Buying my first classic, 1954 Plymouth Belvedere. Advice?

[Spy]

Hello all,
I'm seriously considering purchasing this car. The owner has accepted a very low cash offer from me, along with my promise to not purposefully ruin the car's originality.

The car in question is a 1954 Plymouth Belvedere. It is currently all original, it runs and drives strong and I was taken for a ride in it. There is very little rust on the exterior, and the interior is in good condition. Problems: It needs work on the brakes as it is slow to stop. The owner said I should have the electrical wiring cleaned up. The fuel gauge doesn't work. Finally, I'm told that the car recently started overheating when driven long distances (15+ miles), we drove the car together for over ten minutes and it was not an issue.

What is your advice on this car? Thoughts? It would be my first classic. Is it easy to find parts and/or restore? Easy to maintain? I am looking for this to be a daily use car while I restore it. Based on your feedback, I plan on buying this car tomorrow.

 

I've also asked for advice on the AACA forum, there's some more details in the thread over there, if you're interested. http://forums.aaca.org/f169/first-classic-advice-54-plymouth-belvedere-372169.html

Thanks!

 

P.S. If there's anybody in the Los Angeles area with a trained eye, who could come take a look at the car with me, it would be a huge help.

Edited May 11, 2014 by Spy

[BobT-47P15]

Hi.  Welcome.  A 54 Plymouth is a good old car.  I read the replies on the other forum......you should be able to simply

replace the dash light bulbs with 12V bulbs.  The gas gauge is another matter .... probably needs a Runtz voltage

reducer.  Is it now negative ground - it was originally positive ground.  Did they switch to 12V headlight, parking and

tail light bulbs?  

 

What transmission does it have.......standard 3 speed or automatic?    

 

Old Daddy, listed in references on this forum, makes a front disc brake conversion kit that is pretty easy to

install.  Or a good understanding of the Plymouth original braking system and adjustments would help to

set things properly.  The front brakes have two brake cylinders per wheel (upper and lower) and some adjusters

workable from back side of the drum.  

 

Two things you should invest in right off are the Repair Manual and a Parts Manual for your model.  Both reprints and

originals can be purchased on eBay.  As can many parts needed.  The prices have just increased in the past few

years.  

[Young Ed]

Brakes and wiring are some of the easier areas to address. Overheating shouldn't be too hard either. Quite possibly a good radiator flush will take care of that. I'd say buy it and jump into the forum you'll have a great car in no time.

[Spy]

Thanks for the encouraging feedback, I've been second guessing myself a lot this morning. To be clear, I intend on making this car my daily driver that I depend on, while restoring it. Also, despite being sold to me very cheap, the purchase will consume almost all of my immediate funding for any repairs (so I will keep my current car for daily use until I save up a bit). My father has made it clear that he thinks buying a classic is a dumb idea, but I feel it can't be any more dumb than getting something from the 90's that will depreciate, be more expensive to insure, and be too complicated to do my own repairs on.

 

Did they switch to 12V headlight, parking and tail light bulbs?  

 

What transmission does it have.......standard 3 speed or automatic?    

 

The owner said "those bulbs are already designed to handle 12v, so they work. The dash lights just went POP!" so I don't get the impression he actually changed the headlight or tail light bulbs, if that's possible? But they are working at the moment.

 

It does have the standard 3 speed on the steering column.

 

Thanks again!

[Young Ed]

The owner said "those bulbs are already designed to handle 12v, so they work. The dash lights just went POP!" so I don't get the impression he actually changed the headlight or tail light bulbs, if that's possible? But they are working at the moment.

 

It does have the standard 3 speed on the steering column.

 

Thanks again!

 

Oh its possible he didnt change them and your instant popping of all the 6v bulbs when 12v was applied sounds like the result I would expect. Luckily its not too hard or expensive to swap them out to the proper 12v versions.

[54Illinois]

This year of car has new and used parts available.  I find everything I have needed on Craigslist or Ebay.  I am curious what you are paying....while these are cool cars, they are not too desirable, and are often overpriced.  

 

Edited May 11, 2014 by 54Illinois

[_shel_ny]

A 6v sealed beam headlight will not handle 12v. They will be very bright for just a very short period of time. Been there, done that, do not have the T shirt. Bad enough that I did it, not going to be a walking advertisement for stupid.

[Plymouthy Adams]

they are out of the fat fender era by definition and the separating factor for me of the older rides is split windshield and removable rear fenders...BUT...I did buy a 54 Club Coupe...230 with Powerflite....it is a true highway cruiser and will lope along at 75-80 with the best of them..above 80 she does start sounding busy...these cars will grow on you..both in their looks and appointments and over all ride quality....grab it,...if the price is right..I find them very reasonable yet compared to many models....

 

little before and after...

[RobertKB]

I agree with Tim. If the price is right get it. I have a '53 Plymouth which is the same as a '54 except for trim changes including the grille. They are great cars and overlooked by most people. Most mechanical parts are very easy to pick up. Trim or other parts can be found on ebay or from some sellers listed in the "links" section of this forum. Old cars are a lot of fun and can provide you with hours of tinkering and driving pleasure but they are old.

 

Mine is a survivor as well including original paint. Paint looks better in the picture than it actually is as it has lots of gravel rash and a few scrapes and scratches. The original paint will clean up well if it is still thick enough.

 

Not sure about using it as a daily driver but that would depend a lot on the kind of driving conditions you would use it for. Are you mechanically inclined as the car will need more maintenance than a newer car. Safety is also an issue. Newer cars, although not as much fun (at least to me) are much safer if you unfortunately do have an accident. I would be more inclined to use it as an occasional daily driver.

