Rust free 40 plymouth sedan

[40plyrod]

WOW - WOW - WOW!  I think I will discontinue posting pictures after seeing these or use these as a challenge to keep improving. The wiring is very impressive.  Nice work. 

You're too kind, Thank you.

[40plyrod]

Been catching up on some of the parts that are not quite 100% done; the odd missing bolt or wire left hanging etc. I always make a list of these things every so often and spend a day doing them and crossing them off, it's very therapeutic but makes for boring pictures. I have also finished cleaning up my radiator and installing the accessory and usb sockets in the glove box. It was also time to address the water leak through the long bolts on the exhaust manifold, because my intake sits a little lower than stock I have to completely remove it to seal those 2 long bolts. I want to make sure it's sealed right this time, I have on hand pipe dope ( a white sticky paste in a can you brush on) and high temp silicon gasket maker (the type in a caulking tube) any ideas which would be best? Or do I need something else entirely?  Thanks

[Niel Hoback]

I use Permatex #2 with success every time.

[40plyrod]

Thanks Neil, I'll get some try it out.

Edited November 4, 2014 by 40plyrod

[mrwrstory]

Silicone never worked on threads for me.  I've been using Permatex 3H Aviation type Form-a-Gasket on the recommendation of old timey and performance builder mechanics.  It's the dark brown brush on liquid that's been around forever.  I also use it as a thread locker 'tho it doesn't really lock,....more it "resists" unscrewing.

[Don Coatney]

I use Teflon tape in some applications but for the tough stuff I use this smelly stuff pictured below.

 

[40plyrod]

Pick up a tube of permatex #2 today, reminds me of a thicker version of permatex aviation form-a-gasket we used to have. 

[fstfish66]

I use Teflon tape in some applications but for the tough stuff I use this smelly stuff pictured below.

 

do you need a bigger can of  compound ?

Edited November 15, 2014 by fstfish66

[Don Coatney]

fstfish66, on 15 Nov 2014 - 01:24 AM, said:

do you need a bigger can of  compound ?

Not yet. I have had this can for over 20 years.

[40plyrod]

We have a can like that up at the farm but it's aviation form-a-gasket. It lasts us a couple of years but we must be messy buggers because after a few months you know what's in the can by what's on the outside and once you pick it up it's hard to put back down.    

 

I've started a part of the project I've been putting off. . .  the dreaded throttle linkages. I know that I have to try to make the carbs open progressively, I have way too much carb for this motor to run straight linkage even if the carbs are de-tuned (probably even too much to run progressively with de-tuned carbs truth be told) So after reading everything I could on linkage geometry and design I have set off to design and build my own linkages. . . I'm thinking there will be a lot more metal in the scrap bucket before I'm done. Here's some pictures of the linkage arms, bandsaw and file built. All rod and shafts will be SS and adjustable with heim joints when I'm finished cutting a bending and re-cutting and bending and so on and so on.

[mrwrstory]

Very tasty!  A fun project for sure.

I like geometry because you can see it!   

[40plyrod]

Progressive throttle linkage: version 9.4

 

Finally have the linkages working close to what I think I'm looking for them to do.  I have spent the last little while depleting the world's supply of 1/4" round stock and aluminum trying to make this work, this version is close, and when I recycle the left over scrap I should get enough money to finish the car.  Now to see if it'll run like this....?!? 

[mrwrstory]

Cool!  Looks like it's coming together.  Hope it works as good as it looks.   

[40plyrod]

Thanks Bill. Me too.

[desoto1939]

Ok the big question is this: So how much faster with the car run with the three carb setup with the stock motor.  ANd if it going to go so fast I would assume you have switched over to Disck brakes onthe front to help stop the car with all of the extra speed.  ALso did you redo the fronend suspension.

 

I am not picking on you please note that.  I just see alot of time and effort going into the three carbs and to make an 85-90 HP engine try to be a hotrod.  Not sure of the investment and time and costs.

