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Will a 62' 413 max wedge motor fit in a 47 Plymouth


1947plymouthrodder

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I admire your resolve in this matter even when you are DEAD WRONG. Mass slowing from freeway speeds to a stop doesn't care what's pushing it because is stopping:rolleyes: I sold my last 47 Plym for $28,000 340, 5 speed, GM clip, 8.75 rear............ Find me a stocker that will bring that much. No Offense to anyone with stockers on this board.

There you go again with you "butchered" bull S. You really live under a rock, don't you? Don't EVER question my knowledge on cars!! It is not absolute and all knowing but by the complete B.S. that comes from your posts on this thread, you don't know what you are talking about at all. If you don't believe me or you just want examples, just look at the other posts on this thread. You really should have left this thread with your tail between your legs long ago. YOU ARE WRONG WRONG WRONG

Well I am certainly glad to learn all these new facts such as, putting a 375 HP engine in a car designed for a 90HP engine has no effect whatsoever on safety, braking, handling etc.

It is also good to know that a hot rodded car is worth 4X as much as a stocker. Some of my friends will be pleased. They were getting discouraged, trying to sell their cars.

I am also glad someone here has UNSURPASSED knowledge of cars and has personally rebuilt a 47 Plymouth into a $28,000 award winning hot rod. You should be able to explain to the questioner exactly how to do it. So far, not much factual information has come out but no doubt that is just an oversight. No doubt you are going to answer the original question in detail any minute now.

I am sure you can lay out exactly what he needs to do, I can tell when it comes to mechanical information you are full of it.

Edited by Rusty O'Toole
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I'm surprised! This is starting to sound like the HAMB. Let's not go there. I look forward to thoughtful advice and the sharing of positive dialog, not opinions about my intelligence. There are other forums for that,....but I, for one, am not there.:)

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Gentlemen, let us be careful least the moderator have to once again limit some of us with a six week no post penalty. We need to be civil with each other and not say things that we would not say to the person to their face.

...And to that may I add - always remember the first law of holes..

"When you find yourself in a hole,stop digging" :)

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Gentlemen, let us be careful least the moderator have to once again limit some of us with a six week no post penalty. We need to be civil with each other and not say things that we would not say to the person to their face.

Lets just say if i were a moderator a certain tool would have already been banned!;)

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  • 2 weeks later...

:eek:

Been off the net for awhile and stumbled upon my original post. Let me first give you my backround and then what I have accomplished so far. First off, my screen name is what I want to be, I have had a few classics in the past but recently picked up my dream car (A COUPE FROM THE 40'S). Everything I have learned has been by doing it my self. I have rebuilt motors, done body work, replaced convertible tops and everything in between, but never anything strictly custom like this. I am a young 34yo and mostly worked on and owned cars from the 60's (generally GM). It is pretty discouraging the way some have posted. I am not a dummy, but was looking for a general place to start.

Since my original post, I have replaced all staock bushings and pins. Installed the disc brake conversion from olddaddy and picked up the 413. The 413 is not a wedge motor as described to me but I bought it anyways with the 727 trans for $500. I am not looking to build the car to sell it. I am looking to build something fun for me and my 8 yo son to work on together.

So now I have the motor and tranny sitting on the lift in the car and have clearnace issues with the steering box. Should I A)do a R/P swap or B)is there a smaller gear box and column I can get out of a scrap yard that will work with some fab work? Which is easier and cheaper? I am on a small budget (one that trickles in slowly). I have about $1000 saved right now for the project with more to come in the future.

I apologize for the lack of response. I do wish I had money and a shop like Chip Foose though.

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I just moved the steering box up 1.5" and it clears the motor mount and doesn't block the exhaust or starter. Will this ultimately hurt the steering function and possibly be dangerous? I haven't mounted it yet, but seems to turn good when the car is parked and the box clamped to where I want to install it. Has anyone done this?

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you will probably encounter a lot of bump steer...a R&P setup could well be the fix for this situation..also center dump truck manifolds for the BB Mopar is an option..I have these on my 383 in the 41 Dodge..bit more room there but simialr issues all around..what about your oil filter ..am sure it may be encountering frame issues also due to the taper..

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A little known fact is mopar made a mount in the very early 60's that mounted off the front of the block and moved them about 2" forward of normal. Also you can make any kind of mount you need or slide the motor to the right a bit. look in speedway they have a bunch of different mounts also that could make it easy.

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Glad to see this thread back on track. It goes without saying that this is a very ambitious project. Haven't most of use been there at one time,... and learned some things as a result? Thankfully, with the internet and this forum, the process can be accelerated and perhaps a little less painful.

So bear with us young man, most of us will help where we can and relish in your progress whether it be in hard parts or knowledge. ;)

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If you can find pictures of the 55 Chrysler 300's steering system they used an idler system to solve the Hemi steering problem. It consists of a link that mounts to the front cross member with three eyes in a triangle for the tie rods and a cross steer rod from a different steering gear. You can not purchase a rebuilt from Rare Parts or Moog with out a rebuildable exchange. If you could find a picture of the assembly you could make something similar. Other Chrysler products with the hemi installed used a drag link type steering to a center link that operated the tie rods. Chrysler just mounted the steering box on top of the frame with the pitman arm moving fore and aft, look at any of the 50's Chevy cars to see an example of this system. Some where in a junk yard there is every thing that is required in a 55 Chrysler 300.

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most folks that have to devise an alternate steening will use the Heim bolts and run their shafts theough these to a frame mount..they allow some adjustment and will keep the shafts rigid in place allowing some very radical angles and such..

here is a unit I put together for the '51 Suburban with V power and R&P..

post-7-1358537020529_thumb.jpg

post-7-13585370205762_thumb.jpg

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:eek:

I am looking to build something fun for me and my 8 yo son to work on together.

I apologize for the lack of response. I do wish I had money and a shop like Chip Foose though.

Nothing better than building a car with you son. That's how the passion and the knowledge gets passed down. You don't need a huge shop to do this stuff, there is a guy on the HAMB building a P15 4 door outside with no garage and he did a frame swap. I've done a few cars in my one car garage. Just need to stay organized (which I don't do half the time).

post-6454-13585370218811_thumb.jpg

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Most of us are in your same boat, small shop and tight funds. It can be done, just keep it as a fun project and eventually you'll go out to spin wrenches and end up turning a key instead. Took a full year to cram a 455 in my friend's 40 Pontiac... and 4 more to get the car on the road.

Don't sweat a few "purists" telling you not to do what you want with your car. The first time a belt was changed it lost its "stock" status. And it isn't a rare muscle car, so there isn't really an "investment" being "ruined".

I'd swap the 413/727 out of my antique motor home into my 69 D100 in a heart beat and put the 69's 318/727 in my 49 truck, but I'm entirely too lazy to do so. Plus my 230 will get better mileage than the 318 could ever dream of (318 averages 9mpg on a great day). Have to factor that in since mine will be a mostly farmer's market truck if I ever get it done.

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That WAS with a fresh tune up, timing chain, new dizzy... Haven't driven it in months, got tired of drive one day mess with the points for two. Really need to swap in my 413/727, bad back makes it hard for me to work on the rear mount 318 anymore. Have to open the hood the full 90* and sit on the fender.

Of course, the circa 1968 horse trailer being pulled from Seattle area to Memphis area likely didn't help... neither does a 727 slush-o-matic. ;)

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Since you are going with the remote filter, remember to use #10 hose(1/2") I.D. That way you will have good oil pressure and no restrictions.

-8 is actually nominal ½", -10 is 5/8 and the fittings are huge...

Think of the '-' number in terms of "1/16" of an inch.

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