 

Edited May 11, 2014 by RobertKB

[Plymouthy Adams]

Rob's car is very nice..I like his two tone colors also...I bought the one I did as the owner came to me knowing I had older Mopars..the car was original unmolested condition, first 230..first automatic...and two doors was the selling feature...the more I messed with the pup..the more I started liking it..they are an 'acquired' taste...

 

brakes are not any more difficult on this car as any other with non floating shoes..the brake tool is not a requirement for getting a good pedal but if you want long wear, without the tool I do not think you will get it otherwise...

 

Advance Auto carries a lot of stuff for this car..very reasonable but usually on an overnight...do not overlook your locals for routine maintenance parts..

[Spy]

I am curious what you are paying....while these are cool cars, they are not too desirable, and are often overpriced.  

 

$3,000 is the price. I am getting a lot of feedback against this car from a member of the AACA forum, on the thread I posted here earlier. The fact of the matter is, I don't have time right now to get acquainted with this car. I am mechanically "motivated" and love to tinker, but I really don't have much time around work. Also, the $3,000 will drain my bank account. I really want to get this car and feel like I will thank myself later for it, but I'm second guessing myself a lot.

 

It would have to be my only car, if not immediately then in the near future.

Edited May 12, 2014 by Spy

[BobT-47P15]

I got these figures (based on my Missouri zip code) from the NADA classic car price guide on line.

 

I don't think $3000 is particularly out of line for a complete, drivable car in pretty good shape.

 

Low retail.........$4475

 

Average retail..........$7475

 

High retail..............$12,200

 

 

 

Just curious......what is your age?

Edited May 12, 2014 by BobT-47P15

[Young Ed]

$3,000 is the price. I am getting a lot of feedback against this car from a member of the AACA forum, on the thread I posted here earlier. The fact of the matter is, I don't have time right now to get acquainted with this car. I am mechanically "motivated" and love to tinker, but I really don't have much time around work. Also, the $3,000 will drain my bank account. I really want to get this car and feel like I will thank myself later for it, but I'm second guessing myself a lot.

 

It would have to be my only car, if not immediately then in the near future.

Be aware that same poster has been basically chased off here because of living up to his last name-tool. As long as you can keep your current driver car until this one is ready you have no reason not to go for it.

[54Illinois]

 Also, the $3,000 will drain my bank account. I really want to get this car and feel like I will thank myself later for it, but I'm second guessing myself a lot.

 

 

Then go with your gut feeling and keep looking.  Draining your bank account these cars can do....but over time, not all at once!  

[Plymouthy Adams]

no guts..no glory....

 

but hey..you know your means..do live within them and thus be happy

[Spy]

Then go with your gut feeling and keep looking.  Draining your bank account these cars can do....but over time, not all at once!  

 

Well, my gut feeling tells me that if I'm going for a classic, this is the car to jump on. However, Rusty and my Dad both think I should go for another boring 90's car. I know a 90's cash car might keep more money in my bank and keep me on the road immediately, but I feel that in the long run a classic will be cheaper to maintain myself, and will be worth more if I sell.

 

So it's between the Plymouth, or the same old 90's clunkers that I learned to drive on, and loathe. It's an easy decision, except for the risk of stretching my finances too thin.

[Plymouthy Adams]

how old are you......

[54Illinois]

I sent you another PM.

 

Listen to your DAD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

And if anyone asks....I am 45 and my dad 75 and I still take his advice (unlike when I was younger)!

Edited May 12, 2014 by 54Illinois

[nonstop]

Honestly, my 1954 Royal is my daily driver. I couldn't be happier with it! I upgraded the front discs with a Scarebird kit, did an ECI dual reservoir master cylinder set up, and adapted self adjusting Bendix brakes to the rear. Beyond that, it has been maintanence on it only. The car runs like a champ and is still 6 volt positive ground. People always want to know more about it and are looking it over. Mine is a 4 door too and very comfy. As long as you are willing to maintain it, you will have a blast with it!

[Spy]

how old are you......

 

I am 24 years old, and have owned about 20 cars. The oldest (and best) was a 1984 Volvo 244.

[Tim Keith]

The fact of the matter is, I don't have time right now to get acquainted with this car. I am mechanically "motivated" and love to tinker, but I really don't have much time around work

 

The big expense on old cars is usually repairing rust, upholstery and chrome.  If the Plymouth runs well there is no big mystery in the '54.  When new they were common, but now you won't see another one on the road.    My father told me that he traded a '53 Plymouth on a then new '55 Chevy, which initially had several problems which didn't get sorted out.  He said that the Plymouth was comfortable and reliable, but only had 40,000 miles when he traded it.  The Chevy needed several repairs under warranty and the Chevy dealer mechanics didn't understand the new V8. 

[jeffsunzeri]

Don't do it.

Your Dad is right.

All the conditions you state point to not doing yourself or the car any favors.

Daily driver, out of cash, bad electrics, bad brakes, overheating, not a proficient mechanic.

[Dodgeb4ya]

You say the car needs brake work....you cannot do the work..probably at a minimum $300.00 to $500.00 for a shop to do minor brake repairs.

Thats just the beginning to get it to a modern daily driver which IMO it will not be very good at. 

[Darbone85737]

I also wouldn't recommend it or any other car that old as a daily driver, especially if you can't do the work on them yourself and can't afford to have others do it.  These are not "gas and go" propositions.  Old cars required frequent maintenance and repair. There is a reason why cars of this era rarely made it passed 60,000 miles whereas newer cars typically go well over 100,000 miles with few issues other than maintenance.

 

Get yourself a mid 90's Honda for transportation and while you're working save money and learn more about buying and owning an older car.   

[Plymouthy Adams]

I was under the assumption that the time money and expertise was already in play..only the car needed to be in play..got quit this thinking out loud...