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Started the teardown, and now the build up.


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  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

Received my rubber body mount kit today.  $218 worth of rubber.  Last week I  finished my newly made sleeve assemblies.  Now to buy some bolts, nuts, washers and a few studs.  

 

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Posted

Received my rubber body mount kit today.  $218 worth of rubber.  Last week I  finished my newly made sleeve assemblies.  Now to buy some bolts, nuts, washers and a few studs.  

Sometimes it's hard to figure out if you should be outraged over the high prices,or grateful that you can even buy the overpriced stuff .

 

In the greater sense of financing a old car rebuilt,$218 is drop of rain in a monsoon. The problem is the drops end up adding up to be a flood.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

The complete car is finally in primer/sealer and sanded to 600 grit.  I have to drive 150 miles one way to pick up the tint and tintable bedliner which I will do on Thursday.  Hopefully by this weekend the bottom and rear fenderwells and maybe the inside of the trunk will be coated and in final color.  I went with 1991 GM dark polo green #9529 in transtar or PPG 4235.  It's a metallic and I didn't really want to go there but it looks really good on the paint chip.

Posted

I was finally able to find enough time to do some spraying today.  Got the bottom of the coupe, rear inner fender wells and one inside rear fender sprayed with tinted bedliner.  Seems to have come out pretty well.  Will do the other rear and both inner front fenders tomorrow if the creek don't rise and the boss doesn't have anything that in critical for me to do.

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  • Like 4
Posted

Sure looks good.

Posted

worked a bit on my chassis today.  I unwrapped it and noticed that the red paint that I painted the brake lines with was peeling.  Figured that wasn't going to last so decided to put wire shrink wrap on them.  Not as bright of a red but will last a long time I bet.

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Posted (edited)

put some clearcoat on the doorjams, trunk and firewall.  The last two were with flash.  Kind of washes the color out a bit.

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Edited by casper50
Posted

I love it, man! Awesome work. Following this thread has been very motivating for me. And I dig the color. It's darn near the same as my 1934 Harley. Keep up the good work!

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  • Like 1
Posted

I love it, man! Awesome work. Following this thread has been very motivating for me. And I dig the color. It's darn near the same as my 1934 Harley. Keep up the good work!

 

Used to know a guy in Milwaukee that had a big collection of '30's Harleys, restored them to gold circle level, and qualified as a points judge for them.  John _______ , last name escapes me. Maybe you know him.

Posted

You're at the point where all that hard work pays off.  Looks good.

Posted

Like the work you have been doing on the car and it looks great!  However I do have a caution for you concerning the paint process.  From your postings it looks like you sprayed the basecoat on the jambs, firewall and inside the trunk about May 4th and didn't spray clear until May 11th or 12th.  That's a long time for the base to sit open.  I don't know what paint system you are using  but most I have used have a maximum open window of about 24 hours between application of base and clear.  After that the usual recommendation is to scuff the base coat, reapply and then spray the clear within the 24 hour open window. 

The danger of letting the base sit to long is you won't get a good chemical bond and the clear will delaminate over time.  Since we are talking about parts of the car that are not typically exposed to UV you may be OK.

I recommend you review the product data sheets for whatever paint system you are using and plan your painting schedule to stay within the application guidelines.  My usual process is to spray the base in the afternoon, allowing an hour or so between coats and coming back the next morning to spray the clear, also allowing at least an hour between coats.  This lets me stay within the open windows for recoat while allowing time for the paint to outgas so I don't trap solvents.

I've been doing this for 45+ years and while paint systems have changed a lot the one rule that hasn't changed is to read, understand and follow the product data sheet. 

If I have misunderstood your process or the paint system you are using does allow these long recoat windows then I hope you don't take offense and this post can serve as a lesson to others.  To much work goes into one of these restorations to have it go bad at the painting stage.  I want to see your final job reflect all the great work that went into it.

  • Like 6
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

finally got the body in color and clear coat.  doesn't show up well inside but I brought the cowl vent out into the sunlight.  The photo still isn't as impressive as it is in real life.  Very impressed with how it came out.  No orangepeel at all.

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  • Like 1
Posted

finally got the body in color and clear coat.  doesn't show up well inside but I brought the cowl vent out into the sunlight.  The photo still isn't as impressive as it is in real life.  Very impressed with how it came out.  No orangepeel at all.

Looks GREAT! Keep it up!

Posted

Impressive is an understatement! If I recall correctly, that body was not all that good and had a fair amount of BAD rust areas which you expertly replaced. That will be a head turner. Will you a install moose warning device or a cow plow on the car? LOL

Posted (edited)

the wife has had 3 moose run out in front of her in a week.   summertime isn't as bad as winter due to the long hours of sunlight.  We can see them better.  body is still on the cart sitting in the paint booth.   I'll try and take a photo or 3 today and post up.

Edited by casper50
Posted

Here's 3 quick ones.   Can't see the color very well unless I turn a very bright work light on it.  Looks black without the bright light.

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  • Like 3

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