Axle Swap Grinds To A Halt

[Merle Coggins]

The u-joint changed some time during the B2 series. There's no serial number break in the parts manual, only a reference to "Lock Plate" type and "Retainer" type. Lock plate type listed for B1 & 2 B's and C's. Retainer type listed for B2, 3, & 4 B's and C's.

 

Merle

[Dodgeb4ya]

1948-early DT cleveland  Lock Plate U-joint and later 50 up 1/2 to 3/4 ton- more modern snap ring retainer type joints...

[Drifter99]

Same as mine 48 and the U joint was. Bear to get out,

[Dave72dt]

Part and parcel of making changes is acknowledging other changes may need to be made as a result.  Changing parts of the driveline should automatically assume the possibility of driveshaft modifications and the associated costs.  You end up with custom built parts that somebody has to make or assemble, not always cheap.   Having the same work performed on your daily driver would cost similar.  Apples to apples, not apples to oranges.

 

Whether anyone believes it or not, there are good parts guys out there willing to help.  Some may be unwilling to help but you'd be surprised how often the customer makes it difficult by coming in with wrong or inadequate information.  Taking the parts you want to replace or adapt with you is never a bad idea.

[Dennis_MN]

http://p15-d24.com/topic/24226-axle-update/page-2?hl=axle

 

This is a two page thread showing the same problem and then on page 2, the solution to the problem.

 

Dennis

[Scruffy49]

Ya know, Rangers, Aerostars and Toyota trucks all have that type of flanged yoke... Have to break out the tape measure, my 49 B1B is getting a 92 Ranger rear axle... If the flange's bolt pattern is the same, or the yoke flange can be drilled and tapped for the Dodge driveshaft...

 

What? They all have the same cargo rating.

[flathead]

Same as mine 48 and the U joint was. Bear to get out,

I can show you an easy way to get those out. Hey you're just down the road from me

[flathead]

Well I just got back from the driveline shop. They have never seen that size before. I have to have a new style yoke welded on, and they cannot guarantee the balance. I suppose I would have been better of looking for a 3rd member for the original. In fact that's what I may do. Now can anyone tell me which 3rd members will interchange?

[Scruffy49]

48 to 56 1/2 ton, and some cars.

 

Call these guys, they sometimes have them...http://www.budgettruckwrecking.com/

Edited August 21, 2013 by Scruffy49

[flathead]

http://p15-d24.com/topic/24226-axle-update/page-2?hl=axle

 

This is a two page thread showing the same problem and then on page 2, the solution to the problem.

 

Dennis

And almost $600 later.....thanks for the info, I think my truck will go on the back burner for now.

[Jeff Balazs]

Perhaps someone with more knowledge than me could comment on this idea........but maybe you would have an easier job if you were to swap in a later drive shaft?

I don't know what would be required to mate a later driveshaft up to an earlier transmission up at the Ebrake end......but it could be fairly simple.

Just an idea.

Jeff

[Plymouthy Adams]

I apologize as this entry is of no help to you at the minute but to others following along with intent to upgrade...this is the stuff you measure and study prior to taking the vehicle down or making that first cut or part removal..one simple looking change often leads to many changes made to get it fully fit and functional

 

Keep at it..solution is there..cost and time is now the question/issue

[flathead]

http://p15-d24.com/topic/24226-axle-update/page-2?hl=axle

 

This is a two page thread showing the same problem and then on page 2, the solution to the problem.

 

Dennis

 

Exactly where I'm at now. I've installed the rear end, connected the brakes, and have removed the yoke from the tranny. Still need to remove that nut to get the hand brake drum off. Where I went to remove the yoke, all the nuts were finger tight, and the studs they were on are loose and came right out. I am thinking of replacing those with grade 8 bolts when I go to re-assemble. I need to take all the parts to the drive line place so when they rework the shaft, they can balance it as well.

[flathead]

1948-early DT cleveland  Lock Plate U-joint and later 50 up 1/2 to 3/4 ton- more modern snap ring retainer type joints...

Mine looks like the one on the right, in the first picture, but it's a Spicer