Best parts sources?

[Redmond49]

Hello,

 

I'm the new owner of an early '49 Plymouth Special Deluxe club coupe. It runs and is drivable, but needs some work. I've found Andy Bernbaum Auto Parts (www.oldmoparts.com), which seems to specialize in parts for these cars. Are there any other parts sources that stock lots of parts for the late forties mopar cars?

 

Thanks,

Tyson

[MaineP15]

I have used restoration specialties and supply, inc. with good results, as well as Bernbaum Auto Parts.

You can find stuff on the ebay and some of the harder to find stuff at swap meets.

[JerseyHarold]

Some mechanical stuff is still available at your local parts store or online at places like rockauto.com.  It doesn't hurt to try those first.

[JIPJOBXX]

I have dealed with this people in the past and there located in the area.  Nice counter guys and usally can help you out with any problems you might have.  Jon

http://hagensautoparts.com/

[Redmond49]

Cool - many thanks for the suggestions.

[GlennCraven]

Rock Auto seems to be a good source. Also, The Plymouth Doctor is out there and very well stocked in certain areas of need, but the prices seem to be on the higher end.

 

Congrats on the "new" car, by the way.

Edited October 16, 2013 by GlennCraven

[TodFitch]

Some mechanical stuff is still available at your local parts store or online at places like rockauto.com.  It doesn't hurt to try those first.

 

What he said.

 

I get all my tune up parts and most of my mechanical repair parts from my local better auto supply store. That's the one with the old guys barely visible behind the racks of paper catalogs. I like buy as much as I can through them to help keep them in business. So I even buy things like oil there even though I could get it cheaper elsewhere. In my case the better local auto supply is Bob's Auto Supply in downtown Sunnyvale which is a CarQuest affiliate.

 

But even their books and computers don't go back far enough so you either have to bring in the part to match or build up your own list of modern cross references. Thus my parts cross reference project at http://www.ply33.com/Parts/numeric

 

I only go up to 1948 but I suspect that many mechanical parts will be the same for 1949 as for 1948.

[RobertKB]

Some good suppliers advertise on the banner at the top of the page. Go to  Links under Resources and go to Suppliers. Sometimes if you do a search and put in the part you want, suppliers are often mentioned. There is a lot of stuff out there.

[Grdpa's 50 Dodge]

hate to jump into a thread with a question BUT it fits so nicely.  My 50 Dodge Coronet's moulding clips are rusted out and loosing their grip on the stainless.  Havent had a chance to look yet, but wondering IF their is a prefered supplier and best cost scenario. 

 

IF I had them in hand I would finish removing the ones that snag and ruin my pants every time I walk by since I am space challenged

 

That adds to my "cost" of returning old blue to the road,,,lol,,,and I see the tailpipe and the muffler are history,,,better start saving my aluminum can money for new ones. wink,wink!!!

[RobertKB]

hate to jump into a thread with a question BUT it fits so nicely.  My 50 Dodge Coronet's moulding clips are rusted out and loosing their grip on the stainless.  Havent had a chance to look yet, but wondering IF their is a prefered supplier and best cost scenario. 

 

IF I had them in hand I would finish removing the ones that snag and ruin my pants every time I walk by since I am space challenged

 

That adds to my "cost" of returning old blue to the road,,,lol,,,and I see the tailpipe and the muffler are history,,,better start saving my aluminum can money for new ones. wink,wink!!!

 

Restoration Specialties is your best bet. They have an online catalogue and an extensive selection of moulding clips.

[Grdpa's 50 Dodge]

I ran out of words in my vocabulary to search that site.  What in the world do you call those clips that hold the stainless to the fenders??  Any other sources appreciated!!

[_shel_ny]

I ran out of words in my vocabulary to search that site.  What in the world do you call those clips that hold the stainless to the fenders??  Any other sources appreciated!!

 

 

Try page 131 in the 2011 pdf catalog.

 

Should get you in the general area.

 

http://www.restorationspecialties.com/2011_Catalog_Web.pdf

 

 

Edit: ebay, Rock Auto, NAPA

Edited October 16, 2013 by shel_bizzy_48

[greg g]

When you get tune up parts for the distributor, get the part number off the dist as there were several variants that all used slightly different points, rotors and caps.  The best way to get the number is to pull the distributor.  This is handy as the best way to deal with changing the parts is with the dist on the bench or in a vise.  The important number starts with IAG, IAT and some other followed by some numbers.

[Grdpa's 50 Dodge]

Thanks so much Greg,,,think I can find it in there now.

 

After returning the hub puller so I get my $500. deposit back  d;~0.)  I stopped at the local little town NAPA to ask if they can order in even,,,a set of five left studs and nuts.  Front ones roll like butter,,,back ones been impact wrenched wrong way to half strip them to no turn status,,,SEZ,,,,only right hand turn AND they screw in NOT press in like they LOOK like they do.  Is that even close???Do any 49 to 56 Dodge which he was saying all screwed in???

[_shel_ny]

I stopped at the local little town NAPA to ask if they can order in even,,,a set of five left studs and nuts.  Front ones roll like butter,,,back ones been impact wrenched wrong way to half strip them to no turn status,,,

 

If you replace them.................. replace them with studs with right hand threads.  There is no reason to keep them left hand thread

 

 

EDIT: or replace the entire drum with a right thread stud drum.

Edited October 17, 2013 by shel_bizzy_48

[Redmond49]

Thanks for all the great suggestions. This thread is really useful.

 

@greg g: When I ordered a distributor from Bernbaum's, they asked for the distributor number, and when I pulled it off, the ONLY markings on it was the letter B above the infinity symbol, inside a shape similar to a three-leaf clover with no stem, and the stamped number 2. The one they sent me is the same, except it has the stamped number 4. 

[Scruffy49]

Trust me, the drive down to Puyallup to see the guys at Hagen's is worth the trip. And they pobably had your replacement dizzy on the shelf or in the storage building bins. Anytime you have a parts need (or a haunted part) run down there. They not only carry parts from 1909-current, they know how to fix the old stuff. If I was still out there instead of in west TN, they'd be doing any machine work on m 218 and 230 engines.