1953 Plymouth Convertible Project

[pflaming]

It's time to get started. I had to have a good electrical bench first. I will make a new harness and this one must be correct, so a good work station is a must.

 

My MOA is:(1)  make a complete new harness; prepare hood, trunk lid, doghouse, and doors for primer. (2) restore the top frame parts; (3) prepare the body shell, floor, quarter panels for primer; (4) build an inner frame then lift the body off the chassis. The bulk of this is time and energy not much money involved. 

 

So, with your advice,  . . . "Here we go"!

 

Edit: Don, I will post each significant step, but not all the detail. I started to remove the harness that serves the dash. I will be reading up on this tonight in the manual. Careful disassembly will be a high priority this time. It is very obvious that this harness is much more complex then the harness in the '52 truck. 

 

I put your bench on my space saver so I could see it better and I studied it closely. Thank you, very helpful.

 

 

 http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/pflaming/slideshow/53%20Plymouth%20Restoration

 

Edit #2: Just finished color coding the wiring schematic. It's obvious the entire harness will have to be carefully extracted, cleaned and laid out in order to rebuild it. The wiring in the truck was all in open spaces, much of this wiring is 'threaded' through the body spaces which are 'hidden'. 

 

There are only eight colors, all solid, but that is misleading because a color may have different wire gauges.  The truck wiring was like writing a theme paper, this schematic is a Master's Thesis! 

 

( to be continued )

Edited May 1, 2013 by pflaming

[Don Coatney]

My advice? A good electrical bench is a must have.  Pictured below is my electrical bench. My dad made this bench from an old phonograph cabinet. I had just replaced the top on the bench the day this photo was taken.

 

I hope you keep everything you do to the car in this thread so it is easy to track.

 

 

[pflaming]

How do I remove the dimmer switch? They must have had that installed in China or they were still using child labor. That is TIGHT!  So HELP!

[Plymouthy Adams]

grunt when turning..it increases the testosterone and gives added boost...

[Young Ed]

If they are really tight you can try an impact driver. I wouldn't think you'd need one for that though. I mostly use them on the big phillips screws for door hinges latches etc. Also no need to keep editing your original post you can reply to yourself and keep going on your thread.

[Don Coatney]

When I run across a difficult job I usually talk to it using all the words my mother used to wash my mouth out with soap for saying. Works most every time and if that does noit work to fix the problem it still makes me feel better.

[CaptainGTX]

Will be watching your project progress with much interest.  My survivor 53 Dodge Coronet convertible is too good to restore and too bad not to want to.  Your decision was easier.

Rich

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

Remember....if you can't fix it with a hammer...you have an Electrical problem

[pflaming]

I'm not referring to tight screws, etc. I'm referring to the location. The main harness(s) connect to that switch. It is in a support "post" area and I cannot figure how to get it out of there. There has to be a simple way, they would not have designed a switch that could not be easily removed. 

 

All the remaining harness is now on my electrical bench. All is intact so I'm pleased with that. 

 

Ediot: Tim, I did not find a way up from the bottom. Will take a break, say a few words, get my testoserome back and look again. Do I disconnect the harness wires first then drop the switch out? 

Edited May 1, 2013 by pflaming

[Plymouthy Adams]

I have the 54 and it came out easily...you have to drop in from below the car...there is little room to even get your hand in there to test wiring if needed..best drop it out then mess with the wiring if trouble shooting also..

[DJ194950]

I'm not referring to tight screws, etc. I'm referring to the location. The main harness(s) connect to that switch. It is in a support "post" area and I cannot figure how to get it out of there. There has to be a simple way, they would not have designed a switch that could not be easily removed. 

 

All the remaining harness is now on my electrical bench. All is intact so I'm pleased with that. 

 

Ediot: Tim, I did not find a way up from the bottom. Will take a break, say a few words, get my testoserome back and look again. Do I disconnect the harness wires first then drop the switch out? 

 

On my 50 and the 51 parts car the switch was held in from the interior by screws or bolts adjacent to the button. Still was a big help to get underneath first and spray on some penetrating oil. Still hard to get to area!!  Even to rewire this switch i could only hook the wires first and then reinstall the switch.

 

Best to ya,

Doug (in Modesto)

[pflaming]

I hope I'm posting pics correctly. I removed the harness today. The tricky part was the dimmer switch. It is mounted in a frame "post". To remove it, the four input wires must be removed. I used needle nose pliers. Then two input harnesses can be removed and after that the dimmer.  All wiring is now hanging and labeled on an 8' x 4' panel. Tomorrow the restoration of each begins.

