Stripped Sparkplug Repairable

[Plymouthy Adams]

thirty years ago the trick to a Ford alternator brush change was straightened out paper clip..you push the brushes into the holder, insert the wire into the holes and they held the brushes while you inserted them..bolt them in..pull the pin and hope it was not the first step to a hand grenade action

[Don Coatney]

thirty years ago the trick to a Ford alternator brush change was straightened out paper clip..you push the brushes into the holder, insert the wire into the holes and they held the brushes while you inserted them..bolt them in..pull the pin and hope it was not the first step to a hand grenade action

You refreshed my memory. I think that is exactly what I did.

[Jerry Roberts]

When I do the head swap I would like to pull the generator to clean it up and paint it. I have never messed with a generator before. Do I have to polarize it or do anything special to it before I put it back on?

 If you accidentally drop it or give it a hard jar , you might have to polarize it . But this would be determined after you put it back on the car and started the engine  . Not a big deal . 

[38plymouth]

I get my head back and had all six holes repaired. I have the old head off and I'm waiting for a head gasket so I can put the new one on. I noticed my pistons have a capital letter stamped into each one. I'm curious if anyone knows what it means. Starting from the front of the engine mine has the letters E B C C D A.

[greg g]

Werent they an 80's hairband from Sweden??? Oh sorry, that was ABBA.......... Might have a bunch of different sized overbores there. Not an uncommon way to approach things back inthe day. You might try cleaning a bit better and see if a standard overbore type marking shows up like .030 etc. Or it might be a weight indication, letting the egine builder match pistons with rods and getting them as close as possible to the same wheight per assembled set.

[Don Coatney]

What does EBCCD stand for?

 

 

Electron-Bombarded Charge-Coupled Device. Google knows everything

 

Follow this link

 

http://www.acronymfinder.com/Electron_Bombarded-Charge_Coupled-Device-(EBCCD).html

[38plymouth]

I don't see anything else on the pistons

I read a little bit online and it sounds like some engines had the letters stamped on the pistons. It said that it meant they were a little different sized so they fit the bore the best during assembly.

[38plymouth]

I have the sealed can type oil filter. I removed it to swap the head and it took all day today to drain. When I put everything back together and started it I never felt the filter get hot. I'm almost positive its plugged. Since its big and ugly and expensive to replace I'm thinking about removing it. If I do are you supposed to plug the 2 holes in the block or should I connect them with a short piece of tubing?

[Don Coatney]

Plug them. Or better yet find a by-pass filter with a replacable element and install it. There must be a lot of them out there.

 

 

 

 

[38plymouth]

I finished the head swap and just finished a teat drive. I can tell it has more power but I have a tiny bit of detonation now so I need to adjust the timing. I messed with the oil filter and I think it is still working so I decided to keep it. The head looks so nice on the engine and I'm thrilled it's finally back where it belongs. Thanks for all the tips and advice.

[Andydodge]

Those sealed canister oil filters were supposed to be a USE ONCE ONLY thing, then replaced with a NEW one..............I wouldn't reuse it even if it had been draining for a week, get a new one or one that uses the disposable element.......my 2 cents worth, oil & filters are cheap......engine rebuilds are not......as for the filter still working, yep it probably is still filtering but now that you've upset the sediment that was in a particular spot inside the filter whats to say all those nice goobies aren't now trying to find a new home back inside the engine........if it was me I'd be getting a new filter and not run the engine till one was in place.........andyd

Edited May 21, 2013 by Andydodge

[Jerry Roberts]

 Yes , as Andy says , throw that canister away . You can replace the sealed canister with an identical item if you can find one but they are rare now , so expensive . The canisters with the replaceable elements can be found on ebay , at swap meets , and at the junk yards . You will probably have to change your lines and / or fittings . 

[TodFitch]

 Yes , as Andy says , throw that canister away . You can replace the sealed canister with an identical item if you can find one but they are rare now , so expensive . The canisters with the replaceable elements can be found on ebay , at swap meets , and at the junk yards . You will probably have to change your lines and / or fittings . 

 

Roberts shows the filter in their online catalog with a similar price to the ones I've been seeing on ePay, so you can just order one from a known vendor.

 

I've got a Mopar replaceable element filter housing that was specifically designed to replace the sealed canister setup and the instructions for it show that you can use the existing plumbing. So there are some housings out there that won't need the lines and fittings changed. On the other hand, those are easy to make if need be.