MacGyver

With all due respect, you are one clever M'er F'er!

Welcome aboard! Where are you located?

Looking good though, brother. That's a great pic of your daughter in the trunk; sweet sheet metal in there as well. Take your time and have fun with it and remember to get a few wrenches into her hands along the way!

@40desoto Looks like we're coming up on that 50th birthday! How's it going; Did you make some good progress?

Nice work! Thanks for the update. Keep 'em coming as you move forward.

For my last exhaust project I picked up all the pipe on my own, made careful measurements of bend locations and degrees and ends to be expanded (double and triple checked), and marked up the pipe. I took the works to a local shop and tossed them a few bucks to make the bends as I watched/instructed. When I got home I slapped it all together and welded it up. I don't know if that is an option for you but just thought I'd throw it out there. Heck, you could even use swimming pool noodles for about $1 each to mock it all up and make sure your routing is sound before moving on to the pipe.

Looks GREAT! Keep it up!

I love it, man! Awesome work. Following this thread has been very motivating for me. And I dig the color. It's darn near the same as my 1934 Harley. Keep up the good work!

I don't want to send you on a goose chase but on my '48 D-24 the number is stamped on the inner driver's side frame rail just in front of the rear axle. That number can then be deciphered for build location, etc

As with most things, success with bed liner is all about the prep-work. Follow the instructions and you'll be a happy camper; cut corners and you may find the liner peeling off before you know it.

Soak, heat, beat, repeat! Here's the 'study' that always gets referenced in these discussions. "Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested these products for "break out "torque" on rusted nuts and bolts. A subjective test was made of popular penetrating oils, with the unit of merit being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" bolt. Average torque load to loosen nut: No Oil used ........................516 foot pounds WD-40 ..................... ........238 foot pounds PB Blaster .........................214 foot pounds Liquid Wrench ......................127 foot pounds Kano Kroil .........................106 foot pounds ATF/Acetone mix...................... 53 foot pounds The ATF/Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good as Kroil for 20% of the price. ATF/Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50/50 mix. ATF = Any type of Automatic Transmission Fluid"

Hey EPiX, I don't want to derail your thread here but, is this you from the Soviet Steeds forum? http://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=34860 I really enjoyed that report! Looks like we're cut from the same cloth. Keep the posts coming here; I'm looking forward to following your progress.

I'm a fan of the AdBlock Plus browser extension. It does a good job and makes it nice to surf without all the advertisements. It's available free for many different browsers. http://www.cnet.com/how-to/block-ads-with-adblock-plus/

I agree. Have it. Love it. Highly recommend it... And zero problems on all fronts, from ordering, shipping, setup, or usage over the last few years.

I honed and rebuilt some of mine but the ones that were too pitted needed replacement. I ordered through www.rockauto.com though I cannot recall which brand I purchased. They had the best price I could find and the part was as expected and has served perfectly for the last 2 years (so far so good). They recently emailed me a 5% discount code if you decide to purchase through them. Enter at checkout: 2311114421253610

I think there were images of the type you're referring to in this thread: http://p15-d24.com/topic/32847-towing-hitch/ I can't verify that as I cannot often view images from my office computer; many of the hosting sites like photobucket are blocked. I think they were in the posts by "JIP JOBXX" Perhaps you can try contacting him for more pics

Evapo-rust uses a chelating agent, ethylenediamine i believe, to bond with the iron, essentially 'stealing' it from the iron-oxide. As you know, this product doesn't do a perfect job, but it is likely that what is left is not rust. If left in contact with a given steel surface for a long time there can be some grey-ish look to the metal rather than the bright shine you might expect from a newly machined part.

Very cool, SSD. Congrats and welcome to the forum. (I see you're from New Berlin..., that wouldn't happen to be New Berlin, Wisconsin, would it?)

Now you're just showing off! Congratulations!

We had a bridge failure in Milwaukee back in 2000. Not by any means as catastrophic as what went on with the I-35 bridge, but a failure just the same; Could be useful for the student's research. Hoan Bridge, MKE http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoan_Bridge

Thanks for giving this some thought. Though I do love it here and have for many years, I think there is always room for organizational improvement. For what it's worth, this is another forum I frequent and I find the format to be quite 'comfortable,' well thought out, and easy to navigate; and I always get a little chuckle out of the category descriptions: http://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums/

I'd have to agree with the guys about beefing up the structure for support and stability. And as Tim said, do this Before you start slicing and dicing. Perhaps you could have a Photoshop guru mock up some photos of your car sans roof from different angles, different windshield heights, etc. Live with the photos for a while to be sure this is what you want before you put that sawzall to work... If you do this, be sure to post the photos for us.

Cool pics. You could strip the "Dodge" plate off the front and salvage that tail light lens, looks like that's about it. I like the 5th pic, nice to see a CJ-7 in it's natural environment! Brings back some good memories.

My first was a 1984 AMC Eagle wagon. Believe it or not, I miss that car and would actually love one for a daily driver today. (the only ad the link had was for a 1980 but not much changed )

I enjoy some good banter but this is getting silly. Get out there and start cutting, welding, and wrenching! I think some of these guys will keep busting your balls just to keep you at the keyboard and away from the car in hopes you won't succeed. I just want to see another 'real' car on the road amongst all the plastic and rice that's rolling around out there.