Unexpected shock

[pflaming]

I have my truck hot wired so I can start it tomorrow. I motored it bit with the starter to see if I could get luckly and it would fire up. Well it didn't. So I figured I would check the plugs before I continued. When I pulled one wire, I got BIT! I had left the toggle switch on, what caused that wire to bite me? One way to know that there is fire to the plugs!

[pflaming]

I have my truck hot wired so I can start it tomorrow. I motored it bit with the starter to see if I could get luckly and it would fire up. Well it didn't. So I figured I would check the plugs before I continued. When I pulled one wire, I got BIT! I had left the toggle switch on, what caused that wire to bite me? One way to know that there is fire to the plugs!

[Plymouthy Adams]

field collapse in the coils secondary windings..

[Dave72dt]

If you haven't already, plan on replacing the points and condenser.  You won't get any spark at the plugs if the secondary coil windings won't collapse.  You made a ground of less resistance than the plug. That's why it bit you and didn't fire the plug.

[pflaming]

I have new points and condenser. Been reading on the net. Maybe my wires were damaged in the fire. So a new set may be in order. Does this mean I destroyed the coil or just that it had to discharge its voltage in an alternative manner. That bite was SHARP.

Edited August 8, 2014 by pflaming

[Dave72dt]

discharged in an alternative manner.  pull the coil wire from cap and place it next to ground.  turn engine over and look for consistent arcing.

Edited August 8, 2014 by Dave72dt

[pflaming]

So I am to pull the wire out of the coil to see if the distributor is 'firing' on all six. Now I'll add another element, I have a 12 volt battery. For got about that til now. I am hot wired thusly: #14 wires, wire from top of starter input cable from the battery, that wire goes to a toggle switch. from toggle switch to the negative post of the coil, wire then from positive side of the coil to the distributor. Nothing else, did it this way before, but with a six volt battery.

Edited August 8, 2014 by pflaming

[MBF]

Paul, if you pull the wire out of the center of the distributor cap, and hold it near a ground, if you manually open and close the points with the key on, you should see a strong blue spark at the end of the wire to ground.  If not, try cleaning and readjusting the points.  Mike

[David Strieb]

would'nt a 12 volt battery need a negitive ground? If so, then the negitive sde of the coil needs to ground to the dizzy. Just a thought.

[Plymouthy Adams]

the coil could care less if you ground it negative or positive...the argued current flow is insignificant and the pit on the points change contact face with polarity change...

[David Strieb]

if the battery is grounded neg, then the neg side of the coil has to be grounded to the dizzy or the current is flowing backwards

[pflaming]

Sio then, I pull the wire out of the top of the distributor cap. Does the current then go back through the coil to make that blue spark that exits from the wire from the coil?

[David Strieb]

I'm sorry I tried to help, it won't happen again

[nonstop]

How long did you leave the toggle on for? Do you have a ballast resistor to drop the voltage to the points to keep them from burning out?

[MBF]

Paul, when you remove the center wire (the primary coming from the coil) from the distributor and manually open and close your points with a screwdriver blade you are in effect simulating the effect of the distributor shaft rotating and opening/closing the points as it turns.  This test only verifies that you: 1)have battery power to the coil, 2) that your coil is good, 3) and that your points are in effect making and breaking the ground circuit that collapses the field in the coil to create a spark.   If your distributor is in time, this test would confirm that you have sufficient spark to make the engine run.  If you don't have a spark at the end of the coil wire, you need to start backtracking to make sure of the 3 items listed above.  All the distributor does is as it's name applies, distributes the energy or spark from the coil primary wire to the proper spark plug at the proper time.   I don't know that you'd need a ballast resistor to conduct this test w a 12 volt battery, but if you're going to run the engine for any extended time you may.   Be aware if you're going to continue testing w a 12 volt through your ignition switch make sure you disconnect the power feed to your fuel gauge or it will smoke in an instant.   Also do not turn on any lights or you'll make flashbulbs out of anything that lights.  Hotwire this test battery in the same orientation as you had with the 6 volt before the fire (+ ground).  Mike

[Desotodav]

I'm getting worried again PP with all this talk of sparks in your garage... you don't still have any of those oily rags laying around do you?... remember what happened last time! 

[48Dodger]

"Good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment."

 

Will Rogers

 

 

I believe in PP, Davin......he's a good learnerer.  

 

48D

[Dave72dt]

if the battery is grounded neg, then the neg side of the coil has to be grounded to the dizzy or the current is flowing backwards

You're correct in wanting the polarity matched throughout the system.  A 12 v BAT can be hooked up pos or neg ground and in Paul's case, pos ground similar to his original 6v setup/  When he converts this truck to 12 v neg system, yes, he'll need to switch polarity on  the coil.  If he has in fact hooked it up as a neg ground bat, he does need to switch it.

[pflaming]

Update: Will apply Fowler's test in the morning. Had so many Saturday deterrents that I didn't get the engine to fire. At one point I had fire at the plugs but had set the distributor with pistons 1 & 6 down, put them at TDC, the rotor was pointed at "1" , reset the points, and lost my fire at the plugs. Then had to go visit my bro-in-law in rehab and the day was history. Once the engine fires up, I will abandon this thread and return to "The Phoenix is Rising from the ashes" or whatever that thread is named.

One it's running smoothly again, then finish the wiring, glass, interior, and finally exterior. Will get it back on the street first then work on the exterior. The areas which took a direct hit from the flames have already been treated with phosphoric acid but now need to be artfully finished. Will then wet sand the entire body and probably clear coat the results.

Feel's good to be back wrenching, but I'm finding out that many of my resources are gone. Like my bolt rack, electrical connectors, specialty tools, especially the smaller ones we accumulate over time. But will get it all back in time. I DO ENJOY THE ROOM and the high walls and ceiling. With the ceiling up at 10' and the crown at 12' the feeling is so different.

Thanks again for all the support.

[T120]

You're correct in wanting the polarity matched throughout the system.  A 12 v BAT can be hooked up pos or neg ground and in Paul's case, pos ground similar to his original 6v setup/  When he converts this truck to 12 v neg system, yes, he'll need to switch polarity on  the coil.  If he has in fact hooked it up as a neg ground bat, he does need to switch it.

As mentioned,in order to get efficient spark at the plugs the coil should be connected using proper polarity.To get Gus Wilson's explanation,see his story in Popular Science Sept 1965 issue page 166...

Edited August 10, 2014 by Ralph D25cpe