 

[url=http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/pflaming/media/Harnessremovalpics5-1-13005_zpsc94a47c0.jpg.html%5D%5BIMG%5BURL=http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/pflaming/media/Harnessremovalpics5-1-13009_zpsc674dc1f.jpg.html%5D%5B/URL%5D%5Dhttp://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w620/pflaming/Harnessremovalpics5-1-13005_zpsc94a47c0.jpg%5B/IMG][/url]

Edited May 1, 2013 by pflaming

[pflaming]

I removed the harness today. The tricky area is the dimmer switch. It is mounted in a frame 'post'. I unhooked the four input wires with a needle nose pliers which allowed me to romove those two harnesses. 

 

All harnesses are now  hanging on an 8' x 4' panel. Will start rebuilding tomorrow.

 

[url=http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/pflaming/media/Harnessremovalpics5-1-13009_zpsc674dc1f.jpg.html]

[Mark Haymond]

I used some scrap wood to prop up my 47 Plymouth dashboard for the rewiring job. With the dash at workbench height and in with good lighting I was able to route the wires comfortably. (And redo some of the sections I did wrong on my first try.)

http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/22193746_fWznm6#!i=2488850490&k=Q8frM2h

[thrashingcows]

I used some scrap wood to prop up my 47 Plymouth dashboard for the rewiring job. With the dash at workbench height and in with good lighting I was able to route the wires comfortably. (And redo some of the sections I did wrong on my first try.)

http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/22193746_fWznm6#!i=2488850490&k=Q8frM2h

 

I like that idea...very clever!  I need to ask though about that 12V motor you have pictured.  What is it for?  Heater blower motor?

[Mark Haymond]

The NAPA motor is a bolt in replacement for the Model 36 Mopar heater six volt motor, I changed to 12 volts when I did a V8 engine conversion. My research showed me that motor sizes and mounting bolt spacing and output shaft diameters have not changed much in the last sixty years for heater blower motors! It was inexpensive and was easier that buying a converter or voltage reducer for the old six volt motor.

[Don Coatney]

Thanks Mark;

 

$28.35 Now on my want list.

 

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt%3d6551022%26Ntk%3dKeyword%26Nty%3d1%26Dn%3d0%26D%3d6551022%26Dk%3d1%26Dp%3d3%26N%3d0

[pflaming]

Today I laid out the entire harness on the bench. Tomorrow I will reconnect it all before I fully remove all wrappings. When those wrappings come off, the harness takes on a whole new look. I want it all reconnected including all switches, etc.

 

This is all new to me and I find it extremely interesting. With the wrapping on, that looks good, but inside it's amazing how poor the wiring really is. Evidently the 'heat' over the years takes its toll. Nothing will go back in, new wires, new connectors, new switches. On the truck there were  three switches. On this there are possibly ten or more: glove box sw / light, door jam switches, backup lights,  . . . fun!

 

I'm trying to post individual pictures, but you can stop the press when you wish. 

 

Edited May 3, 2013 by pflaming

[pflaming]

I'm deep into building the new harness. I took pictures, the ones that really help are the ones which I painted the connections different colors. When I figure out how to post individual pics from photo bucket I'll add them.

 

The harness is 'fun' but taxing, especially when you are at my age and have 'short term memory loss'. But I'll get it.  

[pflaming]

http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/pflaming/slideshow/53%20Plymouth%20Restoration/Harness%20reassembly

 

 

I modified Mark Hammond's idea to reassemble the harness. Once I put the switches back in the dash it started to come together. It was obvious where the dash bulbs went, so I stated with the two panel bulbs and related wires, then the high beam bulb, and finally the turn signal bulb. With the switches in the dash, then one could determine by length, connector style, color match, etc where the wires belonged. I will get it reassembled tomorrow, then I'll start building the new harness.

 

I had to bead blast the dash first, so I lost half a day on that. Eye Doc on Thursday, then back on it on Friday and Saturday. The pictures should be self explanatory. There is a bit of duplication so you can pick and choose.

 

It sure would have been easier on the truck if the dash could come out. If I were to do a dash that would not come out, I would duplicate the dash with a piece of hardboard, install all gauges and switches in the same dimensions and locations and then build my new harness. 

 

(to be continued)

[Frank Elder]

http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/pflaming/slideshow/53%20Plymouth%20Restoration/Harness%20reassembly

 

 

I modified Mark Hammond's idea to reassemble the harness. Once I put the switches back in the dash it started to come together. It was obvious where the dash bulbs went, so I stated with the two panel bulbs and related wires, then the high beam bulb, and finally the turn signal bulb. With the switches in the dash, then one could determine by length, connector style, color match, etc where the wires belonged. I will get it reassembled tomorrow, then I'll start building the new harness.

 

 

 If I were to do a dash that would not come out, I would duplicate the dash with a piece of hardboard, install all gauges and switches in the same dimensions and locations and then build my new harness. 

 

 

That's a pretty slick idea Paul.