Steering Wheel Restore Chronology

[55 Fargo]

The "paste" is auto body 2 k polyester glaze, it mixes like Bondo, with a creme hardener. It sets up real quick, not like pC7, so be aware of this.

Or primer the wheel, and touch up the cracks with either PC7 or the noted glaze, then paint.

Or paint it now and don't worry about it for a while.

No gladiolas here yet, grass is greening, in the city some tulips coming up, Hostas etc, it is early here, trees barely leafing out

[Jeff Balazs]

Paul;

There is a Bondo type product that comes in a small tube and works well on minor imperfections. I believe that this is what Rockwood is referring to. You can even use it in between coats of paint.

I used JB weld on my wheel. It is not as stiff as the POR product you are using. I had to make dams with tape to do some of my repairs and fill more than once.

Spent more time waiting for it to cure.....but it worked really well. Because it is thinner I could get it to run into the fine cracks.

Whether you use glazing compound or do it the way I did.....you can get the same results. You just have to be patient. Spray a coat of finish and walk away. After it has had time to cure try rubbing it out with fine sandpaper and a scotchbrite pad ..... look closely for imperfections and go over them with glazing compound. Prep and spray again. It may take a few passes like this but you will get good results.

Hope this helps, Jeff

[55 Fargo]

Paul;

There is a Bondo type product that comes in a small tube and works well on minor imperfections. I believe that this is what Rockwood is referring to. You can even use it in between coats of paint.

I used JB weld on my wheel. It is not as stiff as the POR product you are using. I had to make dams with tape to do some of my repairs and fill more than once.

Spent more time waiting for it to cure.....but it worked really well. Because it is thinner I could get it to run into the fine cracks.

Whether you use glazing compound or do it the way I did.....you can get the same results. You just have to be patient. Spray a coat of finish and walk away. After it has had time to cure try rubbing it out with fine sandpaper and a scotchbrite pad ..... look closely for imperfections and go over them with glazing compound. Prep and spray again. It may take a few passes like this but you will get good results.

Hope this helps, Jeff

Jeff, there are 2 types of gLazes, old skool 1k out of the tube lacquer based glaze, prone to shrink, not sure how well it would do with the PC7.The 2nd type is 2k polyester type,a very fine bondo type filler.

Paul used PC7, no POR epoxy putty, not sure how similar they are.

JB weld, is thinner, and could be ued to fill the finder cracks, and to go over things again.

I truied the saran wrp to help shape the PC7, no disrespect to Claybill, but for the volume i need to do, not sure if it was the best way. I think for say 6 wide cracks on a wheel that would work well.

I still think forcing the PC7 putty into the cracks and crevices, and then allowing to set a bit, to be wiped with a rag and laquer thinner to smooth things , might be the ticket.

Really as you state, this is not a fast job, but takes time to prep and re-prep, shooting paint is the easy part....

[Jeff Balazs]

Rockwood;

Yes I think the preparation and being patient is really important .... there are probably several different products you could use and get good results.

Jeff

[pflaming]

Going shopping for that paste. The wheel looks quite good. I shot it with acrylic lacquer, one coat. I have it under a heat lamp and will let it set the reminder of the day.

Then the paste and a 2nd coat. I really appreciate the input.

Edited August 30, 2018 by pflaming

[ggdad1951]

Gonna take a drink to clear my thinking: which one, dark beer or whisky?

both...my buddy home brews a Bourbon Vanilla Porter.....SOOOO tasty!

all your comments have me scared for when I prime mine!

[Dave72dt]

You can help yourself out a bunch by scrubbing vigoruusly with a wax and grease remover, followed up by an adhesion promoter.

[55 Fargo]

Okay SW is installed back in my 55 Fargo.

The horn button was like glass, but got my foolish finger prints in it, while not quite dry. I used a sponge brush with some reducer, to smooth it, but streaked it. I will need to sand and shoot it again.

The SW is 100 % better than it was, but some crack line still showing, the hub, which had 2 chunks broken right of the back and split right up to the front, turned out great.

Here are the pics....

[pflaming]

Great wheel! I'm a day or two behind you. Will paint again today and tomorrow, then a couple coats of clear. So about Wednesday I would guess. I'll have a few hairline, personality, cracks too.

EDIT: 2nd coat. I sprayed more heavily this time, then put it under a heat lamp. I'm concerned about the final spray. With these rattle cans, on takes a lot of swipes accross the finish, each a little differnt, thus each surface a little different. Any suggestions: I wish Rockwood was closer.

