My Offy Intake & Reds Headers Transplant

[1940plymouth]

You got a darn steady hand, the paint job on the lettering looks great

[steveplym]

Wow Mark, looks awesome!

[Mark D]

So the mailman brought me a second carburetor this week (actually two more, but only one has the right base.) Opened the box, and was astonished to find that it had never seen duty. It makes my old carb look a little beat up in comparison. Best part, I only paid $45! So I changed out the horn on the old carb with some spare parts I had in the shop so the two now match. From what I can tell in the Carter manual, these are physically the same carb, but the newer is a mid to late 50's model. I did also change out the lower throttle plate and shaft so that the linkages would match.

I purchased four stainless threaded rods and four lock nuts and installed the valve covers. Could not find 5/16" cap nuts anywhere. I will keep looking for these and change them out in the future.

Purchased four stainless 3/8"x3/4" bolts/washers and instaled the heat plate.

Fabricated two mounts for my linkage from some flat bar stock I bought at Lowes. I radius cut the ends two fit in the casting depression of the carb bases. Also bought four jamb nuts at the same store as shown in the photos. I will pick up some thin star washers to keep it all in place. Ordered most of my linkage parts on Monday and they should be here in a couple days.

This weekend I hope to drop the oil pan, clean the sludge out and replace the gasket. While I am at it I would like to replace the O-ring gasket on the oil pump. There's a small but persistent leak that won't go away with a wrench turn. Today I'm going to order a couple 30" smithy's so they're in hand when I am ready to get the car to the pipe bender.

Edited November 9, 2012 by My48Ruby

[greg g]

Try a little oven cleaner (EZ Off) on the exterior of the carb. I remember that the old dipping tanks for carbs had some kind of caustic stuff in it, lye maybe. Or make a thin paste of dishwasher soap and paint it on (just the exterior) either might etch the metal a little so try it on one of you backup pieces first.

[mrwrstory]

Isn't working on your car stuff when it's clean and on the bench just the greatest. Sure beats lyin in your back on a cold greasy floor with rust and anti-freeze drippin in your face and your knuckles bleedin......huh!

[Mark D]

I'm working in some borrowed space at the moment. It's luxurious by my standard as I don't have a garage at home. Twenty thousand square feet of empty warehouse all to myself. The part I am using measures 20'x30' and was the old receiveing dock which has an on grade entrance. It didn't have heat so I went out and bought a propane space heater last week at Home Depot. 30k BTU's and runs 14 hours on a 25lb tank. Warms the place up in no time at all, but it is a bit noisy. Only really need to run it for a half hour to take the chill out. We'll see how it does later this winter as the temps drop.

But you are correct about having a benchtop next to the car instead of a blanket in the driveway. Much better results for sure.

[Mark D]

It didnt occur to me, but I think I will try the EZ-off and a firm tooth brush to see if I can brighten it up a bit. I've also got some orange hand cleaner that has a mild abrasive that I might try as well.

Try a little oven cleaner (EZ Off) on the exterior of the carb. I remember that the old dipping tanks for carbs had some kind of caustic stuff in it, lye maybe. Or make a thin paste of dishwasher soap and paint it on (just the exterior) either might etch the metal a little so try it on one of you backup pieces first.

Edited November 9, 2012 by My48Ruby

[greg g]

While not as popular as they once were kerosene heaters are still a good bargain for temp heat. Use your porpane for a quick blast to get it warmed then the Kero stove to keep it that whay while you work. I like the radiant ones beter than the convection style, as you can aim it at your work area.

[drillmastertommy]

I've been enjoying reading all your updates regards your intake and headers, it's all looking pretty good I must say.

I just read you are looking to get some 30" smithys, has that size been recommended or was it a decision based on the sound you want?

I'm lucky enough to have an Edgy dual intake, Edgy head and Langdons cast headers on my old 218 flattie and I opted for 2x 22" smithys on a 2" stainless system. The sound they give is great, deep, mellow but not too loud, you know it's about when you throttle it but it's not antisocial.

I'm assuming the longer the mufflers, the quieter it'll be?

[hkestes41]

Try this to clean the carbs.

http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/soda_blaster/

Then this to seal them and prevent corrossion.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=652841&highlight=alodine

or Eastwood has a " carb renew " paint is silver and bronze

[T120]

Mark,

Good stuff,thanks for the updates ,been following your progress and, "hkestes41",

I gotta try that..

[drillmastertommy]

Try this to clean the carbs.

http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/soda_blaster/

I saw this tech article a few years ago and gave it a go, so long as you have the air as it suggests it works great. I'm sure the soda quality makes a difference though. First try was from a small box and all was well, after that I bought a 25kg bag and it was full of small lumps that kept blocking the nozzle.

Gives your carbs a lovely clean finish inside and out, I must have done 10 carbs this way now.

[Mark D]

All the parts arrived in the mail with the exception of the nuts which will secure the heim joints to the mounting tabs I fabricated. $66 worth from Pierce Manifolds turned out cheaper than off the shelf individually from McmasterCarr.

