannot really try untill i put them on, and for that i need to get rid of the pins.

they're showbox rims, i think, or maybe a bit later. the wheel bolts should work straight away. but i'll go and measure everything

to be sure. thanks for the heads up!

they does not need be a try..only a measurement...if at possible substitute rims that are hub centric...that way the wheels is centered to the hub via the taper and secured with the bolts and not all the weight of the car is felt only on the bolts if not hub-centric

Edited December 12, 2014 by Plymouthy Adams

[Cpt.Fred]

ah, ok. they are hub centric.

the center is a lot thicker than on the oem rim, but it's the same diamter and will sit on the protrusion of the hub

to take the cars weight away from the bolts. bolts should be long enough. so i think i'll just cut 'em off now.

 

don, i'll close the gates and windows for my secret operation and will remain silent for evermore.

here's the little OT time thief i built over the last years.

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

good that are hub-centric..but do be careful of that bolt length...I have fit these later wheels and found that an extra 1/4 difference is about the max one would want to run...for the record..once mounted..check these for proper torque  a few times after mounting to ensure they are not shifting...from there..you ought to be good to go..

[Cpt.Fred]

well, i put them on, and i really don't know if i like it.

I think i don't like the look of the the wider rims and how they sit under the fenders.

fortunately it doesn't make a big difference putting the wheels on without the pins.

so i'm going to cut the passenger side, too.

 

i'll let ist sit for a couple of days and look at it.

 

[Seaside Pete]

The hub centres are more critical on front wheel drive cars as the offset (ET) is usually quite  positive and you may get vibrations (which is often the case when not hub centric)  where as rear wheel drive cars the offset is usually a lot less and in some cases especially on wider wheels is often a negative offset, and it is rare to get the same vibration problems. I am not saying that it doesn't matter, I am just saying that it is not as critical. As far as the bolt length is concerned, the rule of thumb is that the wheel bolt (or nut for that matter) should screw in 1 1/2 times the diameter of the thread MINIMUM (I would prefer a bit more).

 

I was the MD of a wheel importer and wholesale distributor, and in the wheel business for 37 years.

 

Pete

[Niel Hoback]

   Hey!  Don't cut off the pins!  Drill a hole in the wheel, if you don't like the wheels, you still have the pin.

[Andydodge]

Fred, I cut the pins off the Plymouth when I put the chromies on, but I also had to grind the tops of the other 4 rivets down by about half to clear the space between the holes in the rims......these rims were Wheel Vintique Chrome Smoothies...........btw have a great Xmas..........andyd  

[38plymouth]

The pins are cut now onto the bike details please.

[1940plymouth]

Like Niel said, don't remove the pins, I drilled holes in the wheels I have on my '40

[T120]

Hey Fred, Also like your "time  thief".

[rolnthunder]

You sir have some nice rides! That bike is super cool!

[BobT-47P15]

I have either one or two drums that are missing the studs.  To me, the stud makes it easier to mount the wheel and get the holes aligned. 

I've never tried drilling a guide hole in a rim without one.......but it sounds pretty logical, 

[Cpt.Fred]

hey everyone, thanks for the kind words!

 

niel hoback and bob: sorry, too late... i'm kind of hasty sometimes, i admit.

but if i want to sell the wheels back to one of those picky ford guys they'll burn me for drilling a hole in there.

 

andy: your coupe is still a dream! nice xmas time for you as well! i cut the pins down to match the other rivet heads,

in order to leave the rivet itself intact. worked well and the bolts are long enough.

1 1/2 threads on these bolts would be something i'd never ride, i think. there is enough meat and it feels save.

 

sadly i still don't really like the looks of it...

 

i can post some details of the bike later, if there is interest and the admin doesn't mind.

nothing fany really, 45cui flathead with the paint scraped off and a triumph fender in the rear,

but it runs great and i love it.

old rusty is a little jealous, i think. i'll put in new king pin bushings and do some major service to make it even.

i tried with the new shoes, but as you see it's only cold comfort...

Edited December 13, 2014 by Cpt.Fred

[Plymouthy Adams]

quote in part....    1 1/2 threads on these bolts would be something i'd never ride, i think. there is enough meat and it feels save.

 

Fred..the reference to the 1 1/2 threads is the amount of bolt that protrudes from the nut (in your case threaded hub) on the opposite side of where it was inserted..this is considered proper penetration for to obtain the correct clamping force for the combination when torqued

[pflaming]

a very cool bike, I like that flat black look. Now put on an old army uniform and hit the roads. I don't ride bikes, I can but I don't trust myself, but I can understand the enjoyment.

[deathbound]

It is not 1-1/2 threads....what Seaside Pete was referring to was 1-1/2 times bolt diameter, ie: 1/2" bolt would require minimum of 3/4" penetration of the drum. I'm sure there is a maximum, as to not interfere with any internal brake components. Re-read his post.

EDIT:BTW Fred, dig the flatty, speed holes and all. With a car as nice as yours, I would expect nothing less!

Edited December 13, 2014 by deathbound

[Cpt.Fred]

ok, now i see. sometimes i just don't get the facts.

i should have caught on to it the first time because this is not the board for unsave stuff... mea maxima you know what

sorry, guys.

 

thank you, deathbound. just saw your engine in the other thread... ooooooooooooooooooooooooooh! you nailed it!

 

i just remembered a fellow i know here with a 58 ford station who's licking his fingers to get 15" rims, i think i might be out of this soon.

anyway, good thing it got me to look into this place here again!

i was just getting a little bored about the car, or should i say, felt an urge to change something on it. i'm still kind of sad it isn't a coupe.

it lacks power, has poor brakes and now that i lowered it so much it can only transport itself and it's not even that low compared to other cars.

neighbour's grass, you see...

then again, we belong together and i can't even think about selling it and let someone ride around with my peacock's feathers! no sir.

 

the 45 is not flat black, it's the old paint on the frame with the same stuff on it i use for the car, it's called "owatrol".

it's an oil based on flax seed. gives everything that worn out look i like so much. that way i can hide the newer parts to protect the old ones.

 

here's some details for those who care.

 

 

 

but enough of that. i go back to the plymouth now, fix some things.

i noticed the light got awfully tired over the year. i should clean some connectors, i think...

 

have a great day, everyone!

 

fred

Edited December 13, 2014 by Cpt.Fred

[Plymouthy Adams]

read my post also..I made reference to thread extending beyond..we are on different pages it seems...

[Seaside Pete]

Just to clarify. Yes I meant 1 1/2 (1.5) times the width/DIA of the thread.

 

Pete

[Cpt.Fred]

i know, as i said, sorry for that. please keep in mind my english sometimes tricks me.