This 'propeller' set-up was really helpful for me, much better than hanging it.

Edited April 15, 2012 by pflaming

[chudacko]

Guys,

You are full of info with this thread, keep it going.I'm still trying to figure out how to get the wheel off the shaft.

[pflaming]

Chudacho: For openers I watch as I read for lines of information and I cut, paste, and save them top an appropriate doc. All the information one needs is somewhere in the posts, finding the detailed question/problem can be txing. So I started this thread to document the little things, and others have responded. (1) Here is an example of a 'little thing'. I removed my wheel but did not mark where it was originally, so now what do I do? I went to the truck this noon to see if the shaft and wheel have a corresponding 'key way' and I found there is a gap in the shaft ridges but no corresponding ridge in the wheel hub to match that gap. I DO NOT KNOW, maybe it should be a 12:00 o'clock when the wheel is reinstalled. The attached pics show what I mean. (2nd), look at my shaft, I pulled a/g it without protecting it at first. The next time, I WILL NOT REMOVE the nut, only loosen it about 3/8 inch.

If you carefully read each post, you will have enough information to remove your steering wheel. On the trucks you MUST pull from the bottom of the hub, if you hit it with a hammer it will break like a cookie.

The procedure is not all that complicated: (1) soak with penetrating oil, (2) partially remove the nut, (3) apply a proper puller, (4) tighten it til it sings, (5) solidly strike the bolt with a quality hammer, ergo, it should be loose.

Now it's your turn, welcome to the club!

[pflaming]

Well, if I were really persnickity, I would have a professional put a final coat and I would rechrome the ring. But that can always be done. For now this will have to do. I kept getting these 'sand' finishes, then Rockwood taught me that that was caused by paint particles drying just before they hit the surface. So I slowed down and applied more paint; ERGO: glassy finish, EXCEPT there is always some area of the total wheel that get OVERSPRAY. So I concentrated on the front view and said enough.

I'm going to let this wheel hang and cure for at least a week.

I hope all this has not been boring or appeared to be self-serving. It was enjoyable to somewhat work side by side with Rockwood.

NOW the under carriage: axles, springs, etc.

Edited February 2, 2018 by pflaming

[55 Fargo]

Paul looks great, and 1 more task behind you.

[HanksB3B]

Beautiful Job! Now I guess I'll have to do mine sometime soon too.

Hank

[Frank Elder]

Nice Paul!

[pflaming]

Repainted horn ring: (1) chrome paint dries very slowly, (2) clear paint 'clouds' the paint. I put the wheel in the cab and the cloudy ring looked terrible, so I resanded it and repainted it. It is not pure chrome but I think you will see the difference, it shines more than the picture shows.

Edit: I did not notice til I put the last paint on that the horn rim DUPLICATES the wheel, including the beauty 'rings' on the outside rims.

Edited February 2, 2018 by pflaming

[HanksB3B]

Looks a whole heck of a lot better!

Hank

[ggdad1951]

need to attack and finish the finish for my wheel, the POR15 kit recommends an acyrilc lacquer finish, don't think that is readily available in spray can form (which is what I'd be able to do). What have you guys used?

[pflaming]

This is what I used. I found it easier to paint when placed on a dowl as shown. Then I could turn it without much contact to it. I used a screw driver. I found that the paint dried slowly so I did it outside in the sun and let it cure. I took it out three days in succession as the day progressed I turned the wheel to the sun and rotated it. THere are so many angles, I found it a bit challenging.

Edited February 2, 2018 by pflaming

[Dave72dt]

Plasticote's available in a lacquer (should be acrylic) also which should dry much faster than the enamel.

[ggdad1951]

done I think, not perfect, but as good as when it was made I'm sure, if not better. These wheels have lots of non flat surfaces, dips and odd bumps that are now smooth.

[Desotodav]

Great job Mark. Looks pretty near NOS to me!

Desotodav

[HanksB3B]

Looks Great! What product did you use?

Thanks Mark,

Hank

[ggdad1951]

thanks guys.

I used the POR15 wheel restoration kit and then used an acrylic lacquer to finish.

[DollyDodge]

Napa has some acrylic laquers that worked well for me. I don't have a picture yet of the painted steering wheel, but here are some of the process. I think I posted some of these before.