Barsteel Posted April 18, 2014 Report Share Posted April 18, 2014 Hello - Finally got my '52 Cranbrook running and registered. I bought it about 3 months ago and have since done the following: 1) convert to 12V neg ground w/rebuilt generator and new voltage regulator 2) Complete rewire front to back 3) Replaced the 3 on the tree with a floor shift T5 5 speed 4) converted to 4 wheel discs with a dual well master cylinder, all new brake lines 5) New sending unit in the gas tank, tank flushed, red coated and painted 6) new exhaust system 7) Dropped the headliner and removed a 10lb mouse nest 8) New tires 9) Converted to electronic ignition. The car runs like a champ and starts with a flick of the key. I've already lubed the chassis. Next on the list is an oil change, and here's the embarrassing question - HOW do I remove this oil filter? I've included a picture of the filter. I appears to be a sealed unit, and I'd like to know what I'm dealing with before I start pulling things apart. My understanding is that this car uses a replaceable filter element. Napa had one, I think that the number is 1040. Can anyone shed some light on this type of oil filter? Thanks.... Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Flanagan Posted April 18, 2014 Report Share Posted April 18, 2014 Normally, the top unscrews and inside you'll find the filter (along with a half quart or so of dirty oil). You toss the old filter and suction out the remaining oil with a turkey baster. At least that's what I do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted April 18, 2014 Report Share Posted April 18, 2014 The hard part of that one is finding a replacement. They can be found on ePay and, I think, Bernbaum lists them in their catalog. The problem is that the last manufacturer of them was WIX and they stopped making them over 10 years ago. For various old replacement numbers that you can use for searches at swap meets or ePay see: http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group10#861028 Once you have the new filter assembly, changing is easy: Remove the hard lines at the top and bottom, loosen the clamp. Remove the filter and throw it away. Installing the new one is simple too: put new filter in clamp, attach the hard lines, then tighten the clamp. Edit: Bernbaum lists it as part L-280 on this page of their site: http://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-engine.aspx Note: These are bypass filters and as such only need to be replaced if they become clogged which can be many thousands of miles. The early ones called for 8,000 mile replacement on the label. But the manual for my car simply calls for the filter to be checked for flow. They have a procedure of removing the bottom fitting while the engine is at hot idle. I do it by putting my hand on the filter after the engine is fully warmed up (typically after coming home from a long tour so the engine is really well warmed up). If oil has been flowing through it then it will be really hot. If it is simply warm from being in the engine compartment then it is probably clogged. Final take away: You don't need to replace the filter at every oil change like a full flow filter. So paying $45 to a place like Bernbaum once every 10 or so years is not too bad a deal. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barabbas Posted April 18, 2014 Report Share Posted April 18, 2014 Chris, I too have a 52 Cranbrook and puzzled over this same issue when I did my first oil change. The answer is: there are two types of oil filters used on these old flat heads. One type is a canister that uses the Napa 1040 cartridge; the second type is a totally self contained throw away unit--that's what you (and I) have. You can find the self contained units on ebay and Andy B for about $65 ea or you can also find the old canisters on ebay or maybe the Old Plymouth cafe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumpy Posted April 18, 2014 Report Share Posted April 18, 2014 Wasn't there a way to make it a five-on-the-tree? I've changed my filter once...I don't think they pick up near as much sludge and grit as they used to. Also, in the 1940's early 50's there was much more dirt road..."dusty conditions", so they probably got diryt/clogged up a bit sooner. k. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted April 18, 2014 Report Share Posted April 18, 2014 Chris, as the guys have said, that's a throw away filter canister, there are some similar looking ones that do indeed have an unboltable top lid and you remove the lid, old filter and clean it out then replace with a new filter element........if you are going to look for that type, why not go the whole hog and get a Beehive style filter, yep they are dearer, much dearer but as your car is hot-rodded anyway ..........lol.............this is what I had on my 1941 Plymouth........have sold the car but remember it fondly.......lol.........regards, andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertKB Posted April 18, 2014 Report Share Posted April 18, 2014 If you are interested in a canister that takes a filter, email or PM me. I have a cansiter oil filter and it even has a brand new NAPA 1010 filter in it. I can send pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobT-47P15 Posted April 18, 2014 Report Share Posted April 18, 2014 i would take Robert up on his offer......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
54Illinois Posted April 18, 2014 Report Share Posted April 18, 2014 Guy on ebay has 7 NOS...$30 each. Bet you can get a couple for a better deal. 301106511880 is the auction number. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navyboy Posted April 19, 2014 Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 you need to toss that ****! Take the advice of others and get the type that has the removable top like I have on my 52 cranbrook, now Napa and Fram do have a filter but have cross referenced it with wix filters and Wix does have a much better filter, fits better than the others and well damn its Wix, think its 51006 but I can double check id you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deathbound Posted April 19, 2014 Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 (edited) I had a Wix 51035 sealed oil filter (2nd pic)......switched it out to the type that takes a replaceable oil filter (1st pic). Found it on ebay for about $55 shipped. I'm using a Napa 1080 by pass type filter.....seen here:http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Oil-Filter-Gold-/_/R-FIL1080_0278332820 Edited April 19, 2014 by deathbound Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted April 19, 2014 Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 Pictured is the filter canister that takes the replaceable element. You might check the parts for sale section on this webpage for anyone parting out a car. Did you buy a "kit" to do your T-5 install? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted April 19, 2014 Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 Another option you have, is to install a remote spin on type system. These are on Ebay for about $20. Spin on filters are available at any auto parts store. The advantages are, less expense, can be located away from electrical components, ease of changing, and less of a mess.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barsteel Posted April 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 Thanks to all for their replies. I found an insert type filter housing from French Lake Auto parts, and it'll be on its way on Monday. Don - Yes, I used an adaptor kit for my T5 install. Everything bolted right up. The car is a joy to drive, and the engine isn't screaming on the highway. Andy - I don't know if I'd call my car "hot-rodded" . I made the changes I made so that I could drive it on the highway without worrying about stopping distance, going to slow, etc...although I'm really tempted to pull the head and have it shave .050 or so just to bump up the compression. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 milling the head and cranking in a bit of timing advance is the thing that perks these engines up for the least amount of money invested. I took .040 off the head and .010 off the block of my 56 engine and it work right up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 Chris......milling the head????.......5 thou? your a restorer.......50 thou.......you be a hotrodder!!.......me?......see the attached pics......been a hotrodder for 45yrs.....am a restorers worst nightmare.....lol......andyd 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 My biggest issue with milling the head and/or block for higher compression is that it is material removed. And that might affect my ability to mill the head and/or block in the future if warpage occurs. But then I have the original "numbers matching" 81 year old engine in the car and I'd like to keep that going for the next 20 or so years without worrying that I may have affected future repairability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
54Illinois Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 I have been using the NAPA 1071 filter for the Plymouths....and Dodge. They look exactly the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deathbound Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 I have been using the NAPA 1071 filter for the Plymouths....and Dodge. They look exactly the same. The 1071 & 1080 are identical in all specs, except the 1071 says "full flow" & the 1080 says "by-pass". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barsteel Posted April 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 Andydodge - LOL, ok, yes, maybe I am a hotrodder, but I like keeping things "traditional", as much as I can, so any hotrodding on the Crankbrook would be old school...dual carbs, reground cam, milled head, maybe crossdrill the crank for better oiling. I'm not a big fan of automatic transmissions, fuel injection, bolt on or clipped front ends, etc. I still want to know (and feel) that I'm driving an old car. If I wanted modern day performance, I'd buy a brandy-new Challenger. Chris 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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