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MacGyver last won the day on February 24 2013

MacGyver had the most liked content!

About MacGyver

  • Rank
    Member, been hanging around a while...
  • Birthday 07/07/1978

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Milwaukee, WI
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Dodge D24c Club Coupe<br />
    1931 Ford Model A Slant Window Town Car<br />
    bikes:<br />
    1934 Harley Davidson RL<br />
    2005 Ural Gear Up, 2wd<br />
    1982 Honda Urban Express<br />
    1979 Yamaha XS650<br />
    1978 Honda CR250R<br />
    1977 BMW R100S<br />
    1973 Yamaha RD350


  • Location
    Milwaukee, WI
  • Interests
    antique cars and bikes

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    Chemist (in the lubrication industry) and Registered Nurse

Recent Profile Visitors

306 profile views
  1. Nice work! Thanks for the update. Keep 'em coming as you move forward.
  2. For my last exhaust project I picked up all the pipe on my own, made careful measurements of bend locations and degrees and ends to be expanded (double and triple checked), and marked up the pipe. I took the works to a local shop and tossed them a few bucks to make the bends as I watched/instructed. When I got home I slapped it all together and welded it up. I don't know if that is an option for you but just thought I'd throw it out there. Heck, you could even use swimming pool noodles for about $1 each to mock it all up and make sure your routing is sound before moving on to the pipe.
  3. I love it, man! Awesome work. Following this thread has been very motivating for me. And I dig the color. It's darn near the same as my 1934 Harley. Keep up the good work!
  4. I don't want to send you on a goose chase but on my '48 D-24 the number is stamped on the inner driver's side frame rail just in front of the rear axle. That number can then be deciphered for build location, etc
  5. As with most things, success with bed liner is all about the prep-work. Follow the instructions and you'll be a happy camper; cut corners and you may find the liner peeling off before you know it.
  6. Soak, heat, beat, repeat! Here's the 'study' that always gets referenced in these discussions. "Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested these products for "break out "torque" on rusted nuts and bolts. A subjective test was made of popular penetrating oils, with the unit of merit being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" bolt. Average torque load to loosen nut: No Oil used ........................516 foot pounds WD-40 ..................... ........238 foot pounds PB Blaster .........................214 foot pounds Liquid Wrench ......................127 foot pounds Kano Kroil .........................106 foot pounds ATF/Acetone mix...................... 53 foot pounds The ATF/Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good as Kroil for 20% of the price. ATF/Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50/50 mix. ATF = Any type of Automatic Transmission Fluid"
  7. Hey EPiX, I don't want to derail your thread here but, is this you from the Soviet Steeds forum? http://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=34860 I really enjoyed that report! Looks like we're cut from the same cloth. Keep the posts coming here; I'm looking forward to following your progress.
  8. I'm a fan of the AdBlock Plus browser extension. It does a good job and makes it nice to surf without all the advertisements. It's available free for many different browsers. http://www.cnet.com/how-to/block-ads-with-adblock-plus/
  9. I agree. Have it. Love it. Highly recommend it... And zero problems on all fronts, from ordering, shipping, setup, or usage over the last few years.
  10. I honed and rebuilt some of mine but the ones that were too pitted needed replacement. I ordered through www.rockauto.com though I cannot recall which brand I purchased. They had the best price I could find and the part was as expected and has served perfectly for the last 2 years (so far so good). They recently emailed me a 5% discount code if you decide to purchase through them. Enter at checkout: 2311114421253610
  11. I think there were images of the type you're referring to in this thread: http://p15-d24.com/topic/32847-towing-hitch/ I can't verify that as I cannot often view images from my office computer; many of the hosting sites like photobucket are blocked. I think they were in the posts by "JIP JOBXX" Perhaps you can try contacting him for more pics
  12. Evapo-rust uses a chelating agent, ethylenediamine i believe, to bond with the iron, essentially 'stealing' it from the iron-oxide. As you know, this product doesn't do a perfect job, but it is likely that what is left is not rust. If left in contact with a given steel surface for a long time there can be some grey-ish look to the metal rather than the bright shine you might expect from a newly machined part.
  13. Very cool, SSD. Congrats and welcome to the forum. (I see you're from New Berlin..., that wouldn't happen to be New Berlin, Wisconsin, would it?)
  14. Now you're just showing off! Congratulations!
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