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On 8/14/2021 at 1:35 PM, John-T-53 said:

 

Ah that's right.... Cummins, Cat, got them mixed up....funk.

 

I don't know much about tool and die making but have heard that they look down at machinists.

 

Would a SS die be different than for carbon steel? One-step stamp or several for this part?

 

 

SS is "tougher" and to get the right final shape....likely a few tooling changes along the way (more $$).  The way the part is as designed this would be a progressive die set up.  If one cut corners one could make it cheaper (lose the  return on the back) but I think I'd be noticeable to those versed.

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This is probably a dumb question but I'm gonna ask it anyway :)

 

Can stainless sheet be worked cold the way tinsmiths work tin?  I've seen some amazing work done by tinsmiths so if this was a possibility it might be worth looking into.

 

 

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23 minutes ago, bkahler said:

This is probably a dumb question but I'm gonna ask it anyway :)

 

Can stainless sheet be worked cold the way tinsmiths work tin?  I've seen some amazing work done by tinsmiths so if this was a possibility it might be worth looking into.

 

 

Pure stainless is a lot harder (more brittle? I don't know) than steel, but the stainless they used on the trim pieces is also not pure.  Does anyone know what mix of stainless vs steel was used?  (I say it's not pure because pure stainless is not attracted to a magnet, whereas a magnet sticks quite well to the stainless trim on my 46 P15.)

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9 minutes ago, Eneto-55 said:

Pure stainless is a lot harder (more brittle? I don't know) than steel, but the stainless they used on the trim pieces is also not pure.  Does anyone know what mix of stainless vs steel was used?  (I say it's not pure because pure stainless is not attracted to a magnet, whereas a magnet sticks quite well to the stainless trim on my 46 P15.)

 

I'd guess 409?  Maybe 430?   Just because it's stainless doesn't GARENTEE it's not magnetic.  SS has a range that goes from NO magnetic attraction to full on <SANP> goes the magnet.  

 

Austenitic SS WILL Work harden.

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
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  • 3 weeks later...

Headed out to WIndy Hill yesterday to grab a bed frame for the project.  After re-looking at the bed I had planned to grab, I chnaged my mind as to what I was going to bring home.  The shear size, style and condition of the beds I was considering made me re-think what I was going to do,   So my friend and I wandered arround the yard and came across the bed pictured below.  I think it is an after market frame that looked to be on a Mopar frame (litterally all that was left was the bed and frame).  Gettting it loaded onto the trailer the yard man on the forklift got a little happy with his power and ended up putting a tweak in the front rail of the frame (see red oval).  Not happy about that, but too late now.  I'm kinda diggin the corner cutouts for the lights and think that will look good.  Also with the open frame all around I have good anchor points for straps.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Bonus day to work on the truck yesterday afer returning home a day early from the UP.  May as well get the MC/booster and pedals mounted!  I did have to modify the mounting on the MC/booster to tighten in to the firewall (took out 1/25" on the bracket).

 

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43 minutes ago, Lingle said:

sweet setup!  are you able to use the stock Dodge throttle cable or will you have to have one fabricated?  

 

Likley will have to fab one....that chance of the stock one being right is pretty small (plus I cut it off in tearing down the doner :P ).

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Some major surgury on the truck.  After much consideration I decided I needed to move the body forward about 1.5".  This entailed cutting off the tip front and rewelding the hinge to a new point.  Modification of the tip front frame also was done to allow for the height of the RAD. It also meant moving the cab mounts forward as well.  I also cut out a bit on the front of the frame cross member and put in a 2" angle piece to get some more room.  This SHOULD give me enough room to fit the RAD and CAC all up front where they belong.  I will have to trim the grill bars a bit as well to get things to fit.  As a side benefit, it should also center the wheel better in the fender if my math is right.  

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17 minutes ago, ggdad1951 said:

well got everything dropped back in...picture proof I got it all to fit....barely...

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Lol, Nice fog light addition ?

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  • 1 month later...
6 hours ago, bkahler said:

Mark, I'm not sure who you're sourcing your glass from.....but you might want to find another supplier, the tinting in that window is just way to dark....?

 

its a special new type of tint...."wood grain" for high security one way viewing only :P

 

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53 minutes ago, bkahler said:

 

Ha!  I bet it was expensive as well :)

 

 

 

I have so many scape wood chunks laying around....my great nephew comes and takes home loads of "nice pieces of wood".

 

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Price?  Building vehicles can get very $$$.!  ?

 

DJ

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13 hours ago, John-T-53 said:

I like the luan in lieu of the glass. Let's go with that. Just needs some conversion varnish.

 

I probably missed this, but how come you're making a child proof window? Or is it cat proof?

 

notice the suicide hinge pocket....well it's kinda in the way and I have no recourse.....it's mostly for air flow anyway.  AS longas they open!

 

11 hours ago, DJ194950 said:

Price?  Building vehicles can get very $$$.!  ?

 

DJ

 

not even tracking on this build...I just know it'll be more than I thought and les than it could be!

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8 hours ago, ggdad1951 said:

 

notice the suicide hinge pocket....well it's kinda in the way and I have no recourse.....it's mostly for air flow anyway.  AS longas they open!

 

Ah....far out. I thought that was just a beefy bottom window stop, lol!

 

Yeah, should be enough for air flow, even when a passenger lights up a Marlboro in the cab. 

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