approaching my wits end

[Don Jordan]

I know this has been asked before and while I am not very efficient with the search I will go there next. Here's the deal:

I just put in my brand new rebuilt engine. It will not fire. I put my thumb over #1 and turned the engine until it came up on compression. Took off the dist cap and it appeared to be at 7 o'clock. No fire. I took out the plug and held it to the block. Sometimes I get a spark sometimes not.

I'm not doing something right but I'm not sure what. I did this with my other car and everything went perfect. This one is loaded with gremlins.

new points, plugs, condenser, rotor, cap.

All I want to hear is a pop. That way I know I'm at least in the ball park.

thanks

[Tom Skinner]

Don,

Maybe a loose wire somewhere. I have had this happen to me several times throughout the years. Loose at the ignition coil, ignition switch, starter selenoid.

Also one more big BIG thing - the ground. Is everything really grounding?

Star Washers will cure this they cut through paint or grim and complete the circuit. Good Luck - electric problems are real frustrating to deal with.

Take your time it will become apparent to you soon.

Tom

[Plymouthy Adams]

question one..are you sure you have the correct rotor and cap...and if unsure at least with the cap of the distributor..trun the engine till the points are open..now you can short across the contact points using the blade of the screwdriver..make sure the key is in the on position and the coil wire close to the block so to see a spark when you take the short from the points..if it won't pass this test..there is no need to spin the engine..time to trouble shoot..

[pflaming]

Inside the distributor is a short small wire which must flex whenever the insides of the distributor advances/etc. Mine looked ok, but upon further closer looking, it had a bald spot on the side and would occasionally hit the wall of the dizzy and . . . I changed that wire and solved several problems. That wire is about 1.5" long as I recall.

[Don Jordan]

Thank you for the information.

I was worried about the cap and took the dist out and it appears to be snug.

I will check the other wires. How do you know that #1 is at TDC?

I still need to check everything else for fire.

I hate electricity. Next time I'm going with steam.

[Ken Bartz]

Harbor Freight makes a neon light that is a great spark checker. The neon lights when there is a spark available. However this very thing has happened to me. I recall that the carb float was set wrong and the intake manifold was immediately flooded. Have a look down the carb and see if there is gas in there. Or take out a plug to see if it is covered with gas. No mater how much you crank the engine it will never "POP".

[Don Jordan]

Ken,

I've got a Harbor Freight near me. Do you know what the device is called and will it work with 6v?

I'm still trying to find a 6v timing light.

[Guest P15-D24]

like the attachment pic. This will tell you if you have the wiring correct and the plug is going to fire. Set the engine up for TDC on #1. Use a connect one end of the the tester to the plug wire, ground the other to the block. ( I use a jumper with alligator clips. ) Loosen the distributor lock down bolt so your can rock it back and forth. Remove the distributor cap, and observer which way you turn to close the points and which way opens the points. Put the cap back on and turn the distributor so the points are closed. Turn the ignition on. Now manually quickly turn the entire distributor in the direction to open the points. When they open you will see a flash in the tester. You can repeat as many time as you want. If the points open and no flash in the tester then you have to start working backward to find what isn't working. I would move the tester to the coil next and see if you a spark, again rocking the distributor. If you have a spark at the coil then your problem is the distributor cap, rotor or wires. If not start checking your distributor wiring. If you do get a spark then you know you are good to go with electrical. You can also use this method to static time the engine.

[Plymouthy Adams]

you do not need a 6 volt timing light..all you need is a timing light and an aux 12 volt battery to really make the light bright..the newer lights are inductive pickup and just clip on the high tension wire...I noticed tonight that Walmart carried a nice 12 volt gel cell battery about 3 x 4 x 6 in size that would be all that is needed for most accessories like a timing light, day trip with modern radio if so inclined...less than 20.00 including tax..I have a couple of these protable gels...they do come in hand for testing things..temp power when upgrading electric windows etc..

[greg g]

when you got the cap and rotor for your distributor, did you take the distributor number with to the parts store???

there are at least 3 different dist numbers fo short block mopars and probably the same for the longer ones.

These dists while similar and interchangable are not the same, and parts must be for the right dist. Bosy hieght and cap height changes across these parts and must match up in order to work properly.

Also even though you have the dist indexed, and the rotor pointing to 7 o'clock, andy your plug wires are corrrect for the firing order, a lot of use have relaized after a perioe of frustration that they are off by one tower on the cap. So double check that when the cap is on the 7 oclock positon at tdc actually feeds the wire for #1 spark plug.

[RobertKB]

When you get to Harbor Freight, and if you have deep pockets you could get one of these for $3-4. Everybody should have one of these anyway because you can never have too many tools.

Goes right in line at the end of the plug wire. Got my money's worth the first time I used it.

Now if you want to save $3-4, and stay awake while working, you can prove you have spark by holding the end of the plug wire while repeatedly turning the dist. back and forth:eek: Be sure to be well grounded to the engine, or frame

EDIT: pic is a bit furry. item # 04424

I bought one of those a little while back. Worth every penny.

[Suess]

Just a thought and I have done this numerous times.

Remove the distributor from the engine.

Disconnect the coil wire from the distributor.

Plug a spark into the coil wire

Turn the key to the run position

Make sure the spark plug is grounded

Spin the distributor with you fingers, quickly

You should have spark and a good spark at that. If you do not look at the coil or the points as a problem.

This should help you eliminate one problem.

Not sure if 6v systems had this but if it does look at your resistor this will be a ceramic square looking thing on the firewall if it is bad you will not be getting enough power to the coil.

Now to determine tdc turn the engine to what you think is tdc. If you have a engine compression tester this will be simple. Take the hose of the engine tester and remove the schrader valve (this is done easily with a paper clip,bobby pin) this is the valve that you see in tire valves.

Screw the engine tester into the spark plug opening. Hook your airline hose to the engine tester. Slowly turn the air on. If you go full bore you will rotate the engine. Once you have the air turned up put your ear to the carb and listen for leaking. Then put your ear to the tailpipe and listen for air if you hear air you know you are 180 out.

Hope this helps