218 engine frowny sounds

[zephyrland]

I've developed an unusual squeal sound when driving. As I'm terrible at defining squeal vs squeak vs grind. I'll just say I think it is a bearing somewhere in the engine. It seems to be the most noticeable when I let off the accelerator.

Things I know.

My oil pressure relief valve is stuck and I want to assume oil isn't going where it belongs.(it's pushed all the way in the block, no luck removing it yet)

I replaced the belt recently and cranked it on as tight as possible so I don't think it is that. Also it sounds more metallic to me.

I dunno, fact is I need to rebuild. But I'm trying

to work out all the road kinks before I dive in. And now I'm nervous driving with

Edited October 8, 2013 by zephyrland

[halffast52]

if the belt is too tight you may have smoked the bushings in the gen.or the waterpump I would take the belt off and start it see if the noise goes away just would not run it too long with no belt if the noise goes away then you know it is one or the other

[zephyrland]

Water pump is already in really bad shape, and replacing that has been high on my list for awhile.

[greg g]

better get it looked at before frowny turns into $$$$$.

[Young Ed]

Yes the belt doesn't go as tight as possible. I do a little over what gravity and the weight of the generator do on their own. If your water pump is bad new ones are available or at least they were a couple years ago when I last needed one.

[Don Coatney]

Oil pressure relief valve stuck? Do you have any oil pressure?

[zephyrland]

Oil pressure relief valve stuck? Do you have any oil pressure?

I do have oil pressure, it goes all over the place, up and down and left and right.

 

But I still think the plunger is stuck as stuck.

[zephyrland]

Yes the belt doesn't go as tight as possible. I do a little over what gravity and the weight of the generator do on their own. If your water pump is bad new ones are available or at least they were a couple years ago when I last needed one.

The original one was loose as can be, and no issues the entire time(when engine was running water pump moved freely and generator was generating).  The new one I had in there pretty loose (where if you moved the fan the engine wouldn't turn)  now its tight enough to move the engine.

[Don Coatney]

Were it me I would not run the engine until the plunger is repaired.

[zephyrland]

Were it me I would not run the engine until the plunger is repaired.

I like the cut of your jib.  Brother made it sound like it wasn't a big deal.  I always felt funny about that.

 

I tried to remove with with a screw, no dice.  I borrowed some easy outs, but I just can't reach in there without removing the starter.

 

Also thinking this would be a good time to drop the pan and assess the engine from the down below.

[TodFitch]

The original one was loose as can be, and no issues the entire time(when engine was running water pump moved freely and generator was generating).  The new one I had in there pretty loose (where if you moved the fan the engine wouldn't turn)  now its tight enough to move the engine.

 

 

I found through years of experience (i.e. multiple water pumps) that if I have the belt tight enough to move the engine, I'd be replacing the water pump in a few thousand miles. I keep mine just tight enough that the belt does not slip on the generator pulley. That works out to basically having the weight of the generator tighten the belt before I secure the bolts.

 

Were it me I would not run the engine until the plunger is repaired.

 

Concur with Don on this. It may not easy to get out and fix. But finding a decent oil pressure gauge after you ruin the one you have because of over pressurizing it is not easy either. Not to mention which cork you might pop in the engine's oiling system leading to total failure on the road.

[zephyrland]

I really really like this forum!

[Young Ed]

And if you did pop your oil guage I have extras.

[zephyrland]

And if you did pop your oil guage I have extras.

Works like a champ!  but I've still got time to break it!

Edited October 9, 2013 by zephyrland

[zephyrland]

After another full night of trying to remove that darn plunger I have to ask if there is an alternate way of getting at it. I removed the starter for an all access pass to the general area, which helped. I then used an easy out, which grabbed, but it wouldn't budge.

 

Can I potentially get at it in any way if I take off the oil filter tube that is directly above it?  How about the pan itself?

 

I suppose my best bet is grabbing one of those flexible drill attachments and try try again. 

 

Or Dynamite...  does anybody know how to make Dynamite?

[Don Coatney]

I have successfully removed them using an easy out and or a self tapping sheet metal screw. First spray with a solvent to remove the crud then with a good penetrant oil such as Kroil. My guess is you will find a broken spring behind the plunger. Replacement springs are available from several vendors.

 

Once you get it out chuck it up in a lathe/drill press and polish it using crocus cloth or emery paper. Use a shotgun bore brush to clean the cavity it came out of.

 

 

 

 

[Drifter99]

Don , you say theres probley a broken spring behind the plunger I just took mine out yesterday and the spring came out first then the plunger? Was mine in wrong ? Thanks Robin

[Plymouthy Adams]

as the plunger is the first item inserted into the block, the spring's normal reference position would be behind it and in front of the plug...this is easily seen as you follow along with the maintenance action in your repair manual

Edited October 9, 2013 by Plymouthy Adams

[_shel_ny]

Recent thread on removal of a stubborn one:

 

http://p15-d24.com/topic/34201-oil-pressure-at-idle-65psi/?hl=plunger#entry345483

 

Are you sure the plunger is in there

[_shel_ny]

I have been fortunate with the relief valve plungers. My pinky is calibrated to specs for removal.

 

Sounds like Don is more on target with the broken spring. From past postings on this forum it seems a stuck valve(stuck in) generally results in consistently high reading problems because of that return path being blocked.

 

Edit: as I go back and read, you already have the spring out. Was it about 1 7/8" long?

Edited October 9, 2013 by shel_bizzy_48

[Don Coatney]

Don , you say theres probley a broken spring behind the plunger I just took mine out yesterday and the spring came out first then the plunger? Was mine in wrong ? Thanks Robin

I should have said behind the cap not the plunger. Yours was in correctly.

[zephyrland]

Yeah I would say the spring is nearing 2 inches in length. And it appears to be in one piece. Oil pressure spikes at high idles and I'm going to start day 3 of my attempted removal of the darn thing. Gonna really work it with that easy out tonight.