Dry assembled it all and hung the intake on the engine to fab the final connection to the pivot point on the head, thats when I found out the tabs I fabricated where an inch too long. So I shortened those last night and went out to and purchased 1/4" steel rod which I will use to make the final linkage connection, salvaging the factory pivot from the original rod. Also purchased a couple lock nuts to mount the heim joints.

I had good luck last night with the EZ-off on the old carb, it took a lot of the baked on gunk off. It's not an exact mach, but will suffice. I am intrigued by the soda blaster and will give that a try sometime this winter. Followed the link hkestes provided and it looks also to be very economical as well. You can see the results in the photo above.

Today I'm off to borrow a tubing bender and flare tool to finish up the gas line and re-plumb the vacuum lines.

[Mark D]

Yesterday I was able to mount everything to the block. I had to made some hardened half washer shims to make up for the difference in thicknesses in the intake and exhaust, but that was the easy part. The hard part was tightening some of those header nuts. There where two that took a whole hour.

I also created a custom pull rod which attaches to the fulcrum point on the head. It was fabricated from 1/4" CRS. Threads where turned with my cheapo tap and die kit. The threads aren't great quality, but they will do for the time being. I will likely recreate this piece in the shop at the office. The second image also shows the throttle return spring bracket I fabricated and mounted in place of the original air cleaner support bracket.

Last thing I did was to hook up the choke. Several threads advised both carbs choked where not required, but I decided to give it a try. I was able to free up enough slack under the dash to extend to the second carb. I cut the choke cable sleave with a hack saw and removed 2" to allow space for the first carbs choke to slide in line with the second.

I did more work today and will report that shortly.

Edited November 11, 2012 by My48Ruby

[Mark D]

Today I bought a tubing bender and some 5/16" steel fuel line and a bunch of brass connections. I mounted the fuel delievery system on the back side of the carbs to stay clear of the choke mechanisms. I also ran a new line from the fuel pump to the new fuel manifold.

After I completed all of this I checked everything again for tight, and reviewed every connection again. Its easy to think you tightened it all when you've been staring at it for days. Then I re-attached the battery and decided to pressurise the fuel system and check for leaks. Gave it several short bursts of the start and checked the carbs. Eureka!, there was gas in the carbs. I again checked all the joints and felt for wetness. Nothing being found I decided to give it some choke and try to start it.

After several attempts of choking and light pumps on the pedal I was able to get it to turn over, but it sputtered and died. Persitently I tried again, and yowzer, she caught and ran! BUT then the idle picked up and that engine SCREAMED! (NOTE - theres no exhaust yet!!! just open headers.) LOUD doesnt describe it well enough. I hit the key and shut down the engine.

Gave up for the day, but I am thinking that my throttle position as it relates to the new linkage geometry is incorrect. I need another set of eyes to stare at this and tell me what I've overlooked.

PS - Both carb tops are now leaking. I guess thats not a surprise.

[1941Rick]

Now the fun begins getting the throttles set so it will idle without putting a clutch spring on it.....looks good....I like your linkage

[Young Ed]

Are those compression fittings on the T for the fuel line?

[Mark D]

Are those compression fittings on the T for the fuel line?

Yes, they are. The T came with the Offy kit. The other bought at Advanced Autoparts.

[Don Coatney]

Are those compression fittings on the T for the fuel line?

I noticed that too.

Yes, they are. The T came with the Offy kit. The other bought at Advanced Autoparts.

Start over NOW! and convert to double flare fittings! Steel line only!

[moose]

Looks like in this picture, the throttle is open a bit. If you are not sure about the linkage, the best way to do it is to unhook it. Make sure the springs are bringing throttles closed. Get it to idle, then hook the rest of the linkage in, one piece at a time. Good luck Mark! You can do it!

[Mark D]

I noticed that too.

Start over NOW! and convert to double flare fittings! Steel line only!

Warning duly noted... But why? Are these compression fittings prone to failure? Also double vs. single... I thought double where only factory.

[Mark D]

Looks like in this picture, the throttle is open a bit. If you are not sure about the linkage, the best way to do it is to unhook it. Make sure the springs are bringing throttles closed. Get it to idle, then hook the rest of the linkage in, one piece at a time. Good luck Mark! You can do it!

Idle... LOL, not likely. It was roaring! I need to figure out what the low idle position is before I can start it again and i should add some exhaust too. Yowzer it was loud in that garage.

[Don Coatney]

Warning duly noted... But why? Are these compression fittings prone to failure? Also double vs. single... I thought double where only factory.

Compression fitting should not be used on any thin wall tubing subjected to vibration as they are much more likely to fail than a flare fitting. If you dont have a double flaring tool I suggest you buy a good quality tool. I bought the one pictured below in the late 1960's. I also suggest you buy some flare nut wrenches such as pictured. They work much better than open end wrenches on tubing nuts as they dont round off the flats.

Edited November 12, 2012 by Don Coatney

[Young Ed]

Don is right. I bought mine off ebay. Snap on brand. I think I have about $80 between the flare tool and the wrenches.

[Mark D]

Great - thanks for this. My birthday is in a few weeks, guess I know what to ask for now.