 

What type of fuel economy will you get. So why not just put a v8 mopar engine inthe car or are you just trying to look nostolgic witht he appropriate speed equipment and to be period correct?

 

I am just asking and not picking on you plese take that into consideration when you reply.  remember the car isalmost 74 years old. Did you beef up the frame or anything else to make it a hotrod?

 

Rich HArtung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[40plyrod]

Thanks for you comments Rich, I have converted to disc brakes as well I have installed a T5 transmission, a 10 bolt GM rear axle and relocated the front shock mounts. I didn't put a mopar v8 in the car for the same reason I didn't put the SBC or the small early Hemi I was offered, I have always liked the flathead sixes and this car was always going to have one. I'm going for a nostalgic type custom rather than a hot rod and this manifold may not work but I've had a lot of fun building it, learnt a lot about linkage geometry and still have options if it doesn't work. I can always make adapter plates to change out the carbs for single barrel ones, I can put my block-off plates back in and run it on one 2 barrel carb and always have 2 spares with me in case of emergency, or go back to the stock setup and hang this on the shop wall and tell all sorts of stories about how old and rare it is and who raced with it. 

[40plyrod]

Been a while since an update still trying to dial in these carbs. I can get it to run on all 3 although not well (runs really well on one) but I'm not beaten yet. I have also been cut polishing some of the body and putting it back together as of now the front fenders cowl and hood are smooth and polished. I'm ready to put the hood halves together but somehow lost the reference picture I took of which way the hood divider slides on the hood from the front or back edge of the hood (one end of the divider is capped) Does anyone know whether the capped end faces the front or the back?  

[mrwrstory]

I'll check mine later this morning.  Still dark here,.....and raining, believe it or not   

[40plyrod]

Thanks Bill. You guys must be doing a "happy dance" to finally be getting some rain.

[TodFitch]

I'll check mine later this morning.  Still dark here,.....and raining, believe it or not   

 

 

Thanks Bill. You guys must be doing a "happy dance" to finally be getting some rain.

 

Unfortunately that is a cut-off low that retrograded into Central California. Which means two things:

 

1. It is not very wet so rain/snow accumulations will be small.

2. It is hitting Southern California and the southern Sierra while it is clear and sunny in the north-central and northern parts of the state. Since most of the water for all the state, including Los Angeles, comes from the north this storm is not doing much for the water supply.

 

It does, however, help the local vegetation in the areas where it is raining. So it is not a bad thing, just not as good for the drought as it could be.

[mrwrstory]

 I'm ready to put the hood halves together but somehow lost the reference picture I took of which way the hood divider slides on the hood from the front or back edge of the hood (one end of the divider is capped) Does anyone know whether the capped end faces the front or the back?  

The closed end of the stainless is toward the rear,....the cowl.

[Andydodge]

On my Oz 1940 Dodge which you can see is a Plodge.......lol......same hood as yours..........the hood hinge has the open end at the rear, facing the windscreen........now I honestly can't say whether this is correct or not, but that the way its been for a few yrs, since it was reassembled after it was painted in the late 70's........seems to work o/k, but thinking about it now I suppose the closed off end would maybe look better as you view everything from the front seat............now have I completely confused you.........lol............nice work........regards, andyd  

[40plyrod]

Thanks guys, I was leaning towards having the closed end towards the cowl, I thought it looked more finished that way, but couldn't remember how it came apart. 

[Merle Coggins]

I'm not sure how your car hoods work, but on my truck the sides slide into the center section from the rear so that once the whole assembly in installed you can't remove a section. I'm guessing the closed end of your hinge is the end that won't allow the hood side to slide through. If you had that to the rear wouldn't you be able to just slide one side off to the front with the hood assembly in place? That may not be a good thing. I would think you'd want the hood sides to slide out the back of the hinge.

 

Merle

[Andydodge]

Bill...........OOPS........so my hood hinge is backwards..........o/h well its there now.........lol..........thanks mate.....lol........andyd