Head bolt removal

[jwhite3242]

First let me thank everyone with their previous help. I'm new to working on my 47 plymouth. So sorry for all the questions. I have started to remove the head bolts to change the head gasket. So far most have come out with out breaking. Till tonight. I broke my first one on the exhaust manifold side and it feels like the remainder on that side feel like they are going to break as well. I've tried penetrant but I don't think it will make it past the heads of the bolts down to the threads. Does anybody have any tips? I hate to spend hours drilling and ez outing. Any and all help much appreciated.

Jeff

[Don Coatney]

One trick is to remove them with an impact wrench as the hammer action tends to break the rust free.

[wayfarer]

An impact is good, but try tightening them a bit first, then reversing.

[Dave72dt]

I've used an air hammer driving straight down on the heads or a heavy punch and a few  good hammer licks, again the vibration breaks the rust loose

Edited October 22, 2013 by Dave72dt

[RobertKB]

One trick is to remove them with an impact wrench as the hammer action tends to break the rust free.

 

 

Ditto.

[48mirage]

Heat the bolt or stud up with a propane torch or other soft flame and apply wax.  The wax will run into the crevacis as long as the bolt holds heat.  This will be a way to lubricate the threads.

[hendo0601]

X3 on the impact wrench. I learned this lesson long ago at work after snapping countless exhaust manifold bolts with a regular ratchet. Hose them down with PB Blaster and let them soak for an hour and use an impact gun while feathering the trigger and most will come right off. Sears sells a really nice 3/8 battery impact for around 100 that I use all the time. A snap-on (or other brand) impact wobbly will let you get into tight spaces to get those nuts and bolts off.

[Tom Skinner]

Wax trick works!

Another trick - Fastenall sells Loctite Freeze Release @ $20/Can

[Dan Hiebert]

Ditto on the impact wrench - I use a Makita 1/2" electric impact wrench after dousing the offending bold or nut with PB Blaster and letting it soak for at least an hour. Haven't had one snap off yet.

Never apologize for asking questions on this forum, a lot of us are "done" with the hard work (we're never completely done with old cars, that's the beauty of them - OK, maybe that's a bit twisted, but you get the point), and are itching to test acquired knowledge and experience on other folks' projects. Sorta like restoring by proxy. 

 

I'm interested in trying the wax trick.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Today I had no luck with lotsa hours, PB/heat ect and a impact gun attempting to remove a couple bolts from a CW Airflow manifold set. Oh well I'm good at drilling out broken bolts. Straight eight manifold bolts are a real challenge.

Bob

[jwhite3242]

Well 18 total bolts in the head of my old straight 6. 3 left to remove have broken only 2. And not a one has come out easy.

Jeff

[Tones52]

I hope it's okay to jump in on this because it's somewhat related.

 

Because of lower compression readings I wanted to tighten my head bolts according to the manual's sequence when the engine is nicely warmed up.

 

Based on the previous postings, anything I should do (i.e. tapping the head bolts with a hammer) before proceeding? 

 

I recently replaced the water distribution tube and flushed the engine so there was evidence of rusting in the cooling system. I was told by the previous owner that the engine has about 60k miles on a rebuild. Thanks

 

Tony

[Don Coatney]

Is your head gasket leakijg? If your head gasket is not leaking after 60,000 miles I dont think I you will gain anything by wrenching on your head bolts. What are your compression readings?

[Tones52]

Don, these were the reading on a relatively cooled down engine.  From front to back: 95, 80, 85, 75, 83, 85

 

On searching past threads related to low compression test readings, one of the check off list recommendations I gleaned was to retighten the head bolts. Something I think I can do. But I'm also not seeing evidence of a compromised head gasket either (i.e. coolant in the oil).

 

Tony

[Dave72dt]

Pump some oil into each cylinder and recheck your compression, I suspect they will go up on an engine that has 60k on a rebuild. I'd attribute your compression numbers more to mileage than gasket leaks.

[Tones52]

Thanks Dave72.

 

I put about a teaspoon of motor oil in each cylinder before I used the compression gauge and these were my readings from front to back (1 through 6):

 

120, 95, 100, 110, 96, 105.

 

So it does look like maybe it's more that the engine has mileage on it. Although, I did notice that the "O" ring on the compression gauge was broken so I replaced it before getting these readings. But I'll redo the compression test in a couple of days without adding oil to see how different those readings are from what I had posted earlier in the month.

 

I took some photos of the sparkplugs (see below) and to me most look like they're burning well but there's a couple that may indicate something else going on. Any thoughts that you or others may have on that would be appreciated by this newbie.

 

Again, so that I won't feel as badly about hijacking this thread, would there be harm in tightening my head bolts and should I do anything with them before I try so that I won't have any breakage?

 

Thanks 

 

Tony

 

Plugs 1 & 2

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Plugs 3 & 4

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Plugs 5 & 6

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[wayfarer]

Plug #5 appears to be oily, could just be carbon, the shadow on the electrode makes it hard to see. The rest look ok for an 'old' engine. The change in compression with a bit of oil suggest that the ring seal is weak. As to the head bolts, if you have a click-type torque wrench you could check the bolts against the usual settings. Although 60k miles is not a long distance how many years may have a greater influence on the bolts condition.  Perhaps, "if it ain't broke-don't fix it" applies.

[_shel_ny]

For anyone reading this. Just a reminder when doing a compression check adding oil. As has been posted here in the past, the valves are under the spark plugs. A little tube of some sorts may be needed to get the oil over to the piston and rings for a good "oiled rings" check

 

 

Edit: not saying your check was not good, or that you did not get oil to the rings

Edited October 31, 2013 by shel_ny

[Tom Skinner]

Those plugs don't look too bad. She's running a tad rich but thats OK. nobody ever burned a valve running a tad rich.

Take her out on the highway and blow those plugs out clean. Enjoy Life.