41/53dodges Posted June 20, 2013 Report Posted June 20, 2013 (edited) Hello all, I have a chance to buy a 45? dodge one ton pickup. It hasn't run in about twenty years, but still turned over by hand and is practically rust-free! Has a long bed and a 3 speed, could have duals but doesnt. The bed: rather beat up and dented bed wood is toast no fuel tank not title (have one from a parts truck) no front bumper tires are SHOT headlights are gone gauges are broken. I know a friend with a 45' WF-32 only good for parts, he has all the bits except the fuel tank. The guy wants $1000 firm, whats the general consensus for that? if it was a normal 1/2 ton, id walk away but this is rare! sadly, id have to sell the 52' to make space and money to get it, but I wouldnt mind a new start on a truck... THE PICTURES! http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/4153dodges/library/45%20dodge%20one%20ton?sort=3&page=1 Edited June 20, 2013 by 41/53dodges Quote
Young Ed Posted June 20, 2013 Report Posted June 20, 2013 Most of the missing parts arent that hard to find. The fuel tank is available new now for about 300. Gauge glass is available new also. Is this truely setup for duals with the wider rear fenders and the running board triangle fillers? If so its quite rare. Quote
41/53dodges Posted June 20, 2013 Author Report Posted June 20, 2013 (edited) It truly is setup for duals! it lacks the triangle fillers sadly, but does have the wider fenders! EDIT: evidently it isn't wide fenders, just normal. the running boards cut off at the back of the cab Edited June 20, 2013 by 41/53dodges Quote
Apittslife Posted June 20, 2013 Report Posted June 20, 2013 Now days, $1000.00 is cheap, & since you have a Title, & have access to replacement parts that are currently missing, & is something you want, go for it, if you can afford to. I paid the same price for my pilothouse, & then blew it apart to streetrod it. I tend to dought I will recoop my money should I have to sell it, but I am building it for myself with no desire to sell it! Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 20, 2013 Report Posted June 20, 2013 its only money....you always buying projects..one more is never a problem.... Quote
1952B3b23 Posted June 20, 2013 Report Posted June 20, 2013 If you have the spare cash id say do it. -Chris Quote
41/53dodges Posted June 20, 2013 Author Report Posted June 20, 2013 thats the problem, hafta sell the 52' to make the space and money for it... Quote
pflaming Posted June 21, 2013 Report Posted June 21, 2013 IMHO the negative differenece in the quality and benefits of the two would compell me to finish the 52. It's 54" wide cab compare to the 48" in the older truck is but one benefit. However, I really do lke my turck and drive it nearly every day regardless of the distance. Quote
1952B3b23 Posted June 21, 2013 Report Posted June 21, 2013 thats the problem, hafta sell the 52' to make the space and money for it... If it was me i would compare the condition of the '52 and '45 and see how much work and money its going to take to make them road worthy. If one is in significantly better shape than the other than thats the turck that i'd probably keep. Although i do really like the body style of the pre-pilothouse trucks. -Chris Quote
pflaming Posted June 21, 2013 Report Posted June 21, 2013 I'm just beginning to rebuild a '53 Ply Vert, (see thread). I did not drive me truck til it was 'finished' which took a bit of money and a lot of time. Looking back, I could have had that truck back on the road with disc brakes and a better rear axle in six months. I am seriously considering (1) getting the engine running in whatever condiition it is in; (2) putting on disc brakes on the front; (3) a better ratio rear axle; (3) and seats. Then hot wire it, get it legal, insured and drive it as it is!. I would suggest you consider the same, then decide how much money youi want to spend on it. I drove my son's beaturiful 54 Chev truck last summer in Maine. If my 52 Dodge drove like that, I would never drive it. So before I spend a lot of money on the vert, I'm going to drive it down a freeway at 70 mph and then decide how much work i'm going to do on it. If I don't like what I have, I can put everything I spent on the car into something else, no money or time lost!!!! FWIW Quote
1952B3b23 Posted June 21, 2013 Report Posted June 21, 2013 Just curious Paul, why do you say youd never drive the '52 Dodge if it drove like your sons '54 Chevy, cause its a Chevy? Quote
pflaming Posted June 22, 2013 Report Posted June 22, 2013 The Chevy drives like a TRUCK. we are going to have the suspension checked because I think something is wrong. My Dodge steers easily, has fewer revs to turn a corner, and very little movement in the steering wheel. If I remove my hands, it tracks like a train. His wanders . . . Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 22, 2013 Report Posted June 22, 2013 (edited) wanders...maybe this is where the Nomad name originated... Edited June 22, 2013 by Plymouthy Adams 1 Quote
41/53dodges Posted June 25, 2013 Author Report Posted June 25, 2013 So my big thing with this project, how available are the brake parts for one of these trucks? or would it just be better off with another axle swap? never really dealt with a 1 ton before... Quote
ggdad1951 Posted June 25, 2013 Report Posted June 25, 2013 (edited) the biggest problem is to find good rear drums for the 1 tons Edited June 25, 2013 by ggdad1951 Quote
41/53dodges Posted June 26, 2013 Author Report Posted June 26, 2013 the biggest problem is to find good rear drums for the 1 tons what did you have to do/pay? Quote
ggdad1951 Posted June 26, 2013 Report Posted June 26, 2013 it's hard to find ones that are not shot. The ones on FEF were his "originals" and can't be turned they are at the end of life, so when they are done I have to swap. I managed to find a spare set from out East and paid about $100 a piece for them. Quote
41/53dodges Posted June 26, 2013 Author Report Posted June 26, 2013 hmmm... how about pads and cylinders? Quote
B1B Keven Posted June 26, 2013 Report Posted June 26, 2013 hmmm... how about pads and cylinders? http://hagensautoparts.com/dodge-truck/9-brake/249/ Quote
B1B Keven Posted June 26, 2013 Report Posted June 26, 2013 and of course, no pads Call them. I'm sure they can re-line your originals. Quote
41/53dodges Posted June 26, 2013 Author Report Posted June 26, 2013 true... Have to see if I even get the thing for one! then if the rear end is salvagable Quote
ggdad1951 Posted June 26, 2013 Report Posted June 26, 2013 if you can find good shoes you can get them relined. Quote
B1B Keven Posted June 26, 2013 Report Posted June 26, 2013 Hagens lists these trucks as having the same shoes: 16x2-1/2 1939 - TF28, TF35, TF36, TF37, TF38, TF39 1-1/2ton 228-6cyl 16x2-1/2, w/ Std Rear Wheels 1940 - VF20 1ton, VF30 1-1/2ton 228.1-6cyl 126.5wb, 133wb, 160wb 16x2-1/2, w/ Std Rear Wheels 1940 - VF27, VF27, VF28, VF29 3/4ton 228.1-6cyl 16x2-1/2 1942 - WF20-22 1ton, WF31-32, WFM 1-1/2ton 236.6-6cyl 126.5wb, 135-5/16wb, 160wb 16x2-1/2 1942 - WG, WGM 1-1/2ton, WH, WHM 2ton (41)241.5-6cyl, (41-42)250.6-6cyl 16x2-1/2 1946 - WF20-22 1ton, WF31-32, WFM 1-1/2ton 236.6-6cyl 126.5wb, 135-5/16wb, 160wb. 16x2-1/2 1947 - WF20-22 1ton, WF31-32, WFM 1-1/2ton 236.6-6cyl 126.5wb, 135-5/16wb, 160wb. 16x2-1/2 1954 - C1F, C1FL, C1FS 1ton, 1-1/2ton Light Duty 230-6cyl 3-1/4 129wb, 153wb 16x2-1/2 1956 - C3GL 1ton, 1-1/2ton Light Duty 230.2-6cyl 129wb, 153wb, 171wb 16x2-1/2 1956 - C3GNL 1ton, 1-1/2ton Light duty Forward Control 230.2-6cyl, 259.2-V8 108wb, 126wb Quote
41/53dodges Posted June 26, 2013 Author Report Posted June 26, 2013 Hagens lists these trucks as having the same shoes: 16x2-1/2 1939 - TF28, TF35, TF36, TF37, TF38, TF39 1-1/2ton 228-6cyl 16x2-1/2, w/ Std Rear Wheels 1940 - VF20 1ton, VF30 1-1/2ton 228.1-6cyl 126.5wb, 133wb, 160wb 16x2-1/2, w/ Std Rear Wheels 1940 - VF27, VF27, VF28, VF29 3/4ton 228.1-6cyl 16x2-1/2 1942 - WF20-22 1ton, WF31-32, WFM 1-1/2ton 236.6-6cyl 126.5wb, 135-5/16wb, 160wb 16x2-1/2 1942 - WG, WGM 1-1/2ton, WH, WHM 2ton (41)241.5-6cyl, (41-42)250.6-6cyl 16x2-1/2 1946 - WF20-22 1ton, WF31-32, WFM 1-1/2ton 236.6-6cyl 126.5wb, 135-5/16wb, 160wb. 16x2-1/2 1947 - WF20-22 1ton, WF31-32, WFM 1-1/2ton 236.6-6cyl 126.5wb, 135-5/16wb, 160wb. 16x2-1/2 1954 - C1F, C1FL, C1FS 1ton, 1-1/2ton Light Duty 230-6cyl 3-1/4 129wb, 153wb 16x2-1/2 1956 - C3GL 1ton, 1-1/2ton Light Duty 230.2-6cyl 129wb, 153wb, 171wb 16x2-1/2 1956 - C3GNL 1ton, 1-1/2ton Light duty Forward Control 230.2-6cyl, 259.2-V8 108wb, 126wb hmmm... Thats rather odd, I could swear that truck had 16" rims so how would 16" brakes even work? Quote
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